Battery Saving Mode

[LandShark]

Warming up the truck this morning. Turned on the exhaust brake. Pressed the cruise control several times with nothing happening. Pressed cruise control again and "Battery Saving Mode" showed up on the EVIC. Pressed cruise control several more times and the Battery Saving Mode went away and the cruise control symbol finally came on the EVIC and I could do the fast idle. Any one know what the Battery Saving message is all about?

 

[EDankievitch]

I got this same message when my Alt burned up..... I don't know if you'r truck is partof the 220 Amp Alt recall but it's worth looking in to.

 

[LandShark]

I believe I have the stock alternator. No outstanding recalls.

 

[Manchester]

My 2013 has been at the dealer for almost a month now trying to solve the Battery Saver Mode issue. Comes on every time its cold and wont go out.

To date they have replaced both batteries, the alternator harness and the grid heater with no luck.

IBS (Intelligent Battery Sensor) was replaced last winter when the truck was having the same issue.

 

[gsbrockman]

Warming up the truck this morning. Turned on the exhaust brake. Pressed the cruise control several times with nothing happening. Pressed cruise control again and "Battery Saving Mode" showed up on the EVIC. Pressed cruise control several more times and the Battery Saving Mode went away and the cruise control symbol finally came on the EVIC and I could do the fast idle. Any one know what the Battery Saving message is all about?

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[kthaxton]

That's interesting, I hate to change the subject but....do our trucks come with AGM batteries? I have never looked under the insulation.

 

[Newsa]

That's interesting, I hate to change the subject but....do our trucks come with AGM batteries? I have never looked under the insulation.

Yeah, AGM is the only option, I'm afraid.

Gone are the days of 6-10 year battery life.

https://www.turbodieselregister.com/threads/244707-8-1-2-year-Battery-life?p=2368095#post2368095

 

[kthaxton]

Yeah, AGM is the only option, I'm afraid.

I think that's great!

Gone are the days of 6-10 year battery life.

Really? curious what you are basing this on? My experience is that AGM's have lasted me much longer than typical wet acid batteries.

Up until two years ago, I lived in the mountains for about 19 years (about 7600 ft elevation). It would get very cold obviously, and dealt with washboarded roads almost daily, also did lots of backcountry off-roading (read: tough on batteries). I started to find that I consistently got only about 2-years life out of typical wet acid batteries on two different trucks. I then started using Optima's and got from about 7 years out of one and I believe I was approaching 10 year on another before I sold it. The others were somewhere within that range. They became the only batteries I would buy. For my 2015.....I will wait and see since my conditions are much easier on batteries now.

 

[Newsa]

I think that's great!



Really? curious what you are basing this on? My experience is that AGM's have lasted me much longer than typical wet acid batteries.

Up until two years ago, I lived in the mountains for about 19 years (about 7600 ft elevation). It would get very cold obviously, and dealt with washboarded roads almost daily, also did lots of backcountry off-roading (read: tough on batteries). I started to find that I consistently got only about 2-years life out of typical wet acid batteries on two different trucks. I then started using Optima's and got from about 7 years out of one and I believe I was approaching 10 year on another before I sold it. The others were somewhere within that range. They became the only batteries I would buy. For my 2015.....I will wait and see since my conditions are much easier on batteries now.

Basing it on the link that I posted in the same response. See #7 above. I am under the impression/assumption that Ram used to use very high quality OEM batteries. AGM batteries are supposed to last longer than wet acid batteries. But it appears the AGM batteries are also very delicate. So, I am not convinced they will last longer than a high quality lead acid battery.

 

[kthaxton]

I read it, but It was specific to good results of using the factory wet acid batteries and nothing negative about AGM's.

AGM's are certainly not "delicate", they are more.....I don't know, robust or resilient? Their ability to withstand most abuses are why they became so popular. They are indeed somewhat sensitive to over-charging conditions, but in my usage in a 2000 Dodge 1500 and an 86 RamCharger (with a very basic charging system), I never had an issue.

Like I said above, in my experience, they have lasted 3-5 times longer than quality, wet cell batteries, certainly not delicate.

 

[Newsa]

I read it, but It was specific to good results of using the factory wet acid batteries and nothing negative about AGM's.

AGM's are certainly not "delicate", they are more.....I don't know, robust or resilient? Their ability to withstand most abuses are why they became so popular. They are indeed somewhat sensitive to over-charging conditions, but in my usage in a 2000 Dodge 1500 and an 86 RamCharger (with a very basic charging system), I never had an issue.

Like I said above, in my experience, they have lasted 3-5 times longer than quality, wet cell batteries, certainly not delicate.

Ok. I stand corrected. I don't have experience with them. But it sounds like the Ram charging system may be overcharging them????? Especially with the 220 amp alternator recall situation. I'd be happy with OEM batteries lasting 6+ years.

 

[kthaxton]

But it sounds like the Ram charging system may be overcharging them????? Especially with the 220 amp alternator recall situation.

I cannot conclude that based on what is in this thread. Further, with the little reading I have done about the alternator recall, it does not appear overcharging is the issue.

I cannot tell where you are getting the impression that there is an issue with AGM batteries. Am I missing something?

 

[Newsa]

Some who have had the alternator burn up (overheat and destroy wiring) have said that "it also took out both batteries." No forensic evidence showed overcharging, but I'm assuming the quickest way to burn up wiring, & destroy agm batteries (battery on opposite side of truck) is high amperage. Then again, I am not an electrician. In GSBrockman's recent 3 year update on his 2014, he says both his batteries (not sure if both were completely dead & died at the same time) 3 years into use. 3 years does not sound like extended life. It may be too early to determine if Ram has gone to a lower quality OEM battery, Or if there is a problem with the charging system that could cause shorter battery life. I haven't had a problem with mine yet. But would love to get another 3-5 years out of them.

 

[kthaxton]

Some who have had the alternator burn up (overheat and destroy wiring) have said that "it also took out both batteries." No forensic evidence showed overcharging, but I'm assuming the quickest way to burn up wiring, & destroy agm batteries (battery on opposite side of truck) is high amperage. Then again, I am not an electrician.

Based on the little reading I've done of the alternator issue, the alternator failures are likely to kill any battery if there is a direct short to ground within the alternator, whether it was a field circuit short or a main output short, either one would likely take out any battery under certain similar circumstances.

On a side note, "overcharging" is the result of too much voltage, not too much amperage.

In GSBrockman's recent 3 year update on his 2014, he says both his batteries (not sure if both were completely dead & died at the same time) 3 years into use. 3 years does not sound like extended life. It may be too early to determine if Ram has gone to a lower quality OEM battery, Or if there is a problem with the charging system that could cause shorter battery life. I haven't had a problem with mine yet. But would love to get another 3-5 years out of them.

This could be anyone's guess, could be a number of causes or perhaps these AGM's are not top quality.....but I do know that he puts a lot more miles on his truck than us mere mortals. That could be a factor. Perhaps some of the trailers he transports have a slow continuous draw when parked overnight in the hotel parking lots? Just pulling stuff out of my you-know-what here.

Anyway, the point is, all things considered, quality AGMs take abuse (and have other advantages) much better than quality wet cell batteries. That is why they were developed.

 

[sag2]

This should give you a little more information on the message.

The BCM uses On-Board Diagnostics (OBD) to monitor all of the systems and circuits it controls, then sets active and stored Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC) for any monitored system faults it detects. The BCM will also send electronic message requests to the Instrument Cluster (IC) (also known as the Instrument Panel Cluster/IPC) for the display of certain textual warning messages related to some detected system conditions or faults.
The hard wired inputs and outputs of the BCM may be diagnosed using conventional diagnostic tools and procedures. Refer to the appropriate wiring information. However, conventional diagnostic methods will not prove conclusive in the diagnosis of the BCM electronic controls or the communication between modules and other devices that provide some features of the BCM-controlled systems. The most reliable, efficient and accurate means to diagnose the BCM or the electronic controls and communication related to BCM-controlled systems operation requires the use of a diagnostic scan tool. Refer to the appropriate diagnostic information.

NOTE:

There are no serviceable fuses or relays on this BCM.

[h=3]Battery Saver Mode/Battery Saver On Message — If Equipped[/h]Electrical Load Reduction Actions
This vehicle is equipped with an Intelligent Battery Sensor (IBS) to perform additional monitoring of the electrical system and status of the vehicle battery.
In cases when the IBS detects charging system failure, or the vehicle battery conditions are deteriorating, an electrical load reduction actions will take place to extend the driving time and distance of the vehicle. This is done by reducing power to or turning off non-essential electrical loads.
Load reduction is only active when the engine is running. It will display a message if there is a risk of battery depletion to the point where the vehicle may stall due to lack of electrical supply, or will not restart after the current drive cycle.
When load reduction is activated, the message “Battery Saver On” or “Battery Saver Mode” will appear in the Electronic Vehicle Information Center (EVIC) or Driver Information Display (DID).
These messages indicate the vehicle battery has a low state of charge and continues to lose electrical charge at a rate that the charging system cannot sustain.

NOTE:
[h=4][/h]

• The charging system is independent from load reduction. The charging system performs a diagnostic on the charging system continuously.
• If the Charging System Light is on it may indicate a problem with the charging system.

The electrical loads that may be switched off (if equipped), and vehicle functions which can be effected by load reduction:
[h=4][/h]

• Heated Seat/Vented Seats/Heated Wheel
• Heated/Cooled Cup Holders
• Rear Defroster And Heated Mirrors
• HVAC System
• 115V AC Power Inverter System
• Audio and Telematics System

Loss of the battery charge may indicate one or more of the following:
[h=4][/h]

• The charging system cannot deliver enough electrical power to the vehicle system because the electrical loads are larger than the capability of charging system. The charging system is still functioning properly.
• Turning on all possible vehicle electrical loads (e.g. HVAC to max settings, exterior and interior lights, overloaded power outlets +12V, 115V AC, USB ports) during certain driving conditions (city driving, towing, frequent stopping).
• Installing options like additional lights, up-fitters, audio systems, alarms and similar devices.
• Unusual driving cycles (short trips separated by long parking periods).
• The battery aging.
• The vehicle was parking for extended period of time (weeks, months).
• The battery was recently replaced and was not charged completely.
• The battery was discharged by an electrical load left on when the vehicle is parked.
• The battery was used during parking time to supply radio, lights, chargers, +12V portable appliances like vacuum cleaner’s, game consoles and similar devices.

What to do when the electrical load reduction actions message is present (“Battery Saver On” or “Battery Saver Mode”) - During trip, reduce power to unnecessary loads if possible:
[h=4][/h]

• Turn off redundant lights (interior or exterior)
• Check what may be plugged in to power outlets +12V, 115V AC, USB ports
• Check HVAC settings (blower, temperature)
• Check the audio settings (volume)

After trip:[h=4][/h]

• Check if any aftermarket equipment was installed (additional lights, up-fitters, audio systems, alarms) and review specifications if any (load and Ignition Off Draw currents).
• Evaluate the latest driving cycles (distance, driving time and parking time).
• Review the chapter of this owner’s manual regarding the battery maintenance.

 

[sag2]

So to follow up with the original complaint, it would seem that the best course to take is to connect an amp meter that is a clamp on type so you do not have to disconnect the IBS. Read the amp load while the message is displayed. If the load exceeds the generator output you either have a bad generator, too much load (unlikely), bad battery(s), or a bad IBS or BCM.

 

[Newsa]

If anything abnormal is happening with the batteries, i would suggest that it is trying to continue to charge already charged batteries. Wiring would be destroyed by high amperage causing high heat. We know that amperage is proportional to voltage according to Ohms law. But i doubt the voltage is going higher than 15 volts

 

[Manchester]

In my case, like I said earlier, the batteries, the alternator wiring harness, the IBS and the grid heater have been replaced. The dealer is going to load test the alternator again. It is a 220 amp version but FCA says that mine is the newer version - not the ones covered in the recall.

I suspect there is something going on with the BCM as pretty much everything else has been replaced...

 

[gsbrockman]

This could be anyone's guess, could be a number of causes or perhaps these AGM's are not top quality.....but I do know that he puts a lot more miles on his truck than us mere mortals. That could be a factor. Perhaps some of the trailers he transports have a slow continuous draw when parked overnight in the hotel parking lots? Just pulling stuff out of my you-know-what here.

Anyway, the point is, all things considered, quality AGMs take abuse (and have other advantages) much better than quality wet cell batteries. That is why they were developed.

My batteries died at 200k......about 34 months into ownership, but about 40 months based on build date of truck. Did they die early??? At 34 months....maybe. Did they die at low miles??? At 200k......I'm going with a "no".

And kthaxton.....I always was of the understanding AGM's were tougher than flooded batteries, due to the glass mats that are in place between the cells, thus eliminating dead cells due to shorting out next to adjacent plates. I can say one thing......I no where noticed any battery sensors in the box or on the battery "blankets" on my '14. IMO.....had the OE's been flooded batteries, there would have been sensors somewhere. I'm 99.9% confident OEM's are AGM's.

 

[Bob4x4]

If anything abnormal is happening with the batteries, i would suggest that it is trying to continue to charge already charged batteries. Wiring would be destroyed by high amperage causing high heat. We know that amperage is proportional to voltage according to Ohms law. But i doubt the voltage is going higher than 15 volts

With
1 bad batteryand 1 good I have seen 17 volts-it happens