Time for ball joints and more?

[Jim Ross]

At 150K miles, my shop says it is time for upper ball joints. I plan to have all 4 replaced and while the truck is in the shop, I am thinking it would be a good time to replace/add other items; a steering box stabilizer, Borgeson steering shaft, Synergy adjustable track bar kit, and a Synergy HD Steering kit (T-style), new Bilstein steering damper.
Am I missing anything or am I wasting money on any of the items listed? My truck is an early '04, 3500 SRW, 4X4.
Thanks for all info.

 

[jgillott]

There is nothing wrong with the parts that you listed. However, unless you are having issues with those, I think I would just do the ball joints and be done with it until another issue occurs.

 

[blizzard]

Might as well do axle u joints at the same time. But I agree with jgillott that I wouldn't install anything else unless you were having problems.

 

[Jim Ross]

I'm not having any issues...thankfully, I have never experienced the "death wobble" that so many seem to have had.
I just figured that if the upper ball joints are worn, then the lowers can't be far behind. Ditto with the drag link, steering damper and other "wear items".
I had both the DSS and the Borgeson shaft on my '01 truck and liked them.

 

[Wayne M.]

To do ball joints, the hubs have to come apart. Might want to really scrutinize those.

 

[cerberusiam]

The steering shaft is much better on the 2rd gens, it doesn't really need replaced unless it is worn.

The DSS is not a real factor unless you are running some big tires, on the normal 32-34" tires it really adds nothing unless you have obvious issues. Even then I would look at replacing the steering box rather than use a DSS.

Track bar is your choice if there is movement. If I had it to do over I would opt for the BD adjustable track bar, or, if you don't have a lift OE style. The heim ends are a bear to adjust and the poly bushings tend to add more flew than the OE rubber.

The t-type steering is better but not that great, the y-type actually lasted longer and performed better than the t-type on the drag link. Will depend on usage and configuration of your truck but sometimes you can end up with more issues than you started with.

Ball joints are a hot topic, if you want to do it once and then only rebuild you are looking at Carli or DynaTrac. The Moogs are not adequate and the only other moderately priced option has disappeared. You might as well pony up now and call it good.

 

[Wayne M.]

I agree. I'm not happy with Moog. The OE lasted longer.

 

[Jim Ross]

Agreed on the ball joints. After reading many reviews, it is sad to hear how Moog quality has gone away...they used to be really good parts.
I will likely go with DynaTrac or Carli.
Appreciate the comments on the T-type steering vs the Y-type. I am thinking the adjustable track bar would be a good investment. My truck is not lifted and the tires are the stock size.
As far as the hubs go....are there any better choices than oem if I need to replace those? I have thought about going with a free-hub conversion, but I don't think I would benefit enough from them to justify the cost; I like the idea of locking hubs, but at $2K for most of the kits, I have a hard time justifying them for my use.

 

[Wayne M.]

The OE hub mfr was SKF, and you should use them or I guess Timken. You can't do better than that. I'm not aware of an improvement between that and one of the free spin kits. IMHO, a good investment.

 

[Ozymandias]

Why an adjustable Trackbar on a non lifted vehicle?

 

[Jim Ross]

Just thinking it would make alignments easier plus the bushings in the original are likely pretty well worn by now.

 

[cerberusiam]

You won't need to adjust the track bar on an alignment, they are set based on suspension height. Not trying to talk you out of a better piece but if you are stock height and plan to stay that way a stock replacement bar may give you better results.

 

[Jim Ross]

Thanks for the education! As usual, the TDR folks have saved me time and $$. Now,...if I could just make up my mind on which ball joints to buy. I'm torn between Carli and DynaTrac.

 

[ranger 393]

At 150K miles, my shop says it is time for upper ball joints. I plan to have all 4 replaced and while the truck is in the shop, I am thinking it would be a good time to replace/add other items; a steering box stabilizer, Borgeson steering shaft, Synergy adjustable track bar kit, and a Synergy HD Steering kit (T-style), new Bilstein steering damper.
Am I missing anything or am I wasting money on any of the items listed? My truck is an early '04, 3500 SRW, 4X4.
Thanks for all info.

I just replaced my ball joints, trackbar and steering stabilizer with carli, I replaced my steering linkage with synergy. I also replaced wheel bearings and hubs and front axle universal joints. I figured if I had to take it apart that far I might as well replace it all.

 

[Jim Ross]

That's what I keep thinking about, too. I don't want to go to the expense of doing the ball joints and then possibly have to do the other stuff in the near future.

 

[cerberusiam]

It is pretty easy to do axles joints and wheel bearings aside from ball joints. If you have obvious issues by all means replace them, but, if they are good you may be better off running what you have and not disturbing things. Adding a grease zerk to the hubs would be a worthwhile venture, or, just greasing them should add miles. Track bar and suspension are easily done without disturbing anything else. The BJ's are the worst as it requires so much dis-assembly but even they are not bad, an hour or so per side will do the job.

 

[photowrite]

I just replaced my ball joints, trackbar and steering stabilizer with carli, I replaced my steering linkage with synergy. I also replaced wheel bearings and hubs and front axle universal joints. I figured if I had to take it apart that far I might as well replace it all.

That's what I keep thinking about, too. I don't want to go to the expense of doing the ball joints and then possibly have to do the other stuff in the near future.

My thinking is similar... when I have a higher mileage truck I would rather replace most/all the (likely or soon to be) worn out parts and start over with a new(er) driving truck.

 

[Joseph Donnelly]

On my early 2004, everything was still good at 180k except for the hubs which needed to be replaced at 120k. Some owners like to pack them with grease occasionally, through the sensor hole. After disassembling one, I did not see a real advantage to doing so and discussed the issue back then in my column. In your case, I think I would replace the hubs because thy can be bad enough to ruin a set of front tires without seeming bad otherwise. Check the front axle shaft u-joints and possibly replace them.

 

[Jim Ross]

Thanks, Joe.

 

[ranger 393]

My thinking is similar... when I have a higher mileage truck I would rather replace most/all the (likely or soon to be) worn out parts and start over with a new(er) driving truck.

That was my thinking as well ( right or wrong), I knew everything under there had been there since it was new, and it has 112, 000 on it why not replace it all and be done with it. I feel better about it now knowing it's done and hopefully will be good for a long time to come.