Factory brake controller

[SnoKing]

Which makes one wonder if the signal is NOT Pulse Width Modulated in EOH.

I know I am at 6.0 EOH on our 16k 5er, and 24,500 combined. For our 8K little guy bumper pull I am on Electric Heavy at 6.0. I may try it on EOH light.

 

[Cummins12V98]

Because it’s gone to hell. Dutch and Di had a few misc parts leftover from being a dealer but even those are gone now. Too bad MaxBrake went under. It’s by far the best controller I’ve ever owned. The guy who bought my 3rd gen loves it.

Someone mentioned a soft re set???

 

[Wiredawg]

Which makes one wonder if the signal is NOT Pulse Width Modulated in EOH.

I know I am at 6.0 EOH on our 16k 5er, and 24,500 combined. For our 8K little guy bumper pull I am on Electric Heavy at 6.0. I may try it on EOH light.

We live down 1/4 mile gravel road, so setting gains is usually done when I reach pavement. I might could get by with lower gain setting on the Mobile Suites, but I really like a little more aggressive stopping on a big heavy trailer. I've done a couple panic stops with it, so know it works stopping hard and fast. Felt positive.

Cheers,

Ron

 

[Ozymandias]

@Wiredawg

I still use a Light and a Multimeter.
Sometimes a Light helps to find partly broken Wires or oxidized Connectors because it puts a small load on the probed wire, the Light dimms down from this.
A Multimeter just shows fine 12.xV on a wire like that because of no load.

 

[Wiredawg]

@Wiredawg

I still use a Light and a Multimeter.
Sometimes a Light helps to find partly broken Wires or oxidized Connectors because it puts a small load on the probed wire, the Light dimms down from this.
A Multimeter just shows fine 12.xV on a wire like that because of no load.

You know I may have one somewhere, my multimeter has a buzzer to. I have a bunch of probes and clips, not usually just looking for voltage, but how much. All is good though. I'm proud, knock on wood, I've found and repaired every electrical problem on my RV and truck, from trailer brakes to refrigerator, to RV audio video. Good stuff.

Cheers, Ron

 

[sag2]

If you want to test it use an old blower motor. You can watch it pulse the motor when the brake is not applied, and watch the speed increase as you depress the brake or manual lever. I made up a tester for May Madness a few years ago with a 7way wired to blower motor.

 

[Wiredawg]

If you want to test it use an old blower motor. You can watch it pulse the motor when the brake is not applied, and watch the speed increase as you depress the brake or manual lever. I made up a tester for May Madness a few years ago with a 7way wired to blower motor.

NICE! And it has a load too.

Thanks. Ron

 

[EZeis]

The only difference between electric and electric over hydraulic setting is the EOH doesn't send the "check" voltage signal looking for magnets. That will eventually burn up a EOH actuator. They both send the same voltages.


Earl

 

[EZeis]

I was smart enough to keep my Brakesmart from back in the day. My 18 controller works beautifully, but will hold onto my Brakesmart till I die. lol Now that was a brake controller!!


Earl

 

[SnoKing]

The only difference between electric and electric over hydraulic setting is the EOH doesn't send the "check" voltage signal looking for magnets. That will eventually burn up a EOH actuator. They both send the same voltages.


Earl

So can you explain better braking with drum brakes with the controller in EOH? Trust me there is a difference.

 

[SnoKing]

Also on our old Cardinal 29 footer, I rewired the brakes in a star configuration with #12 wire, getting away from the small gauge wires in the axles, and brakes worked much much better.

 

[Wiredawg]

I had a 2013 Cyclone Toy Hauler with triple 6Klb axles. Worst wiring on any RV I owned. Brake wiring was taut, wire bongs marginal, and brakes not adjusted. Good thing my Ram 4500 had huge brakes to stop the darned thing. I ended up going through all wiring and connectors, manually lubed and adjusted brakes on new unit and eventually learned how to use auto adjusters... backing and activating manual trailer braking hard several times. I did get the brakes working good. bu not from the get go. The EOH with disks on my Mobile Suites are the best I've ever experienced.

I was actually casually suggesting to the OP he may want to do this on his toy hauler. Just applying full 12vdc to the brakes doesn't verify they are adjusted or operating optimally. Just something to consider.

Not part of the brake discussion, but marginal wiring and connector caused burnt wiring on the generator that could have burned the RV up. Cummins fixed it and Heartland paid fo it.

Cheers. Ron

 

[Dan_69GTX]

Hey Cummins12V98

Maybe it needs recalibrating?! Here is how to do that - from the maxbrake setup:

1. Make sure vehicle is at a complete stop.
2. Vehicle engine must be running.
3. Take foot completely off of brake pedal.
4. Press and hold the Cal button until message says release Cal button. (See front & rear illustration for
location of Cal button)
5. You will see a message “Cal Mode”.
6. Look at center of screen for the number next to “T”.
7. Slowly apply pressure to brake pedal until the “T” number is between 40 and 45.
8. Take foot completely off of brake pedal.
9. Press and hold the Cal button until message says release Cal button.
10. MaxBrake is now trained. Test to ensure that MaxBrake tracks with the brake pedal.

 

[Dan_69GTX]

Also, does the maxbrake show "0" application on the LED screen, left side, when making the actuator buzz?

 

[Cummins12V98]

Also, does the maxbrake show "0" application on the LED screen, left side, when making the actuator buzz?

Unfortunately I am not at my home base now where it's stored. I will be hooking it up and will report back.

Thanks for the help guys!

It sucks when you know how good braking can be.

 

[JR]

I didn't part ways with my Max Brake. Put my old Prodigy back on my 98 when I sold it. Biggest thing I miss is the ability to lock the trailer brakes while loading/unloading equipment. What a sweet option.

 

[SnoKing]

I had a Prodigy I should have put in the old truck before I sold it, and keep the Max Brake. That and BrakeSmart were the best controllers ever made hands down.

 

[EZeis]

So can you explain better braking with drum brakes with the controller in EOH? Trust me there is a difference.

Google it. I find no difference in the two. The P3 was the same. P3 manual stated the difference. Check your voltage output in both modes. EOH actuators use the same voltage. You don't want the controller to send the magnet check every couple seconds. So they made the EOH mode to stop that cause it causes the actuator to bump cycle a lot and can burn them up.
Either mode won't make more than system voltage. Both will max out at the same voltage. Lead in voltage might be a little different, but I tested both modes on several trailers on my P3 and the built in and never felt any difference. I also have no issues with my built in controller while others say it's worthless. My 18 performs up there with Brakesmart. The P3 I hated. You never knew how it would brake. Either too light or way too aggressive. Never in syn. Trailer either pushed you or whiplash. Yet ppl praise them like they are gold. I had two of them, both junk. Second one the buttons kept sticking. Warranty dept a joke. Gave up and threw it in the trash. Gave the other one away.

Check your output voltage in both modes. Also check the voltage at different gain settings in each mode.

Earl

 

[SnoKing]

Google it. I find no difference in the two. The P3 was the same. P3 manual stated the difference. Check your voltage output in both modes. EOH actuators use the same voltage. You don't want the controller to send the magnet check every couple seconds. So they made the EOH mode to stop that cause it causes the actuator to bump cycle a lot and can burn them up.
Either mode won't make more than system voltage. Both will max out at the same voltage. Lead in voltage might be a little different, but I tested both modes on several trailers on my P3 and the built in and never felt any difference. I also have no issues with my built in controller while others say it's worthless. My 18 performs up there with Brakesmart. The P3 I hated. You never knew how it would brake. Either too light or way too aggressive. Never in syn. Trailer either pushed you or whiplash. Yet ppl praise them like they are gold. I had two of them, both junk. Second one the buttons kept sticking. Warranty dept a joke. Gave up and threw it in the trash. Gave the other one away.

Check your output voltage in both modes. Also check the voltage at different gain settings in each mode.

Earl

One would have to compare the wave form with an O-scope, to know the pulse width is the same.

BTW I hated my P3 also, was never right between city and highway.

 

[jhenderson]

Bad, incomplete, damaged, corroded connections, even on a new truck, can increase circuit resistance that can reduce circuit voltage. The sensor input voltage signals are all probably low voltage, that can have even a greater impact. The ITBC is part computer. May not make a difference, but can't hurt either. When I worked for the government, I used to coordinate trouble shooting command and control systems, and came up with some pretty interesting causes.

I use dielectric grease on every connector I touch. I inhibits corrosion and moisture for a better connection.

Ron

You’re not getting the whole picture. If it was a faulty connection the voltage wouldn’t increase when exceeding approximately 30 mph. If you had read my 1st post you’d know I’ve been through this top to bottom. You’re not changing factory programming of the ITBM.