So there I was... Shopping for a new truck

[3rdGen_to1stGen]

when a person has a heavily modified or custom vehicle, they usually need specialty insurance if they want to insure the vehicle properly. Too late for that now.

I guess we'll call that one lessons learned.
It was also recommended to me that when I make upgrades to my vehicle to report it to insurance right away. And that's going to have to be the route that I go considering I just don't like newer trucks.

At any rate I was able to wear them down a little bit but not that far they moved the price and gave me 10 cents on the dollar for certain things.

Anything that is not considered a part or anything that I have the stock part 2 they're not going to miss.

Some of these things are still in their boxes such as the 20 inch fuel rims and some other odds and ends.

Things like the smartliners, the world's finest track bar the LED replacement lights all the way around some of these things are only a few months old on the truck and are essentially new to include the mag HyTech deep transmission pan and the ATS differential cover. I'm not thrilled about catching all that fluid and putting the stock pans back on and I'm trying to decide if it'll be worth my while to remove them for the amount of money that I'll get considering as a professional mechanic I always put a shop labor rate on the amount of time I spend doing things just for my own internal checks and balances.

However if I could find a cult following for the third gen in Tampa I still have about 7 days left and there's a lot more on the truck than I just mentioned here that the insurance company wouldn't miss.

There might be a 4x4 shop up the road that I've purchased used parts from before otherwise I might be looking at eBay or Craigslist or people that are local to the area either on this forum or the Cummins forum.

If I weren't moving I would probably just buy the salvage rights back on the truck and also since I am moving I certainly don't need a garage full of parts.

What is it that sales people say? My loss is your gain?

I'm going to search this for him as well as the Cummins form for just local chapters to see if there are any and try to see if I can gain some interest probably going to go ahead and keep my smarty and all of my edge components put them in a box for when I an extra blade purchase my next truck using lessons learned from this one including having the debate settled on driving it into a barricade versus not driving into a barricade.

Thank you for all the replies. I made sure to give everyone a like. If anybody has any suggestions on how I can offload some of this stuff let me know. Otherwise thanks for hearing me out.

 

[Grumpy8811]

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Thank you for all the replies. I made sure to give everyone a like. If anybody has any suggestions on how I can offload some of this stuff let me know. Otherwise thanks for hearing me out.

facebook marketplace.. and I sent you an IM..

 

[3rdGen_to1stGen]

facebook marketplace.. and I sent you an IM..

Received and thank you sir.

 

[Tuesdak]

If anybody has any suggestions on how I can offload some of this stuff let me know

What is the salvage buyback price they gave you for keeping it?

What are the estimates for repair did you get?

Drag it along to your new place to buy time to fix it, sell as a project, or part it out. Of course you could sell it before moving if someone is interested.

 

[3rdGen_to1stGen]

What is the salvage buyback price they gave you for keeping it?

What are the estimates for repair did you get?

Drag it along to your new place to buy time to fix it, sell as a project, or part it out. Of course you could sell it before moving if someone is interested.

$2k buyback, $8k payout minus $1k deductable.

I have always wanted a megacab actually. Plus the cargo bed needs changed before paint and she has been kind of a money pit. I am talking them up on a few more things and letting it go.
I can't drag it from FL to MT.

I will keep all the Edge Gear and Smarty. Going to try and sell the 4mo old Smart liners front and back, the 20" Fuel rims that never made it on, the Skyjacker springs that are still in the box, the Carli Bar has been on for barely a year and I have the stock one. Seems a shame but not sure if I feel removing it. $600 bar prob get $250 at best. Same with the trans and diff covers and Airdog. All that fluid. For 25% Meh. I have a brand new center dash console that I was going to install the double din kit on that never went on along with a Sony Double Din Deck. All still in box. Front tow hooks are fine. LED fog lights never removed from box.
What I will miss most is the bumper w/back up lights since I made it

I will move what I can and forget the rest.

 

[3rdGen_to1stGen]

Just searching really quick on 3rd gen good years, the internet said 2006 and 2007 were less advisable years. Why would it say that?
I was keen on trying to find the right megacab.

 

[JR]

06-07 would personally be the years I'd seek if I were looking for a gen3, if nothing else for the G56 trans. Just gotta watch the sneaky half year in 07.

 

[seafish]

Just searching really quick on 3rd gen good years, the internet said 2006 and 2007 were less advisable years. Why would it say that?
I was keen on trying to find the right megacab.

06-07 would personally be the years I'd seek if I were looking for a gen3, if nothing else for the G56 trans. Just gotta watch the sneaky half year in 07.

06 was the first year with full CANBUS electronic communications between modules.,
07.5 was the first year of the 6.7 with a slightly persnickety VGT turbo. Other then that. they are very good trucks with minimal emissions control

That said, I still prefer my 2005, which used SCSI instead of CANBUS and came with an actual Fuse Box.
A 2005 truck, if carefully selected and inspected , also came with the HO 5.9 CTD, a full aluminum turbo IC and the G56 6 speed transmission in the original lower gear ratio which was better for towing.

Just my .02…but you can have it for free

 

[bigceltic]

Just searching really quick on 3rd gen good years, the internet said 2006 and 2007 were less advisable years. Why would it say that?
I was keen on trying to find the right megacab.

Hey now! My experience is that 06 was a great year! I have owned mine since new. Just remember what Abe Lincoln said: "Not everything on the internet is true!" ;-)

 

[Tuesdak]

$2k buyback, $8k payout minus $1k deductable.

Unless you mistyped a number: where can you get a 4x4 Cummins pickup around this model year that runs and drives for ~$8K? Then add decent body...

What is the repair estimate?

Maybe you ask them to "Replace It" to make you whole.

 

[Timd32]

Get help from a professional. It's too much to try to do this alone anymore.

Collision Safety Consultants are independent, unbiased vehicle damage appraisers and inspectors specializing in the areas of vehicle diminished value, total loss assessments and pre-purchase & post collision repair inspections.

someone like this, no clue if they operate under FL. But they would know someone who does.

I think it's like $500 to do this process and it's in almost every states laws for this process of 3rd party appraisers. It removes the back.and forth from you and the company.

 

[JR]

06 was the first year with full CANBUS electronic communications between modules.,
07.5 was the first year of the 6.7 with a slightly persnickety VGT turbo. Other then that. they are very good trucks with minimal emissions control

That said, I still prefer my 2005, which used SCSI instead of CANBUS and came with an actual Fuse Box.
A 2005 truck, if carefully selected and inspected , also came with the HO 5.9 CTD, a full aluminum turbo IC and the G56 6 speed transmission in the original lower gear ratio which was better for towing.

Just my .02…but you can have it for free

Good points. But the 07.5-12 would be a no go for me unless passing a Smog test was not a....concern
The way they achieved compliance forces the engine to regurgitate on itself through copious amounts of EGR. SCR adds more components but to the benefit of engine longevity, and better fuel mileage.

 

[3rdGen_to1stGen]

All excellent points. The damage is done they weren't going to give me what my vehicle was worth but I was able to haggle with them to get them to raise the cost of the buyout.
I decided not to opt for the salvage for two reasons one I'm moving across the country and I work like a crazy person. I don't really have time for a project right now.

The other reason is I secretly always wished that I had a mega cab.

Even though the automatics go faster sometimes I wish I would have just gotten the six speed that's not a deal breaker if I find the right truck I find the right truck.

I got a really good deal on this vehicle sometime ago because I knew it was going to be a bit of a money pit to include a cargo bed that had to be replaced. On top of restoration efforts it's done nothing but cost me a lot of money since then. And I don't mean regular 20-year-old vehicle stuff I mean why this again type stuff. I'm old enough to have been out after dark I know the difference between having an old vehicle and having bad luck with a vehicle.

If I do get a 2007 it's definitely going to be with the 5.9 I'm so sure of this that I'm boxing up my smarty and my Edge to be broken back out when the new truck arrives and anything else that the new truck needs I'm going to have a third car so that it doesn't matter how long it takes me to do all of the things I intend to do.

I also understand that doing some of these third generation years you can get a 3500 without it being a dually that sounds kind of intriguing I wonder what the differences are I've had 13 years to become familiar with my 2004.5. is the 3500 that much different in regards to nuts and bolts and upgrades?

I'm not sure what they were thinking with that new wood grain stereo den. Ew. Perhaps they make a dash kit or I can just paint over that but it is nice to be able to have Smart liners that go over the hump. They added an extra knob so that's just one more thing that isn't mechanically connected. Oh well.

The new data bus doesn't really bother me unless that means they decided to add a dozen more sensors into the vehicle. I was recently troubleshooting a problem with the injectors or possibly the CP3 to the hard starting on my 2004.5 and I couldn't use a lot of the over-the-counter OBD tools to troubleshoot it because I was half a year shy. At least this way I'll be able to do some troubleshooting.

I would appreciate it if we could speak to some of those things I don't want to do it the way I figure it $3,500 just means that things are a bit more sturdy at the same time I don't want it to be more difficult as far as aftermarket items and customization also interested in the Laramie option.
Random annotation: I'm looking at trucks just like mine only with better paint that have similar upgrades for either as much or more than I paid for it originally these things really hold their value. Some of the 2006 and 2007 mega cabs especially the 3500 non dually some of them are over $20,000. As a result of this I just bought the wife a 2019 Armada which is a pretty sweet ride even though it'll pass anything but a gas station I'm pretty sure my 5.9 of tuned properly got a lot better fuel economy than that but it was only about 10 grand more and I feel like I'm driving around in an infinity. There is the saying that anything after - controls that slid and have mechanical linkage or the '90s style knobs was a mistake and I get that. That's why I'm not interested in new trucks it's not just because of the abomination of emissions bull crap, but the never-ending stream of bullcrap marching into our vehicles with each passing year that cost more and more to fix and are becoming more and more specialized favoring the dealer and making everything more expensive. If Elon musk really wanted to do something he would go ahead and keep him making his futuristic cars, and as a side project you produce something similar to the 1965 mustang or the 1980 diesel Jetta or some of those 1990s Ford trucks exactly as they were and of course you know a few of our diesels would be nice.
Especially when I was looking at these tahoes that have the duramaxes in them some of those are going for like $90,000 and they don't even have the good Duramax they have like a 3 l Duramax. Please. And I have to go backward in time to find a suburban or Yukon or Tahoe that's a 2500? More advanced it doesn't always mean better. I had a 1995 rodeo once and I started looking into it and I found that overseas most of those were diesel but you couldn't find one in the states just go with a lot of other SUVs and options you would have to literally import one. Also speaking of newer not always being better when I took the Armada to the Nissan guy I was asking about the Titan that has the Cummins in it they stopped doing it because it was unsuccessful and they couldn't get the engine to work properly with the truck. How do you mess up a Cummins unless you ask Cummins to spec it out a certain way and you spec your truck out a certain way and with all the cramp you have to do and you feel like you want to do and after adding all the bull crap that turns at $18,000 vehicle into a $60,000 vehicle with sensors that can tell how much your clenching your butt in order to help you with steering control and LED lights with sensors that can tell what the sun's doing and mirrors that cost over $1,000 to replace because you have to program them?!

Sorry about that I'm going to end the rant because I actually want those questions answered about those vehicles that I'm very serious about buying keeping in mind that I will have a third vehicle between me and the wife so it doesn't matter how long it takes me to do a project on the truck.

Now there's another side of me and this is the six side of me, the side of me that wants to do a first gen four-door. Lift the body off the frame making it basically a new truck step by step maybe sending the engine out to industrial injection first putting some compounds in it considering whether or not it needs an Allison sitting behind it.
Same situation with an older suburban or perhaps even an older excursion.
I know this is the unhealthy side of me coming out...Mr Hyde... The devil on my shoulder.
It's interesting to talk about such things and if money were no object I would certainly be happy to get into something like that the more pragmatic and practical option would be the third gen options I discussed above. Although even with the third gen option I discussed above considering most of us bulletproof or transmissions whenever we had power to the vehicle which I most certainly will if I'm going to send my transmission out and if I can find a way to make it acceptable core perhaps an Allison should go back in and I understand that means different blank to drive shafts and adapter plates unless of course I decide to go with the six-speed which will be a totally different thing all together. If I did that I would probably just start looking into having the best clutch imaginable and if there were any other rebuild options that help with the shift characteristics I would probably look into that too.

As far as the 6.7 goes I thought it sounded like a cool idea it seems like a good engine and it's too bad it didn't really take off until the SAE had their opportunity to turn it into a monster.

 

[bigceltic]

I also understand that doing some of these third generation years you can get a 3500 without it being a dually that sounds kind of intriguing I wonder what the differences are I've had 13 years to become familiar with my 2004.5. is the 3500 that much different in regards to nuts and bolts and upgrades?

For the 06 Mega the only diff between the 2500 and 3500 SRW was a half leaf spring in the back. I would assume that is the same for the 07 5.9 as well.

 

[Tuesdak]

I'm moving across the country and I work like a crazy person. I don't really have time for a project right now.

You are dreaming. Clearly you don't have time for an old vehicle that's a constant project or just repair it to run the next day.

To answer the question: Vehicles are politics. The EPA and other government has forced this expensive equipment on vehicles including the death of station wagons and now sedans. From pedestrian safe bumpers to CAFE... And the never ending "Glowing Government Reports" with ZERO regard for effective Vs. cost. You can't have missed the government's hatred for diesels. The recent election kept the current diesel hating VP out of the Office of President. She was the AG in CA when the independent truck drivers association sued CA over their Retro DPF laws. These self inflicted wounds are why we don't have many diesel choices in The USA. We don't have the diesel refining capability anyway.

There is nothing wrong with the modern emissions systems. From the point of view of TCO. For example my 2018 is still under warranty and an extended MOPAR warranty. Any problems are a $100 deductible. Vs. my 2003 3500 MT 2WD I bought used at 100K that needed a transmission rebuild, has already dropped a valve seat or other severe engine damage that was "patched up badly" by the PO, injectors, turbo, paint job... Although fun to drive I am glad to see that Cash Black Hole Gone! Again lacking even a cat converter from the factory I had trouble with Everything Else Expensive on that old one ton pickup. My 2018 makes the power I had the 2003 at With A Warranty!

End of the day I get in my 2018 with the DPF and DEF system and just drive it! It's been one of the most reliable vehicles I have owned. It gets nearly the same MPG as my 2003, but better than my 2005 Duramax did and esp. the 1993 6.5TD. Both got ~10 MPG in town. The 2003 would get 21 MPG with the A/C off. My 2018 gets 18 MPG generally and 14 in town. It's even kicking a 2020 GM 6.0L gas engine 2500 van without the baked in AFM problem around the block as that NEW shop queen van don't run and drive. When the warranty is up I can solve my worries about expensive emissions equipment by trading it in for new OR banking the money and just fixing it if and when it becomes a problem. If it wasn't for towing my RV on grades that go for miles I would have a cheaper TCO gasoline engine option esp. as diesel fuel is way more expensive than gasoline out west.

In our extreme heat the diesel injection event eliminating power robbing loss of timing from spark knock is a "performance" advantage worth paying for. There is a white long bed 1 ton RAM around here with a Hemi. Yet it's doorhandles from a stoplight. So again if it wasn't for long grades towing it would be cheaper for a gas engine.

I have owned 2500 Suburbans and for extra S&M the Disposable 6.2 and 6.5TD diesel... Or the "Drinking Problem" 454. Although if you find an 8.0L WTH it's something worth owning. Something about working on these to the point of ridiculousness around the 200K mile mark. I spent more at the local parts store than several local vehicle repair shops combined! Wore out parts repainted and sold as rebuilt "Do the job over" gets old.

Just saying once you get over the "hangup" of the emissions systems and other computer controlled stuff... I got an optioned up Tradesman with the manual 4X4 shifter and avoided the Etch-A-Sketch blinding at night 10,000 Watt lightbulb. So far less things to see the dealer about.

 

[3rdGen_to1stGen]

You are dreaming. Clearly you don't have time for an old vehicle that's a constant project or just repair it to run the next day.

To answer the question: Vehicles are politics. The EPA and other government has forced this expensive equipment on vehicles including the death of station wagons and now sedans. From pedestrian safe bumpers to CAFE... And the never ending "Glowing Government Reports" with ZERO regard for effective Vs. cost. You can't have missed the government's hatred for diesels. The recent election kept the current diesel hating VP out of the Office of President. She was the AG in CA when the independent truck drivers association sued CA over their Retro DPF laws. These self inflicted wounds are why we don't have many diesel choices in The USA. We don't have the diesel refining capability anyway.

There is nothing wrong with the modern emissions systems. From the point of view of TCO. For example my 2018 is still under warranty and an extended MOPAR warranty. Any problems are a $100 deductible. Vs. my 2003 3500 MT 2WD I bought used at 100K that needed a transmission rebuild, has already dropped a valve seat or other severe engine damage that was "patched up badly" by the PO, injectors, turbo, paint job... Although fun to drive I am glad to see that Cash Black Hole Gone! Again lacking even a cat converter from the factory I had trouble with Everything Else Expensive on that old one ton pickup. My 2018 makes the power I had the 2003 at With A Warranty!

End of the day I get in my 2018 with the DPF and DEF system and just drive it! It's been one of the most reliable vehicles I have owned. It gets nearly the same MPG as my 2003, but better than my 2005 Duramax did and esp. the 1993 6.5TD. Both got ~10 MPG in town. The 2003 would get 21 MPG with the A/C off. My 2018 gets 18 MPG generally and 14 in town. It's even kicking a 2020 GM 6.0L gas engine 2500 van without the baked in AFM problem around the block as that NEW shop queen van don't run and drive. When the warranty is up I can solve my worries about expensive emissions equipment by trading it in for new OR banking the money and just fixing it if and when it becomes a problem. If it wasn't for towing my RV on grades that go for miles I would have a cheaper TCO gasoline engine option esp. as diesel fuel is way more expensive than gasoline out west.

In our extreme heat the diesel injection event eliminating power robbing loss of timing from spark knock is a "performance" advantage worth paying for. There is a white long bed 1 ton RAM around here with a Hemi. Yet it's doorhandles from a stoplight. So again if it wasn't for long grades towing it would be cheaper for a gas engine.

I have owned 2500 Suburbans and for extra S&M the Disposable 6.2 and 6.5TD diesel... Or the "Drinking Problem" 454. Although if you find an 8.0L WTH it's something worth owning. Something about working on these to the point of ridiculousness around the 200K mile mark. I spent more at the local parts store than several local vehicle repair shops combined! Wore out parts repainted and sold as rebuilt "Do the job over" gets old.

Just saying once you get over the "hangup" of the emissions systems and other computer controlled stuff... I got an optioned up Tradesman with the manual 4X4 shifter and avoided the Etch-A-Sketch blinding at night 10,000 Watt lightbulb. So far less things to see the dealer about.

I hear you. Thank you for the information. To be clear but I meant to say is due to how hard I'm working and how much of my financial resources are going into preparing my house and the logistics involved with moving I don't intend to take on a project until after I move.

I hear what you're saying, there's also the second type of cool Factor which is I just like older trucks better than newer trucks.

I did it once and I can do it again. Being so close to a move I'm just trying to slay one dragon at a time.

 

[3rdGen_to1stGen]

For the 06 Mega the only diff between the 2500 and 3500 SRW was a half leaf spring in the back. I would assume that is the same for the 07 5.9 as well.

Considering my vehicle will be more of a daily driver as well as something I intend to add a bit of performance to I wonder if I should stick with the 2500. Extra spring means extra stiff suspension and if I want the tail end of the truck to stay up I can always just put some airbags in. I just didn't know if anything else about the 3500 was beefier or otherwise worthwhile to pursue.

I was also looking to get some anecdotal information on the goodness of these years of the truck to see if we had any known issues and pros and cons between them and the 2005 and even the 2004.5 aside from the fact that some are available in a mega cab and others are not which isn't a deal breaker just nice to have.

 

[Crunch]

Considering my vehicle will be more of a daily driver as well as something I intend to add a bit of performance to I wonder if I should stick with the 2500. Extra spring means extra stiff suspension and if I want the tail end of the truck to stay up I can always just put some airbags in.

Several years ago when I had my suspension rebuilt I asked the shop owner about air bags. He said they preferred to stay away from them because they wear out, and when they fail it's a bad fail. He told me that they prefer adding leaf springs instead. Since it was just a conversation and I wasn't planning on doing either I never investigated further. So I don't know the full scoop on it, but I can say that I've never had a leaf spring (or coil spring) on a vehicle fail.

 

[Tuesdak]

It's like a $1,000 to have a vehicle shipped. (Likely gone up since last time I shipped one cross country.) You already know your truck "project". Storage is also an option till your move is complete.

You will start over on any used truck and gamble on what it needs.

There are some other differences in a 3500 like having to run commercial plates say in AZ. The HO engines were only offered in the 3500's for some years. Tire pressure Nag isn't a problem on 3500's. IMO tire pressure and tire selection make a big difference in ride quality.

Does anyone actually sit in the rear seat that would care about the Megacab? Myself I prefer the longbed and have adults who sit in the 2018 crew cab I have. Way better room than the 2003 era 4 door to start with.

 

[3rdGen_to1stGen]

It's like a $1,000 to have a vehicle shipped. (Likely gone up since last time I shipped one cross country.) You already know your truck "project". Storage is also an option till your move is complete.

You will start over on any used truck and gamble on what it needs.

There are some other differences in a 3500 like having to run commercial plates say in AZ. The HO engines were only offered in the 3500's for some years. Tire pressure Nag isn't a problem on 3500's. IMO tire pressure and tire selection make a big difference in ride quality.

Does anyone actually sit in the rear seat that would care about the Megacab? Myself I prefer the longbed and have adults who sit in the 2018 crew cab I have. Way better room than the 2003 era 4 door to start with.

Again good information. When you're looking for a 20-year-old truck you don't just go shopping for one and come back with it that weekend it has to check some boxes for you in other words you have to be ready to get it when you meet the right lady.
I was keen on getting a larger fuel tank for various reasons S&B it's one for the short bed quad cab that I used to own but nobody else did and unless I had a mega cab or a long bed and I'm not sure if I want a long bed or not yet. Although I have seen some long beds even just with leveling springs that have a pretty nice aesthetic about them.
I don't necessarily mind having the extra room inside the cab and at 6'5 I feel bad for anybody that has to sit behind me. Also the boys are starting to catch up with me.
I believe certain years have the differential ratio as well as the T style steering which was the last thing I did to my 2004 before she passed.

I guess you could say I'm just trying to be an educated consumer of this third generation spread of trucks. I probably even want to know the answer to questions I haven't asked yet.

So far you guys have been awesome thank you even if you didn't tell me anything else I feel pretty well armed.