oil filter 1/2 empty at oil change

[Wayne M.]

You filter your bacon grease?

Your engine oil is becoming a solid at room temp?

It’s not an drastic example, it’s an irrelevant example.

Your engine oil is constantly circulated and filtered, bacon is neither. If hot oil removes that much from your pan you have much bigger issues.

It's definitely not irrelevant. It's a matter of viscosity and refinement. Diesels can run on used cooking oil, right?

John, do you really leave your crankcase open overnight? That's pretty ridiculous. That there is a deal breaker. What if there's an emergency, and you need the truck- God forbid a fire or something. Or you just plain forgot? No professional leaves an engine with an empty crankcase without disconnecting batteries and a note on the steering wheel, or some other tag out.

 

[gsbrockman]

Gosh......I now wish I had not even posted or replied....especially with the pictures.

But.....I may as well post this pic of a 2006 5.9L w/207k miles on it that was in the shop at the same time mine was for some engine work.

#ad


I guess I should do something different.

 

[AH64ID]

Hows that? isn't the capacity 12 Quarts? That's that I drop and replace everytime.

You measure what you drain? To include oil in the filter.

Ever seen one of these oil pans off the truck?

Just look at it next time you change it. The threads for the plug extend into the pan an easy 3/8" and the pug port is recessed as well probably 1/8".

A 8"x8"x1/2" area holds .55 quarts. That's a 1/2 quart of fluid that won't drain. The head holds at least another 1/2 quart, but that's not measured on the dipstick it's just residual.

It's one of the few oil pans I've ever seen that doesn't allow the plug to fully drain the pan.

Next time you change your oil, wait for the pan to cool and stick your finger up inside the pan. You'll be surprised how deep the threads go, I know i was.

Best photo I could find in a quick search.

Food for thought on hot vs cool. The oil filter is a 20-30 um filter so anything smaller than that is in suspension while running. On shut down it starts dropping out of suspension. The real question would be how much is pulled back in to suspension as the oil drains out of the pan.

That's assuming a stock oil filter, not one of the better ones on the market.

But even using the stock filter you are only doing this once every 15K miles. If those particles were that detrimental we would have bigger issues with 15K mile intervals.

 

[AH64ID]

It's definitely not irrelevant. It's a matter of viscosity and refinement. Diesels can run on used cooking oil, right?

Now you're onto a fuel source?! But hey, while you're on the subject I am fairly certain that cooking oil is filtered before getting into the truck, at least once, and filtered again in the truck before being burned, at least once. So circulated and filtered, like engine oil... which insures that it's clean for use.

It most certainly is irrelevant. Does your motor break off into your oil as you run it like bacon does when you cook it?

Feel free to try another analogy, maybe one that has actual relevance.

John, do you really leave your crankcase open overnight? That's pretty ridiculous. That there is a deal breaker. What if there's an emergency, and you need the truck- God forbid a fire or something. Or you just plain forgot? No professional leaves an engine with an empty crankcase without disconnecting batteries and a note on the steering wheel, or some other tag out.

You're ASSuming things pretty boldly with that post, and if it's not a joke I'll just continue to shake my head in disbelief at your ridiculousness. You're questions aren't even worth of answers, just a slow head shake in response.

Gosh......I now wish I had not even posted or replied....especially with the pictures.

But.....I may as well post this pic of a 2006 5.9L w/207k miles on it that was in the shop at the same time mine was for some engine work.

I guess I should do something different.

Yeah you're right... he must have drained his oil cold.. That's the ONLY thing that would cause that...

Aside from you not knowing, or posting, his maintenance practices the 04.5-07 motor has LONG been know to turn everything black due to the piston design and in-cylinder EGR. It was far worse on oil than your 2014... surely you know that after all these years on here. The valve train and oil look like that within minutes of changing the oil on any 04.5-07 with the stock cam and pistons.

You're practices work great for you, keep it up. Nothing you have shown puts any evidence towards draining hot.

 

[Wayne M.]

John, please stop using liberal political tactics to argue a point. You’re more likely to properly drain an engine with warm loose oil vs. cooler, thicker oil.
It’s obvious that you’re not a mechanic by trade, or otherwise involved with cars and trucks professionally, because leaving a crankcase open while you go to bed is either pure amateurism, or just stubborn to follow some handed down custom.
To add, its Chrysler factory procedure to warm up an engine before draining the engine oil.

 

[Wayne M.]

I do not measure what I drain. And yes I did call out the thickness of that bung 5 years ago when I changed my own pan.
I know I’m on the money because after a drain, I’m on the “E” in SAFE, and that’s where it stays whenever I check it. If that means I’m over by .5, then I’ll live with that.

 

[AH64ID]

I’m at a loss for words, and a loss of major respect I once had for you. Didn’t take you for making such false and uneducated assumptions.

The only clear thing here is that your assumptions are wrong, and severely uneducated. Been taking lessons from AOC? As that’s the logic you’re using on me... and bacon. I mean what did bacon ever do to you

Beautiful job turning a discussion into a personal attack. Most adult thing I’ve seen all day.

 

[AH64ID]

Many professionals don’t warm oil up before changing, it if they have to start and move the vehicle to get it into the bay they will warm it up. Hopefully I don’t have to explain why to you.

As for leaving a crankcase open, I don’t see why your all up in arms about that? You’ve never done maintenance that takes 2 days? Or longer? Go by most any professional shop and you will see vehicles that are under some level of multi-day maintenance. Are you going to give them an asinine scolding too?

Don’t worry, in a fire I’ll tend to my family and you go save your truck. I’ll with the insurance company about the truck.

 

[dieselshadow]

I don’t see that I’ll be convincing you anytime soon, and that’s ok. We are all entitled to our opinions. I for one appreciate the discussion.

But since this is going downhill, this will be my last post in this. My posts weren’t about who’s right, wrong indifferent, or what political party you may belong to.

At any rate, I am a professional mechanic. Have been all my life. I can’t ever remember reading instructions from any manufacturers or technical instructions to drain a piece of equipment cold. They all pretty much across the board want it warm or operating temperatures. I’m sure there’s an exception here and there, but far and few in between.

The main reason is suspension. You want to keep any particulates in suspension to come out with the oil when drained. Have you never inspected or seen sparklies come out with oil? A lot of times rearends will show this. Manual gearboxes usually have this trail of sparklies. I call them sparklies, chunkies, chewies, and serial numbers. The last one is a bit of an issue of you happen to see them. LOL

Heavier particles will settle if allowed time to cool. Your crankcase is full of un-filtered oil. It’s no longer filtered once it leaves the oil galleries. It then picks up dirt, debris, and heat as it returns to the pan. That’s what you want to catch and hopefully not see.

Cold oil just won’t do that as effectively and efficiently. Manufacturers know this.

I’ve been doing this all my life and probably won’t change. I’m not telling anyone else to change, just sharing what I do and why.

Your mileage may vary.....

 

[Wayne M.]

Honestly I feel the same. I started scratching my head about you a page ago.
That said, in the REAL professional world, it’s going to be whatever is quickest with no regard to semantics, which is what we’ve cooked this down to.
REAL STORY. Back in the ‘80’s when oil wasn’t what it is today, I had a customer who was an AMWAY salesman. The Camry logged serious commercial mileage, and he demanded the oil changed twice a month. He expected the oil to be draining before the lift topped out. He was a busy man and tipped well as he watched. So he got a hot FAST drain.
I can recall many jobs that were a State Inspection and LOF. I preferred to drop the oil after the inspection (it was warmed up), but my partner thought it was quicker to drop the oil upon the visual part of the inspection. One trip up the lift.
Again, in a professional setting, if a vehicle can be mobile at COB, it should be, keys in ignition etc. if your shop burned down (I never implied or meant danger to your family) they’ll want to know about efforts to save assets.
If I ran a shop, and I caught a guy doing a job where the equipment should be tagged out, batts off, etc, he’d get the treatment too. A dry engine overnight (for whatever reason) qualifies to be tagged out.

 

[Cummins12V98]

Hows that? isn't the capacity 12 Quarts? That's that I drop and replace everytime.

I guarantee if you check your oil level cold on LEVEL ground note level on dipstick. Then get hot n drain even overnight add 12 quarts you WILL BE overfill.

 

[Wayne M.]

I dunno. I’ve been doing this on these trucks since I bought my ‘92 in ‘97. I’ve always done the same thing and got the same result.
I won’t lie but I’ve even came out and dropped the oil on a Sunday morning (cold), after an overnight in position once or 3 times, and still got the same result.

 

[nukegm]

i like bacon.



quite the discussion comrades. i hope everyone stays friends. we all are on the same team vehicle wise.

cheers, chris

 

[Wayne M.]

i like bacon.



quite the discussion comrades. i hope everyone stays friends. we all are on the same team vehicle wise.

cheers, chris

Hi Chris!
Betcha didn’t count on this right? I always wonder about the OP when these turn into a walk about the barn!
I hope you got your answer. I think you’ll be fine!

 

[nukegm]

Hi Chris!
Betcha didn’t count on this right? I always wonder about the OP when these turn into a walk about the barn!
I hope you got your answer. I think you’ll be fine!

yes sir. all good here. still vertical and a cold beer in hand.
cheers comrade wayne.

 

[Newsa]

What would AOC do with her oil changes?

She would probably change it cold like i do.

Can't help our character flaws and poor judgement.

 

[jhenderson]

I’ve argued about some pretty petty things here from time to time but this ranks in the top 3. At least I’m not the only one to get sucked into stupidity from time to time.

 

[Newsa]

Someone mentioned sludge. Whether you use conventional or synthetic, I doubt any of us will have what is truly sludge.

Sludge is different than/from soot-laden oil which could be on the oil pan. Sludge is oxidized oil that has changed physical and chemical properties from what should be in your engine. These CK4 oils (all of them) have additives that handle soot. And they resist oxidation because of improved additives.

As for soot-laden oil, you will have a bit of that on your oil pan every time you drain whether you use the Fumoto valve or not, no matter what temp you change your oil, and whether or not you use a bypass filter set up.

 

[Cummins12V98]

I only add 11qts and 24 or so OZ to put me right on the money. Readings on my LEVEL shop floor.

 

[Learjet]

I only add 11qts and 24 or so OZ to put me right on the money. Readings on my LEVEL shop floor.