EASY! Cummins 6.7 2013 and up oil change

[Cummins12V98]

Genos garage oil filter cap off toolView attachment 95437

I watched the video on using the cap. They sure did not show him try to get the filter screwed on. Not worth the money or frustration to ME. Oil needs to drain, it only takes a few minutes to remove the air intake as I described at the beginning of this post. Filter on and off easily no mess.

 

[Cummins2014]

I watched the video on using the cap. They sure did not show him try to get the filter screwed on. Not worth the money or frustration to ME. Oil needs to drain, it only takes a few minutes to remove the air intake as I described at the beginning of this post. Filter on and off easily no mess.

Did I miss something on the video ? He dropped the filter, kept it straight. Screwed on the cap ,tipped it sideways ,and removed thru the fender well. Filled the new filter with oil screwed on the cap, put it in sideways thru the fender well , put it up straight, and removed the cap. Pushed it up ,and screwed it back in. Looked pretty straight forward to me . You may not want to spend the 29.95 on the cap, but the frustration part I totally missed, and I didn't see the mess. I am not sure what you mean not showing him try to get the filter screwed on ???

It looked to me like another good alternative if one wants to invest in the cap. My first oil change was done thru the fender other then trying to get a plastic bag over, and ended up with some spilled oil it was an easy removal , and replacement. I too went your route on my other oil changes, ONLY because of the mess. This cap is sure worth consideration.

Up until I bought this Ram I was used to a filter actually being in a place to be able to remove without having to remove bolts ,and parts off the engine to accomplish the task. IMO at best its still a PITA.

 

[SnoKing]

On my 2001.5 I remove the intake hose between the air box and turbo for 14 years. Took a few minutes each way. The 2015 took a like more time to remove the intake tubes, however getting the gorilla installed first filter off made in worth it. I will continue to do it from the top. I use a strap wrench to do it. Snoking

 

[Cummins12V98]

Pushed it up ,and screwed it back in."

The video I watched showed him remove the cap then attempted to start the filter. At that time they stopped the video and then started it back up after it was screwed on. One handed thru a small hole trying to balance a filter that's been pre filtered and trying to screw it on, no thanks!

Hey I have no problem spending money if it's worth it to ME, this device is NOT.

 

[Harleyrat]

Does the oil life meter reset itself. I have another question when I bought my new 2015 dually my oil life was 15k I took it to the dealership and now my oil life is 3k. Do they come from the factory with synthetic.

 

[SnoKing]

Yes, they come with synthetic OEM, because they do not know where they are going to be delivered (warm/cold area). Dealer most likely did a flash to your computers and screwed up our oil life indication. You have to reset it if you change the oil yourself.

On edit: I saw on my 2015 Laramie that both the oil and filter can be reset in the 7" EVIC by holding the right arrow key and following the instructions like below. SNOKING

To reset the oil change indicator system (after
performing the scheduled maintenance) refer to the following
procedure.
Vehicles Equipped With Keyless Enter-N-Go™
1. Without pressing the brake pedal, press the ENGINE
START/STOP button and cycle the ignition to the
ON/ RUN position (Do not start the engine.)
2. Fully depress the accelerator pedal, slowly, three times
within 10 seconds.
3. Without pressing the brake pedal, press the ENGINE
START/STOP button once to return the ignition to the
OFF/LOCK position.

Vehicles Not Equipped With Keyless Enter-N-Go™
1. Turn the ignition switch to the ON/RUN position (Do
not start the engine.)
2. Fully depress the accelerator pedal, slowly, three times
within 10 seconds.
3. Turn the ignition switch to the OFF/LOCK position.
NOTE: If the indicator message illuminates when you
start the vehicle, the oil change indicator system did not
reset. If necessary, repeat this procedure.

 

[SnoKing]

Here is some info on reset the fuel filter life.

"Quote Originally Posted by JLandry View Post
According to the Factory Service Manual, the reset procedure is supposed to be:

Vehicle in RUN with engine OFF (no RPM)
Hold the right arrow (3) down to reset the monitor.

John L.
3. A pop-up window with the word "cancell" under an up arrow and above a down arrow will appear on the EVIC display.
4. Push the down arrow on the keypad. "OK" will replace "cancell" in the pop-up window.
5. Push the right arrow to confirm the reset. After a short delay, the fuel filter life will reset to 100%.

Took me a week to figure this out. J Dean"

 

[Cummins12V98]

Harleyrat it would help if you filled in your signature.

You need to reset the "meter" yourself after changing oil. How many miles are on your truck now? Did the dealer change the oil? Yes 5-40 synthetic comes from the factory. 15-40 is recommended above 0 degrees I believe.

 

[Cummins2014]

Pushed it up ,and screwed it back in."

The video I watched showed him remove the cap then attempted to start the filter. At that time they stopped the video and then started it back up after it was screwed on. One handed thru a small hole trying to balance a filter that's been pre filtered and trying to screw it on, no thanks!

Hey I have no problem spending money if it's worth it to ME, this device is NOT.

You ,and I obviously watched two different videos. I watched the one from Genos's Garage 1:46 long. the only break in that video was between taking it out ,and installing the new filter. The break in the video was showing the filter full of oil ,and putting on the cap. No stopping whatsoever in installing it.

All I am saying is IMO its a great alternative to taking bolts ,and parts off an engine to change the filter. I have done it both ways, and the only reason I went to your type of method is the mess I made taking it out from the fender well . If I would known about the cap, I would of never went up inside the engine ,and having to take parts off. I found it much easier taking it out thru the fender well other then the mess I had to clean up. That cap sure solves that.

What would be great is a video showing thru the engine, removing the intake tube, reaching down in there tightening up the clamp on the turbo after the filter, and especially leaning over the fender ,and installing that filter full of oil. I have done it three times, and I have a pretty good idea how it goes . I would sure like to see a NON STOP video of it. Maybe I'm doing it all wrong, or its getting downplayed just a touch . IMO its getting downplayed.

 

[Cummins12V98]

Bottom line everyone needs to what works for them.

 

[Cummins2014]

Bottom line everyone needs to what works for them.

You got that right.

 

[jacquemo]

I wish I had read this just 2 days sooner. Would have saved me from having to pressure was the driveway after I changed the oil on my "13" 3500. Great post sure to use the info next chg.

After reading about all the horror stories about how hard and messy changing the oil on a 13 and newer 6.7 Cummins was I used all the info I gleaned from everyone and changed oil today for the first time at 2,900 miles on my 15 RAM Dually. Last night I looked over the conditions and came up with a game plan.

First I placed a milk bucket under the drain pan and used a 1/2" ratchet with a 1/2 to 3/8 reducer. Makes it easy to break loose the drain plug. I wore a glove on my left hand and spun the drain plug loose and removed it allowing the oil to drain into the bucket. NO MESS AT ALL!
View attachment 92114


This is the trick! Remove the bolt in the pic with a 10MM socket.
View attachment 92115


I sprayed AMZ/OIL MP to help loosen the hose then I slid back the clamp and easily slid off the hose.

View attachment 92116


Then I loosened the intake tube at each end with a 5/16 socket and removed the tube. Now the oil filter is easily accessible.
View attachment 92117View attachment 92118





I removed the filter with a large jaw type filter wrench. Yes the Cummins "GORILLA" was working that day the engine was assembled!
View attachment 92119



I reached thru the fender and slipped the freezer bag over the filter, from above I spun off the filter and lifted it up with out spilling a drop.
View attachment 92120



Then I filled the filter installed from above and re installed the air intake.

Pic of tools used.
View attachment 92121View attachment 92122

 

[Cummins12V98]

I will be timing my self very soon when I do my next oil change. I will have tools ready, pull drain plug, remove air intake and oil filter and replace filter and intake. Then let the oil keep draining for a few hours or even overnight.

 

[Cummins2014]

I will be timing my self very soon when I do my next oil change. I will have tools ready, pull drain plug, remove air intake and oil filter and replace filter and intake. Then let the oil keep draining for a few hours or even overnight.

I don't think changing the oil is a contest, but as I said before, I sure would like to see a real time video of the way you advocate. I see no purpose in one timing himself . I take my time, I'm not in any rush.

It would be very interesting to watch an entire oil change coming in from the top. Seeing how you love to post pictures of your things, I can see a video in your future .

 

[SnoKing]

I watched the Geno's video. Looked like he left the gasket dry??? I always have dipped my finger in the oil and ran it around the gasket.

They left out the part on loosening the filter for removal through the finder well. Someone have details on that?

SNOKING

 

[Cummins2014]

I watched the Geno's video. Looked like he left the gasket dry??? I always have dipped my finger in the oil and ran it around the gasket.

They left out the part on loosening the filter for removal through the finder well. Someone have details on that?

SNOKING

I used a round strap wrench thats 4" in diameter when opened , and has a 5" handle . Our filters are 3*5/8 in diameter. It works well thru the fender well.. As I said before I did it that way the first time ,and other then the mess IMO is was much easier then pulling parts off the engine.. Now with the filter cap available I will go back doing it thru thru the fender .

 

[Cummins12V98]

I don't think changing the oil is a contest, but as I said before, I sure would like to see a real time video of the way you advocate. I see no purpose in one timing himself . I take my time, I'm not in any rush.

It would be very interesting to watch an entire oil change coming in from the top. Seeing how you love to post pictures of your things, I can see a video in your future .

If I knew how to post a vid I would. Only reason I was going to time my self is some say it takes too long to do what I suggest.

Everyone should do what they want, the fact is doing what I suggested is very easy and there is no reason for spilling a drop of oil. I just don't see having a pre filled filter with a cap on it then placing it inside the fender well and then removing the filter cap then one handed screwing the filter on being very easy at all and with out spilling a drop.

 

[Cummins2014]

If I knew how to post a vid I would. Only reason I was going to time my self is some say it takes too long to do what I suggest.

Everyone should do what they want, the fact is doing what I suggested is very easy and there is no reason for spilling a drop of oil. I just don't see having a pre filled filter with a cap on it then placing it inside the fender well and then removing the filter cap then one handed screwing the filter on being very easy at all and with out spilling a drop.

I decided I won't buy a cap, but a friend will machine me one for a six pack. I have done it both ways ( The filter that is ) and found other then the mess that I mentioned before it was not an issue. I will report back on the cap usage. I have to say I DO NOT enjoy leaning over that fender . If this cap deal is not a big deal, thats the way I will go

 

[Cummins12V98]

I did my change yesterday. I did not allow for the oil filter to back drain. I WILL let it cool down next time since I did get a bit of spillage even with the bag.

 

[tony1461571]

After reading about all the horror stories about how hard and messy changing the oil on a 13 and newer 6.7 Cummins was I used all the info I gleaned from everyone and changed oil today for the first time at 2,900 miles on my 15 RAM Dually. Last night I looked over the conditions and came up with a game plan.

First I placed a milk bucket under the drain pan and used a 1/2" ratchet with a 1/2 to 3/8 reducer. Makes it easy to break loose the drain plug. I wore a glove on my left hand and spun the drain plug loose and removed it allowing the oil to drain into the bucket. NO MESS AT ALL!
View attachment 92114


This is the trick! Remove the bolt in the pic with a 10MM socket.
View attachment 92115


I sprayed AMZ/OIL MP to help loosen the hose then I slid back the clamp and easily slid off the hose.

View attachment 92116


Then I loosened the intake tube at each end with a 5/16 socket and removed the tube. Now the oil filter is easily accessible.
View attachment 92117View attachment 92118





I removed the filter with a large jaw type filter wrench. Yes the Cummins "GORILLA" was working that day the engine was assembled!
View attachment 92119



I reached thru the fender and slipped the freezer bag over the filter, from above I spun off the filter and lifted it up with out spilling a drop.
View attachment 92120



Then I filled the filter installed from above and re installed the air intake.

Pic of tools used.
View attachment 92121View attachment 92122

You used the Amsoil MP to help get the tube off. When I ordered my oil I forgot to get a can of the MP. Will some wd40 work ok do you think.