48RE complete rebuild or necessary modifications?

[clemson726]

First post here so be gentle. I know I'm asking a form of a question that is very searchable. I'm interested in some opinions on my specific case, however, because well........transmissions are expensive and my money bin is not exactly full. So, for the truck. I have a 2006 2500 4x4, 3.73, 48RE, bone stock engine and transmission. 35" tires, small carli lift. I bought the truck brand new and its a little shy of 130,000 miles on the odo.

Its pulled a max of maybe 12,000lbs with an average of 7000lbs 4 times a year (maybe 2000 miles per year). I've never had any issue with the engine. The only issues with the transmission are as follows: i've replaced the gov pressure sol and transducer. Also, had to replace the big cooler. I've adjusted the front band once at about 110,000 miles and it didn't seem to need much adjustment. Maybe its me getting older and accelerating slower, but it seems like anytime i'm very slowly accelerating(1600 rpm), the truck sometimes cant decided which gear it needs to be in. It doesnt do it with more throttle. I'd never noticed it before, and its not that bad. It actually was less evident when i put new batteries in it. .............................Anyway, thats the background. Now for what I'm interested in. I'm looking at probably buying a camper in the next year. I'm not one that has any wild intention of trying to pull a 40' 5th wheels grossing 17,0000lbs down the interstate on a SRW truck. Something about sliding on my side for 100 yards when a tire blows out doesn't appeal to me at all. I'll be looking for something around a 10,000lb weight. either a tag along or 5th. Once the transmission is gone through, I would like to bump the power up some. Nothing crazy. Another 100hp max more than likely. Given this data, what would some of you transmission, towing guys do? I'm looking to rebuild myself. Should i go for a full rebuild kit and add a lower stall TC with shift kit. Or can i get by with less? Or should i add more ?

 

[AEdelheit]

I would call Gorend and have them set you up with best parts for your use, I had the transmission done about 10k ago on mine with a lot of Gorend parts and the power / overall feel is way better then the stock transmission ever was. A good TC/VB and parts is still not going to be super cheap but worth it in the end.

 

[clemson726]

Thanks. I'm trying to avoid calling a place that makes their money off selling the parts first. If i sold parts, I know what I would tell me. I'm really interested in some user advice. Nothing i'd like more than to be able to modify the VB, new TC and call it a day, but if it needs more then it needs more. I feel like i'm a unique case compared to most as i rarely work my truck hard and its relatively low easy miles. I know thats no indication necessarily of transmission condition but i'm sure there are some components that some of the residential transmission experts can say need to go or are more than likely ok to stay.

 

[AEdelheit]

You can not rework the stock TC and they are pretty poor quality to start with , trying to mix and match parts will likely cause more issues and may cost more in the end to make it right. If you dont want to call an honest and reputable place thats your choice but I would not just assume they will push unnecessary parts, they are very realistic and had when I talked with them had no issues with the user rebuilding there own trans.

 

[KParsons]

if the stock transmission did 130k. why not a good stock rebuild. very minor up grades.if you up the power level, well thats different.

 

[cerberusiam]

A transmission build is complex interaction of parts and setup, there is NO one answer for all questions. Your best bet is find a shop that is familiar with a 48RE behind a diesel and heavy towing, the options and setup will change from the next person that is light towing and mainly DD. I can tell you what I would use and do, but, I am not your warranty station. The next builder will have a different idea based on his experiences trying to keep comebacks from breaking him. Get solid answers form people not vested in your build will not be easy. Unless you know specifically what to do, find a builder to work with.

 

[clemson726]

A transmission build is complex interaction of parts and setup, there is NO one answer for all questions. Your best bet is find a shop that is familiar with a 48RE behind a diesel and heavy towing, the options and setup will change from the next person that is light towing and mainly DD. I can tell you what I would use and do, but, I am not your warranty station. The next builder will have a different idea based on his experiences trying to keep comebacks from breaking him. Get solid answers form people not vested in your build will not be easy. Unless you know specifically what to do, find a builder to work with.

Well that's what i'm after. Legitimate opinions, and I would like to hear yours. Ultimately I will make a decision on what I need to do based on what I hear. Like you said, ask 100 people, get 100 answers. I will do the rebuild myself.

 

[brods]

First post here so be gentle. I know I'm asking a form of a question that is very searchable. I'm interested in some opinions on my specific case, ...

I'll be the grumpy old man. Yes you should have searched first because:

1. You'd find out there is nothing unique about your specific case (sorry, if you're a Millennial you might want to go to your safe place for a while)
2. Gorend is a very respected company around here.
3. Cerb has covered your question many times over and you are just being lazy by asking him to answer again just for you.

If once you've done your own homework, then ask specific questions.

 

[cerberusiam]

Well that's what i'm after. Legitimate opinions, and I would like to hear yours. Ultimately I will make a decision on what I need to do based on what I hear. Like you said, ask 100 people, get 100 answers. I will do the rebuild myself.

Ok, high level:

1. Order a Goerend 900/400 single disk TC
2. Might as well get the seal kit from Goerend as it is as good as anything
3. Goerend should have the Raybestos GPz clutch's and should have them for the Direct, Forward, and OD brake. Raybestos HE for the OD directs. If you want extra clutches in the direct clutch pack have Dave set you up with a 6 or 7 clutch stack and revised reaction plate, or, you can source the same stuff from PATC along with a variety or steels for setting clearances.
3. Get TCS no leak servos for front and rear and a TCS accumulator plus an updated front band strut and anchor. PATC is a good source if they have tem or you will have to shop around for the TCS servos.
4. Shift kit, not a TransGo. Ask Dave what he would recommend.


At the mileage you are at you should not need thrust washer or bushing kits but you have to examine them to see. Same with the OD piston support and sprag clutch in the rear of the case. Approaching 300k replace them, less than that you have some life left but you NEED to examine them closely.

That is all the parts, now putting them together is the next thing. ATSG gives a broad range of clearances for all the clutch packs and you can play with them to get a build to your liking, that will depend on other things you do like VB pressures and TC choice. Same with drill places for better lube, choices of location and size so you have to decide what is best. Other option is just go stock with better pieces.

 

[clemson726]

I'll be the grumpy old man. Yes you should have searched first because:

1. You'd find out there is nothing unique about your specific case (sorry, if you're a Millennial you might want to go to your safe place for a while)
2. Gorend is a very respected company around here.
3. Cerb has covered your question many times over and you are just being lazy by asking him to answer again just for you.

If once you've done your own homework, then ask specific questions.

Thank you. I'll add that to my long list of things to lose sleep over.

 

[clemson726]

Ok, high level:

1. Order a Goerend 900/400 single disk TC
2. Might as well get the seal kit from Goerend as it is as good as anything
3. Goerend should have the Raybestos GPz clutch's and should have them for the Direct, Forward, and OD brake. Raybestos HE for the OD directs. If you want extra clutches in the direct clutch pack have Dave set you up with a 6 or 7 clutch stack and revised reaction plate, or, you can source the same stuff from PATC along with a variety or steels for setting clearances.
3. Get TCS no leak servos for front and rear and a TCS accumulator plus an updated front band strut and anchor. PATC is a good source if they have tem or you will have to shop around for the TCS servos.
4. Shift kit, not a TransGo. Ask Dave what he would recommend.


At the mileage you are at you should not need thrust washer or bushing kits but you have to examine them to see. Same with the OD piston support and sprag clutch in the rear of the case. Approaching 300k replace them, less than that you have some life left but you NEED to examine them closely.

That is all the parts, now putting them together is the next thing. ATSG gives a broad range of clearances for all the clutch packs and you can play with them to get a build to your liking, that will depend on other things you do like VB pressures and TC choice. Same with drill places for better lube, choices of location and size so you have to decide what is best. Other option is just go stock with better pieces.

So basically, theres not much money to be saved over doing a full rebuild? Next question is, is it worth building anytime soon? The fluid looks and smells fine. Its been changed regularly. I've never noticed it slipping. The fluid has never been over 190 deg ever. I had to replace the trans cooler a month ago and it hasn't gone over 150deg since so I think the valve in the cooler was probably stuck too. Is there any money to save on high dollar parts by building it now vs when it dies?

 

[nunya]

question on 48RE model year 2006.......what if anything was done to allow use of Jacobs exhaust brake?? Thanks, , just asking before I need to rebuild in the future!!

 

[cerberusiam]

Is there any money to save on high dollar parts by building it now vs when it dies?

Not really, only peace of mind knowing it is done.

question on 48RE model year 2006.......what if anything was done to allow use of Jacobs exhaust brake?? Thanks, , just asking before I need to rebuild in the future!!

Programming to make sure the trans did not do something to hurt itself while the EB was engaged
and allow downshifting correctly with the EB engaged.

 

[KOG]

Not Transgo? I think you used to recommend them. What's changed? BTW, last I heard
Transgo has the "shift kit" name copyrighted, but we know it's sort of generic anyway.

 

[nunya]

Thanks for the quick info! All internals are the same then? just programming changes............how bout that!!

 

[cerberusiam]

The TransGo is a good kit, it was all there really was a while ago for a complete solution. The Superior Shift Correct kit is a lot easier and less intrusive to install, seems to work just as good as a TransGo if you fix the other pieces in the trans that cause the problems, one can go back from the Superior changes with few issues. Trying to change how a TransGo kit acts with the amount of drilling and changes they make is lot harder, results are unknown, and less likely to succeed.

48RE from 04.5 to end of production was pretty much the same internals. Externally, the addition of the TTVA motor and programming was the only physical difference. The VB had nuance differences in places but not a bug change.

 

[nunya]

Thank you again!! 119K and still shifts like new.

 

[WhiteSheep]

Timely thread. Reading Moses Ludel's article on the 48RE in the last magazine got me to take my 04.5 to Pro Diesel in Phoenix to take proactively prevent the "stuck in park" issue and perform a general checkup. I am glad I did as when the plug on the Mag-Hytec was pulled there was a lot of metal on the magnet. Arizona towing is not kind on automatic transmissions and I think I dodged a bullet. Thank you Moses for prompting me to act. This is the value a TDR membership brings.

Decided on a rebuild very similar to that recommend by cerberusiam (thank you) including a billet triple clutch TQ. I provided my own AMSOIL Universal fluid and Wix filter. Since I only pull around 7K and run a stock 5.9L we passed on the billet shaft, but did add another cooler that is the last in line, out front in the stack and works when the main air to fluid cooler is bypassed. This dropped the temps by about 10 deg this time of year (~70 deg F ambient). They also removed the check valve in the main air to fluid cooler as they have seen it fail closed. Removing this check ball might not be a good idea where it is cold, but in AZ I think it is a good preventative measure.

Pro Diesel also suggested a temp gauge and to pay attention when the fluid exceeds 200 deg F. I installed a gauge in the SRT10 pillar years back with the Mag-Hytec and am glad I did. Yes I do pay attention and get out of it when the 48RE is hot. Note, don't leave it in park when "cooling down" as no fluid is moving. use neutral.

 

[AEdelheit]

Note, don't leave it in park when "cooling down" as no fluid is moving. use neutral.

Correct for stock VB however some like my Gorend do actually cool in park which is nice.

 

[Hootguy]

my DTT built trans is still going strong,500,000 on it,and no issues,,that says a lot right there,