G-plus radiator

[GAmes]

Yes, I agree, however, as long as the cap keeps the water in the radiator at any temperature, it is good.

Yes, but my understanding is a higher pressure cap will retain the coolant at higher temps. I don't know what real world temps are, but say the 10 psi cap releases into the over flow at 220 degrees. On a 100 degree day that is a 120 degree temp difference for cooling. Increase the pressure to 16 and the cap doesn't release until maybe 230 degrees, a 130 degree transfer. So with a 10 psi cap if the coolant going into the radiator has been heated to 230 degrees some of it will not be cooled because it has been sent to the over flow bottle and the remaining will be sent back to the engine hotter than what the coolant would be if the cap didn't release until 16 psi. That is why I doubt an unladen test drive will change from what I had yesterday, but I have to drive it anyway and costs nothing to check.

 

[NIsaacs]

Well, for what it's worth, the Hayden is in, the Mopar is out. They claim it starts to engage at 170* radiator temp and will go as much as 80-90% lock up. They also say they don't publish temp specs on the thermo spring for fear "we" might try and thermal test it. Lol Will see what happens.

 

[GAmes]

Good luck. Is the Hayden on par with an OEM fan clutch price?

Didn't do a test drive today. Found an oil leak I can't ignore.

 

[NIsaacs]

Thanks, Gary...they are about $50 less than the oem online price.

 

[GAmes]

Hopefully it will perform as well as mine does. Who knows, Hayden might make the Dodge OEM clutches.

 

[NIsaacs]

Nick, very good point about the fan diameter and the fan shroud mismatch. And another good question is the capacity of the stock fan clutch too. I think a radiator with more cooling capacity might be worth trying and I know you just installed a new one recently. And the 4 row Aluminum radiator Gary is using is proving to be working very well. Beautifully made in the USA part.
Have you ever spoken to anyone on the tech line at Genos?
Someone there may have experience with the higher capacity 20" fans. $317 just seems like a lot of money for a plastic fan.
Just thinking out loud here Nick. There has to be a way to cool it down a bit and Im interested in seeing how its done.

Michael

Thanks for the feed back, Michael....keep it coming. I just replaced the plastic fan on my Ford Conversion, 20" 10 blade from Cummins and it was $300. It is a direct drive unit. I have a brand new Cummins 20" 10 blade fan with a clutch but of course it wouldn't fit the Ford or my Dodge. The fact they are plastic don't bother me, the Ram's have been using them since '03.

Yes, those radiator are fine looking but I am not convinced I can't make this one work. I have not talked to anyone at Geno's.

 

[The patriot]

https://www.ebay.com/itm/New-OEM-HO...m=R40&rt=nc&_trksid=m570.l1313&LH_TitleDesc=1

 

[GAmes]

https://www.ebay.com/itm/New-OEM-HORTON-EC450-Fan-Drive-Clutch-996141-996018-Made-in-USA/182557640617?epid=837034196&hash=item2a814887a9:g:KkEAAOSww9xZCUQR&_sacat=0&_nkw=horton+996018&_from=R40&rt=nc&_trksid=m570.l1313&LH_TitleDesc=1

That is only the clutch. There are several more parts required for the system.

 

[NIsaacs]

Hopefully it will perform as well as mine does.

Maybe yours is not working very good, that's why the $700 radiator...just kidding...but maybe....

As far as the Horton fan clutch, they are still available from Horton but the fan is not. Like Gary said in a earlier post, really not worth the trouble to try a source a complete kit.

 

[GAmes]

No maybe. It engages at a long stop light when the AC is on. Other than the inferior radiator my problem was the sticking t-stat. I can't wait for my next heavy pull with both of them fixed. More than likely it will be 5er & boat to one of my favorite lakes. Somewhere around 22k pounds GCW in 100 degree weather should be a good test.

 

[NIsaacs]

Other than the inferior radiator

I agree. The fact that the outlet is about 4" off the bottom leads me to believe it is only 70% effective. That and the short, wide design. Cummins recommends the more square the better, for less un-swept area. The air flow is restricted on our radiators in the far left and right sections. However, in all fairness, Dodge didn't say I could use an Edge Juice,

First picture is ours, second is late model 1st gen.

 

[GAmes]

What I meant by inferior is the Spectra compared to my original radiator. The fins on the original are copper colored and have oxidized to black. I scraped a little of the black paint off the Ice Box radiator and it too is copper colored. The Spectra, and IIRC the OEM replacement is silver/aluminum color. When I called Radiator Supply House they told me the alloy of their cooling fins and I believe they said copper/aluminum. Anyway, they are the same colored metal.

 

[JR]

Copper has nearly twice the thermal conductivity than aluminum, but that doesn't necessarily mean a copper radiator is always the better choice. In copper radiators the largest common tube size is I believe 5/8". This due mainly to weight and strength. Aluminum is stronger and lighter, and tube sizes up to 2" are possible depending on application. The larger surface area, combined with the ability to stack the tubes closer and improving the tube to fin contact area is why a GOOD two row aluminum can cool as well as a 4 row copper . Copper radiators are soldered with lead which is a horrible heat conductor.

 

[GAmes]

It's an alloy, so probably has the best characteristics of both metals it is made of.

 

[NIsaacs]

Made a short easy run to the landfill, then picked up a heavy load of cinders, with all the rain they were wet. About a 50 mile round trip, mostly slow local roads, running 4th & 5th, plus it was cool out (82) so I didn't get a hot test. However, I think I am going to like this new fan clutch. First impression is, the fan never goes silent like my old ones did. Even at high rpm, cool engine, it has a hum that is easily heard with the windows open. In town, low rpm cruising, it is medium loud at all times. It might be possible that a long shelf life, stiffened up the fluid coupling...but I hope not...I like it.

 

[GAmes]

I'm pretty sure that the idea behind the fan clutch is that is doesn't use power (fuel) to turn the fan when it isn't needed. If yours is constantly engaged your mileage will suffer. When mine is finished cooling the radiator I can hear the fan wind down when the clutch disengages. If the AC is off and I don't have anything in tow I never hear it, even with the Spectra radiator.

 

[NIsaacs]

I'm pretty sure that the idea behind the fan clutch is that is doesn't use power (fuel) to turn the fan when it isn't needed. If yours is constantly engaged your mileage will suffer.

If it fixes my overheating, I am okay with that. I don't travel long distance like you do, so a small hit will be a cheap price to pay.

 

[GAmes]

If it fixes your overheating I'll be happy for you.

 

[NIsaacs]

Still really like this 180* thermostat/Hayden fan clutch combo. I haven't made any long, tough, hot pulls but the local runs are very promising. Yesterday (91* AC on) hauled a load of cinders, 25K, and on a full bore acceleration from a stop to 65 mph, I saw 197*. That would normally be 210 plus. It wants to run at about 188 cruising with a load v/s 200 plus. My transmission is also running 10* cooler so my clutch works better, very little buck from a dead stop.

Nick

 

[Michaelsloft]

Still really like this 180* thermostat/Hayden fan clutch combo. I haven't made any long, tough, hot pulls but the local runs are very promising. Yesterday (91* AC on) hauled a load of cinders, 25K, and on a full bore acceleration from a stop to 65 mph, I saw 197*. That would normally be 210 plus. It wants to run at about 188 cruising with a load v/s 200 plus. My transmission is also running 10* cooler so my clutch works better, very little buck from a dead stop.

Nick

This is all good news Nick. 10 degrees is a big difference and keeping the transmission cooler will help keep things working better longer too.
Keep us posted!

Michael