Spyntek Hubs or not?

[Topzide]

Have a drivers side u-joint starting to click. Since I've got 165K + on the clock and have been thinking of putting Spynteks on at sometime, would this be the best time since I'd want to change out the front hubs anyway? I'd hate to tear down and find out that I would need hubs during tear down or right after I put it all back together! I'd have about half the cost of the Spynteks with standard parts anyway. Like the fact that the Spynteks are serviceable and can replace bearings instead of whole assembly! Just wondering how many of you would do the same. Hope you're having a great day! Thanks.

 

[kthaxton]

While I have no experience with Spynteks....if longevity is the only goal....it seems your stock ones did quite well and new ones (if needed) would likely buy you another 165k or more.

Don't use TDR as a way to convince your wife you NEED these new shiny parts.

 

[AH64ID]

How many miles do you plan to put on the truck?

I did hubs on the 05 and they never saved me a penny, so I have a hard time even considering them now. Unit bearings are pretty darn good these days, especially if you put a little extra grease in them.

While the spyntec’s can go longer on the bearings they do require more maintenance to do so, so you don’t really save time or money in the end.

But, if you were to install them then yes this would be the time to do so.

 

[AH64ID]

Duplicate

 

[crazy jerry]

if its a newer cad axle then hell no i wouldnt put manual hubs. what the hek would be the logic behind it. there wouldnt be any. put new ujoints and unit bearings then carry on. if balljoints are questionable may want to change them while your at it. but they might still be fine

 

[bcbender]

I could never justify the cost personally, never going to get enough fuel savings to make a difference, and as John said much more maintenance.. I put new Timken's from Rock Auto on my Ram and never had any issues after 100k and I assume they are still going today.

 

[Ozymandias]

Gen4 Aluminum rims do not fit the Freespin hubs.

 

[Regcabguy]

4 lows handy if you need it.
I got in on a group buy plus a $200 rebate so my Dynatrac's were well under Spyntecs. With the ability to grease them I wouldn't do it again for retail. Until I got my 98.5 I always had freespins on my trucks. I can't remember ever servicing them under 75K.

 

[kthaxton]

With current trucks, you can spend less than $200 bucks for BD Diesel's 2 low kit and have 2 low (I assume you meant 2 low not "4 low").

 

[Regcabguy]

With current trucks, you can spend less than $200 bucks for BD Diesel's 2 low kit and have 2 low (I assume you meant 2 low not "4 low").

Yes thanks.

 

[Topzide]

Thanks for all the input. Amount of miles that I would be putting on are unknown at this time. Things could change down the road. The Misses doesn't question what I put on the truck as I've done all maintenance through the years on everything. After running all the numbers, I guess I'll go back with stock hubs and greasable u-joints. I think with $ saved, get the 2 low kit from BD for power to move a load if needed. Maybe even get a set of Centramatics. Again, thanks for all input. TDR has been very helpful!

 

[AH64ID]

Thanks for all the input. Amount of miles that I would be putting on are unknown at this time. Things could change down the road. The Misses doesn't question what I put on the truck as I've done all maintenance through the years on everything. After running all the numbers, I guess I'll go back with stock hubs and greasable u-joints. I think with $ saved, get the 2 low kit from BD for power to move a load if needed. Maybe even get a set of Centramatics. Again, thanks for all input. TDR has been very helpful!

I would stick with non-greasable u-joints, as they are stronger and have better seals.

 

[crazy jerry]

i wouldnt want nothing to do with greased joints either..

 

[dpotter]

The CAD axle does not disconnect the front axle from the driveline, just the right axle from the left. The left axle, differential, and driveshaft still spin when the truck is moving, causing drag. I would think anything that keeps additional parts from moving would be a good thing, IMHO.

 

[AH64ID]

The CAD axle does not disconnect the front axle from the driveline, just the right axle from the left. The left axle, differential, and driveshaft still spin when the truck is moving, causing drag. I would think anything that keeps additional parts from moving would be a good thing, IMHO.

The driveshaft does not spin.

There is reduced drag and reduced steering effort with just the CAD.

 

[kthaxton]

The CAD axle does not disconnect the front axle from the driveline, just the right axle from the left. The left axle, differential, and driveshaft still spin when the truck is moving, causing drag. I would think anything that keeps additional parts from moving would be a good thing, IMHO.

With the CAD disconnected, the driver's side shaft is spinning the side/spider gears. Due to parasitic drag from oil and friction, the side gears cause the carrier to rotate somewhat buy not at the rpm as if they were engaged, it could basically be stopped by putting your hand on it. The rotating carrier in turn spins the driveshaft.

The drag caused by this is negligible.

 

[dpotter]

I have looked under the truck and the front driveshaft does turn when it's moving. I have not tried to stop it, so maybe it is just friction as you said.

 

[AH64ID]

I have looked under the truck and the front driveshaft does turn when it's moving. I have not tried to stop it, so maybe it is just friction as you said.

I can tell you that mine does not spin, dads 17 doesn’t spin, and I have not yet noticed any other 13+ trucks with their driveshaft spinning going down the road.

 

[Ozymandias]

It's only drag, left shaft turns, spider gears turn and passenger driveshaft spins counterclockwise.

 

[dpotter]

Thanks, maybe I'll jack it up and see if the driveshaft can be stopped if I turn the wheels by hand.