Factory brake controller

[Dan_69GTX]

Have you tried your truck with a different trailer? If so, what, and what happens?

 

[DHayden]

I have a Dutchmen Voltage 3950 toy hauler, weighs about 16-17k empty. My 2015 3500 stops it good, I have the gain set on 8.5. At 5mph I can manually use the brake controller only and stop the truck, it doesnt come close to "locking up the brakes" as someone else stated but is effective. When it was at the dealer last time they showed an update for the brake controller that was related to a voltage issue. I did not get it as mine seemed to be working good and "if it aint broke, dont fix it" came to mind. I could see them flashing and then me developing a problem they were trying to fix.

 

[JR]

Just because your trailer works with other vehicles but not yours doesn't mean the fault is in the truck either. My 98 would lock up the tires on both my tilt deck and 5th wheel but my 14 wouldnt even recognize them (trailer not connected message). I ended up having to clean up the drum faces and replace the magnets in my tilt deck as well as clean up the grounds on the 5th wheel. These systems are very finicky.

 

[TFucili]

Just because your trailer works with other vehicles but not yours doesn't mean the fault is in the truck either. My 98 would lock up the tires on both my tilt deck and 5th wheel but my 14 wouldnt even recognize them (trailer not connected message). I ended up having to clean up the drum faces and replace the magnets in my tilt deck as well as clean up the grounds on the 5th wheel. These systems are very finicky.

^^^This^^^
I pulled a used Weekend Warrior home for my friend, and the brakes worked with my 2500. He hooked onto it with his 1500 and is battling the "Trailer Not Connected" issue. Both our trucks have factory controllers. He can pull other trailer he owns without issue. He is just about done re-wiring the toyhauler, and we are hoping that resolves it. Scotchloks and chafed wires are a big problem when all the manufacturers appear to hire 5th graders to do their wiring.

 

[GCroyle]

I have had my trailer checked out is was fine also hook up a GMC and a Ford git 11.1 volts. I and the mechanics test at the junction from the 5th wheel brake wire. I have my truck on heavy electric and maxed out on 10. My problem is I cannot stop the camper. If I ever had to stop fast it's not going to be good. If I am rolling and squeeze the manual to max 100% the truck just keep on rolling. This sucks. Spent alot of money for it not to work.

Joe,

1. Any chance to try a completely different truck and controller to test braking?
2. Electric drum brakes, correct? How about going back to basics, are they adjusted correctly? And if self adjust, just another reason to truly check them.

I just went thru similar scenario on a twin axle Airstream, had a brake problem and a IBTC unresolved issue that is getting solved by selling the offending TV.
And my go to tool for a lot of this is the IR temp gun.

Curious if they are using PWM if you have EOH brakes? And darn glad I have a MaxBrake and 4 piston Dexters on my rig.

Good stuff JR, gotta review that one in detail later.

Gary

 

[jhenderson]

It’s not the number of brakes over taxing the ITBM. . It’s the lack of voltage applied at low speed. The problem first occurred in the 2015 trucks which incorporated traction control in the trailer brake circuit. I did the leg work when my selling dealer couldn’t find the problem. At speeds under 30 mph my controller will max out at 7.4 volts to the trailer brakes. Over 30 it’ll put out over 11.5. That’s why you can’t lock the trailer when testing with the manual override in a parking lot. Those who tow heavy are the ones who notice the poor performance at low speed. Downhill to a 4 way stop is no time to pull voltage from the trailer brakes.

Ps. My brakes get full voltage and lock tight when the breakaway switch is activated.

 

[Wiredawg]

Part of the Texas State Vehicle Inspection criteria is the trailer brakes must stop the truck and trailer idling forward using only the brake controller. Mine passes fine. I would say if the OP or any other user can't do this with there's, it's possibly unsafe and shouldn't be used.

Beyond that, it's either troubleshooting the factory controller or getting a replacement aftermarket one.

Ron

 

[Joseph Sobiech]

Have you tried your truck with a different trailer? If so,

 

[Joseph Sobiech]

I have a 2 axle 4 brake snowmobile trailer that I have hooked up to and I only get 7.1 V with that trailer the trailer is lite aluminium I can't even skid the tires. With only 4 brakes and everything set to max I should get 12v or more. I have taken the truck back to shop with my small trailer hoping they can figure this out. It's still under warranty and yes it's a huge safety problem.

 

[Joseph Sobiech]

Joe,

1. Any chance to try a completely different truck and controller to test braking?
2. Electric drum brakes, correct? How about going back to basics, are they adjusted correctly? And if self adjust, just another reason to truly check them.

I just went thru similar scenario on a twin axle Airstream, had a brake problem and a IBTC unresolved issue that is getting solved by selling the offending TV.
And my go to tool for a lot of this is the IR temp gun.

Curious if they are using PWM if you have EOH brakes? And darn glad I have a MaxBrake and 4 piston Dexters on my rig.

Good stuff JR, gotta review that one in detail later.

Gary

Yes two trucks got 11.1 bolts. Yes adjusted several time all new brakes had the comper brake to dealer

 

[Joseph Sobiech]

Joe,

1. Any chance to try a completely different truck and controller to test braking?
2. Electric drum brakes, correct? How about going back to basics, are they adjusted correctly? And if self adjust, just another reason to truly check them.

I just went thru similar scenario on a twin axle Airstream, had a brake problem and a IBTC unresolved issue that is getting solved by selling the offending TV.
And my go to tool for a lot of this is the IR temp gun.

Curious if they are using PWM if you have EOH brakes? And darn glad I have a MaxBrake and 4 piston Dexters on my rig.

Good stuff JR, gotta review that one in detail later.

Gary

Joseph Sobiech
I have a 2 axle 4 brake snowmobile trailer that I have hooked up to and I only get 7.1 V with that trailer the trailer is lite aluminium I can't even skid the tires. With only 4 brakes and everything set to max I should get 12v or more. I have taken the truck back to shop with my small trailer hoping they can figure this out. It's still under warranty and yes it's a huge safety problem

 

[Wiredawg]

Just trying to help, have you gone into the EVIC and programmed your trailers in addition to the level setting on the controller?

28 Horn w/ Remote Lower Horn w/ Rmt Lwr On; Off
29 Lights w/ Remote Lower Lights w/ Rmt Lwr On; Off
30 Trailer Select Trailer Select Trailer 1; Trailer 2; Trailer 3;
Trailer 4
31 Brake Type Brake Type Light Electric; Heavy Electric;
Light EOH; Heavy EOH
32 Trailer Name Trailer Name • Trailer # (# is equal to slot
position)
• Boat
• Car
• Cargo
• Dump
• Equipment
• Flatbed
• Gooseneck
• Horse
• Tag
• Motorcycle
• Snowmobile
• Travel
• Utility
• 5th Wheel

 

[Joseph Sobiech]

Just trying to help, have you gone into the EVIC and programmed your trailers in addition to the level setting on the controller?

28 Horn w/ Remote Lower Horn w/ Rmt Lwr On; Off
29 Lights w/ Remote Lower Lights w/ Rmt Lwr On; Off
30 Trailer Select Trailer Select Trailer 1; Trailer 2; Trailer 3;
Trailer 4
31 Brake Type Brake Type Light Electric; Heavy Electric;
Light EOH; Heavy EOH
32 Trailer Name Trailer Name • Trailer # (# is equal to slot
position)
• Boat
• Car
• Cargo
• Dump
• Equipment
• Flatbed
• Gooseneck
• Horse
• Tag
• Motorcycle
• Snowmobile
• Travel
• Utility
• 5th Wheel

Yes I have it set to heavy electric with power setting on 10.

 

[GCroyle]

Joe,

Can you check something on the trailer.

With a good DVOM check the resistance between the 7 way plug on the trailer from the BRAKE terminal to the chassis ground on the trailer.

What is the resistance reading?

Gary

 

[Joseph Sobiech]

Joe,

Can you check something on the trailer.

With a good DVOM check the resistance between the 7 way plug on the trailer from the BRAKE terminal to the chassis ground on the trailer.

What is the resistance reading?

Gary

I will but will not be able until the 11th my camper is at camp. I did have it looked at over the winter at the rv dealer and I was there when I demanded for them to hook it up to 2 different trucks. I tested it myself with the mechanics. Got 11.1 volts brakes worked perfect. My truck got 6.5 volts

 

[jhenderson]

Joe,

Can you check something on the trailer.

With a good DVOM check the resistance between the 7 way plug on the trailer from the BRAKE terminal to the chassis ground on the trailer.

What is the resistance reading?

Gary

Why go through all that when the voltage at the truck plug is the problem? When you see a pile of horse manure you don’t go looking for a zebra.

 

[Dan_69GTX]

I'm not convinced it is the truck and I'm not convinced it is the trailer. Too many variables that have NOT been accounted for.

So to help eliminate variables. (unless I missed something and they have been accounted for).
- Do you have access to another similar truck to test with your trailer? - maybe one from the dealer?!?
If that works, then I'd agree it is the truck. If it doesn't, I'd suspect the trailer. Yea, the trailer works with other brake controllers, so did my trailers, but for me, it was the trailers (yes, multiple trailers).

- Do you have a good RV shop around? If so they should have a brake controller tester - such as this
https://www.etrailer.com/Accessories-and-Parts/Curt/C51498.html
These work great and if it works with your truck, I'd suggest the trailer is the problem, if it doesn't work, then I'd suggest the truck.

What we are looking for are KNOWN working devices to test. And by KNOWN, I mean not with a different type of brake controller.

 

[Wiredawg]

I'm not convinced it is the truck and I'm not convinced it is the trailer. Too many variables that have NOT been accounted for.

So to help eliminate variables. (unless I missed something and they have been accounted for).
- Do you have access to another similar truck to test with your trailer? - maybe one from the dealer?!?
If that works, then I'd agree it is the truck. If it doesn't, I'd suspect the trailer. Yea, the trailer works with other brake controllers, so did my trailers, but for me, it was the trailers (yes, multiple trailers).

- Do you have a good RV shop around? If so they should have a brake controller tester - such as this
https://www.etrailer.com/Accessories-and-Parts/Curt/C51498.html
These work great and if it works with your truck, I'd suggest the trailer is the problem, if it doesn't work, then I'd suggest the truck.

What we are looking for are KNOWN working devices to test. And by KNOWN, I mean not with a different type of brake controller.

I agree. I'm down from surgery right now, but all the folks with factory brake controllers, lots of potential to get voltage info from the masses to see what these things typically put out.

Again. I'm not sure Pulse Width Modulation voltage = straight voltage. In affect, we have antilock trailer breaks. Go out and try to get your trucks brakes to lock up or skid. I do admit there could be a problem with your truck, but it will be easier to "brake" it down to analyze. I owned a triple axle cyclone drum electric brakes, not with this truck, but previous one with aftermarket controller. Although they were auto adjusting, I went through and manually adjusted them. I think the auto adjusters require a repeated hard braking while backing several times on a hard surface to get them to work. I also am strong advocate of dielectric grease on all connections, and even on a new trailer, will go through and do it.

I also noticed in the owners manual on mine, a complete trailer setup procedure. I would document results of following that and check what works and what doesn't. If further inclined, use the FCA brake controller troubleshooting checklist and use a multimeter versus the 12vdc test light. This would be best documentation to give FCA. Also, be great if you have friend with Ram to check and document also, or maybe a TDR member near you.

One more thing. I pull a 21Klb EOH 5er, 20' electric drum enclosed car hauler, and 14' electric drum dump trailer that I have to be mindful to change brake controller. Biggest one is dump trailer, I can literally burn the tires off if I dont change settings when pulling it empty.

We're all here for ya dude, and will continue to deliver free advice, humor, and support.

Cheers, Ron

 

[TFucili]

Why go through all that when the voltage at the truck plug is the problem? When you see a pile of horse manure you don’t go looking for a zebra.

Because in these days of microprocessor control of even the previously simplest component, it is not as straightforward as it used to be. There may in fact be something screwed up with the OP's truck, but also take into consideration my example above. Same trailer, two different Ram trucks with OEM controller, I pulled it nearly 100 miles and had brakes the whole way, and my friend can't go around the block without getting the trailer not found, and losing trailer brakes. I also figured out, as Wiredawg's excerpt points out, that there is no output without the trailer hooked up. These controllers are not just an output device, they are "looking at" the trailer and deciding what to do. Again, I am not disagreeing that it may be the truck, but troubleshooting it is not all that cut and dried.

On Edit: Shoot it takes three processors to blow the horn on these durn things!

 

[Cummins12V98]

MaxBrake hands down the best EVER!!! Sad but it started making my actuator buss when connecting. No Idea why. So I went back to my OE flashed controller. Works but NOT impressed so I installed a P3. Not impressed again! I don't like applying the brakes and basically no trailer braking until there is stopping force to get voltage to brakes.

Anyone know what my issue may be with MB???