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Egr dpf delete

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2015 RAM 2500 6.7 serviceable grease points??

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I have zero concern about the emissions regulations and or getting busted.

I'm not sure what to believe in one hand people are saying cummins engineered it perfectly, yet on the other hand the same people elsewhere are complaining that they are government mandated parts cummins was forced to use and its ruining the diesel longevity and economy.

It's on the back burner for the time being anyway. Until I dial in if the fuel in oil issue nothing else is going anywhere.
 
I'm not sure what to believe in one hand people are saying cummins engineered it perfectly, yet on the other hand the same people elsewhere are complaining that they are government mandated parts cummins was forced to use and its ruining the diesel longevity and economy.

The truth is usually somewhere among all the hype and exaggerations. The newer trucks and engines are better built and much more reliable than those that preceded them, but they are by no means perfect. People also like to cry wolf and talk about how the emissions are "ticking time bombs." But for every one of those individuals who has had a bad experience, there are dozens more who have little to no trouble for hundreds of thousands of miles....and usually those people don't spend much time complaining on the internet.

The fact is emissions are here to stay, and the regulations and testing are only going to become more common. Delete tunes will soon be regulated out of existence. Emissions intact tuning will likely gain traction. The emissions systems themselves will likely continue to be improved and optimized...they already have been improved over what originally came to market in 2007.

We can all complain and opine on how the EPA is pursuing short-sighted policy, and perhaps there is some truth in that, but that doesn't change the regulatory environment that we're dealing with.
 
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I'm not sure what to believe in one hand people are saying cummins engineered it perfectly, yet on the other hand the same people elsewhere are complaining that they are government mandated parts cummins was forced to use and its ruining the diesel longevity and economy.

Most of the people who are giving positive reviews here don't even have the same vintage truck/emissions that you have and are still under warranty and Haven't had the pleasure of repeated trips to the dealership on their dime. Just a few points to be taken into consideration. Good luck resolving your issue.
 
Most of the people who are giving positive reviews here don't even have the same vintage truck/emissions that you have and are still under warranty and Haven't had the pleasure of repeated trips to the dealership on their dime. Just a few points to be taken into consideration. Good luck resolving your issue.



You’ve made a valid point,I tell everyone up front that have been toying with the idea of buying a 6.7 and keeping it legal to make friends with a dealer diesel tech.Also be prepared to spend a few bucks during the life of the truck unless you do the trade-in before the warranty coverage runs out.The reality is this also holds true to the gassers as well.
On the flip side deleting the truck does not magically make the truck trouble free.There is a Facebook group sponsored by Rolling Smoke Diesel that preaches deleting.Every second or third post is about blown head gaskets or check engine ligh,or transmission issues
 
I have zero concern about the emissions regulations and or getting busted.

I'm not sure what to believe in one hand people are saying cummins engineered it perfectly, yet on the other hand the same people elsewhere are complaining that they are government mandated parts cummins was forced to use and its ruining the diesel longevity and economy.

It's on the back burner for the time being anyway. Until I dial in if the fuel in oil issue nothing else is going anywhere.

How much diesel fuel is in the oil? Have you done any oil sampling and what is the percentage in the oil?

I have had several different occasions when my truck would be overfilled with engine oil. The first few times was from dealer oil changes. The oil techs would not allow the truck to drain the engine oil properly. They would get all but the last quart or so, when the oil drain plug was than reinstalled. They would fill up the truck with three gallons of oil and install a new filter. This happen two or three times when I first own my truck (free oil changes). When I started to change the oil my self I allow the truck to drain about 20 min's. Than I close the drain valve and install 2-1/2 gallons first, than the new oil filter is installed and the truck is started. I will wait a little while and than check my oil level adding oil if I needed (usually a quart).

On other occasion my 2008 use to make oil during the 7,500 miles between oil changes. This was due to the emission programing with the last injection use to burn off the soot in the DPF. Per my oil sampling I would have around 1% of fuel in the oil. This no longer occurs on my truck.
 
The reality is this also holds true to the gassers as well.

Is communication - proper diagnosis and repair - with new Fiat/Chrysler vehicles only possible with witech or does the aftermarket have a better grasp on this support than with the diesel end?
 
Is communication - proper diagnosis and repair - with new Fiat/Chrysler vehicles only possible with witech or does the aftermarket have a better grasp on this support than with the diesel end?

Doesn't the new Edge Insight allow for reading and clearing of codes?

I thought there were products that provided that functionality?
 
Doesn't the new Edge Insight allow for reading and clearing of codes?

I thought there were products that provided that functionality?

Read codes, yes, most cheap scanners will read the generic version of the OEM code. But only witech can clear the hard codes that will derate after 200 miles, as well as other codes I'm sure.
Over the winter my def injector failed. I confirmed this through a simple resistance test, bought and replaced the injector and tried to clear the code with a friend's snap on solus scanner. Not high end snap on but cost between $4-5k new, it would not clear the code. There are timers that need reset that the scanner could not communicate with. I ended up having to take it to the dealership and pay to have it cleared.
 
Is communication - proper diagnosis and repair - with new Fiat/Chrysler vehicles only possible with witech or does the aftermarket have a better grasp on this support than with the diesel end?



I’ve only used the factory scanners on the late model stuff. The generic code definitions don’t always match and can lead you astray as well.Without the oem service info many shops beat their head against the wall.A local shop owner finally brought me his 6.7 after going down the wrong path.What ever diag info he was subscribed to was incorrect to put it mildly
 
Read codes, yes, most cheap scanners will read the generic version of the OEM code. But only witech can clear the hard codes that will derate after 200 miles, as well as other codes I'm sure.
Over the winter my def injector failed. I confirmed this through a simple resistance test, bought and replaced the injector and tried to clear the code with a friend's snap on solus scanner. Not high end snap on but cost between $4-5k new, it would not clear the code. There are timers that need reset that the scanner could not communicate with. I ended up having to take it to the dealership and pay to have it cleared.

I'm just thoroughly surprised that no one in the aftermarket has come up with a cheaper alternative to both read and clear codes.

At the very least you can buy something that can read the codes. How much does it cost to have a dealer properly clear one?
 
I haven't got a sample of the oil sent out. I'm going to try and change it this weekend, or next at the latest. I'll send some off to blackstone.

Working with the theory it is high what are some steps to diagnose the problem?
 
I'm just thoroughly surprised that no one in the aftermarket has come up with a cheaper alternative to both read and clear codes.

At the very least you can buy something that can read the codes. How much does it cost to have a dealer properly clear one?

I have a scan guage. It reads generic codes which is all you will get out of any aftermarket scanner. Big difference between generic codes and oem codes...

Dealership charged me a half hour labor to clear my cel.
 
FWIW everybody can buy a OBD2 scan too land should be able to read and clear most codes with it.

if your scanner doesn't have the ability to give a definition to what are termed proprietary codes, you can usually plug the proprietary code into a search engine on a PC and get an answer.

this is standard across the board stuff, so anybody can access OBD2 info. OBD2 is government mandated ( thanks for regulations LOL) so any repair facility can access these computer based engne management systems, not just the dealer network.... but OBD2 doesn't mean you can fix everything at home.
 
FWIW everybody can buy a OBD2 scan too land should be able to read and clear most codes with it.

if your scanner doesn't have the ability to give a definition to what are termed proprietary codes, you can usually plug the proprietary code into a search engine on a PC and get an answer.

this is standard across the board stuff, so anybody can access OBD2 info. OBD2 is government mandated ( thanks for regulations LOL) so any repair facility can access these computer based engne management systems, not just the dealer network.... but OBD2 doesn't mean you can fix everything at home.

When you get a hard code let me know how that works out for you.
 
actually, the scantron has done well up to this point but I've never had a code active or inactive( I'm assuming by hard code you mean active) on the Ram in the 2 years I have owned it
 
My scan gauge will also clear (certain) inactive codes. I'm not privvy enough on these emissions systems and how they communicate with each other but both times I've had a code that started the count down to 5 mph a friend's solus was no help. In one instance it gave the code but could not accurately trouble shoot, the other instance the faulty part was already replaced and still could not be cleared. My buddy, who owns a shop and has worked on many early emissions gm/Ford/ram trucks assessed there were likely timers or some type of parameters that needed reset that he could not see. I'm in the dark on this as much as most on here so don't take my word to the bank, but if a seasoned mechanic and a scanner of that caliber with the latest updates can't clear a code then anything that can is likely well above my budget. And that is a real bummer for a guy that has DIY'd every repair outside of warranty his entire life.
 
XJman. Even though this is a gen 4 section, I would like to let you know my experience with my
early non def emissions. Been anxiously waiting the verdict about the threads called "how long will
the emission systems last". Well, I got a good idea at about 110,000 miles. Being unaware of the
EGR Valve issues going on, I was still expecting to at least make it to the second 67,000 mile
service. But last year, soot coated the tailpipe meaning a cracked DPF. Then all hell broke loose.
Got CELs, limp modes, EGR codes. Smog check coming up in November. Tried cleaning EGR valve
but no change. Gave up and replaced the Egr valve with the latest part number. All back running good
again. Bought a new DPF and had a muffler shop install. Passed smog with flying colors. All that project
cost almost $3,500. Outside of routine maintenance and a front end control arm bushings and rack and pinion replacement last year the
smog stuff cost the most of all. I have been running an emissions intact programmer for power and economy for
the last 7 years and could not be happier. If this could be an expected cost for another 9 years, then
I wouldn't mind at all. It's still a keeper.
BTW, did you know that a muffler delete does raise the exhaust DB with a pleasing throaty sound with no
drone? Ask John Holmes. My neighbors can hear the Cummins grunting around on my way home. Smog inspection never even noticed.
I don't know if Geno's will fit Gen 4. Just a thought.
Tom
 
My emissions equipment has 199k miles on it. If it fails or not it doesn’t matter. It’ll need replaced anyway. It’s all put aside until I figure out my oil situation.

Thanks for the response though.
 
XJman. Early oil changes intervals with mine were done when the overhead promt chimes at around 4,000 miles. The dipstick showed
about a quart above and the drain oil was thin and runny. Filling three gallons plus filter and 20 minute drain would show just about above full. Since then I change the oil at 3,000 miles with 15-40synthetic. The dipstick still shows almost a quart gain by the next refill but the drain oil is much thicker.
All this since new. I consider that pretty much normal. Considering a low mileage engine makes about a quart gain, how much oil is your
high mileage engine making now? Maybe its not all that bad. You can also check for blow by. The next question I have is how long will these
pre def 6.7's last with all that raw fuel washing down the cylinder walls and thinning the oil. That is the case for deleting. Not an option
for me. Even though my '08 was pure stock the first two years, power and towing was more than needed. It was just the fuel
mileage was bad. The addition of emissions intact programming made things so much better with engine efficiency and fuel mileage.
Long empty freeway trips gets 22-23mpg, mostly city and some freeway gets 15 mpg, city only gets 12.8mpg, towing my TT gets 11mpg.
When stock, freeway gets 17.5mpg, mixed freeway and city gets 12.5 mpg, city gets only 10.8, towing gets same 11mpg.
Tom
 
It made probably just over a quart. I’ve got my sample collected to send out. I’ll try to remember to update when I get information back.
 
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