Need help 06 5.9 4x4

[Jack Cross]

Here are some documents on that light it has a few modes of operation, at the very end there is a general statement.

Maybe read thru this and see how it flashes and when according to the description provided.

For proper diagnosis of the VTSS, the SKIS, the SKREEM, the CAN data bus, or the electronic message inputs to the instrument cluster that control the security indicator, a diagnostic scan tool is required.

Tried to grab some of the related stuff. Does not seem very easy to bypass this deal.

That SKREEM document at the bottom is also a good read.

Thank you I will read this stuff.
I have been searching and can't find much on how to get the obd2 to communicate again it has power but will not communicate/connect to scanner.
Any suggestions to try to get either problem fixed is greatly appreciated.
Thanks jack

 

[Timd32]

Looks kind of straight forward on the Data Link, I have had a few connector issues from physical damage and bent pins at the Data Connector.

Drivers have used the OBD GPS deals as emergency brakes. Yeah it's crazy. Your knee is like at your chin to do that on some of these.

Then I had a guy cut an OBD2 cable with scissors because it looked like it was not needed, again pretty easy to find. But it happens.

Since you have had some of this apart, I would go back to basics and check connections.

The +12 looks to be fused from the TIPM which I doubt you messed with, but really not sure the history, then you have ECM and PCM paths to check on.

Here is the connector view for the port, then the Data Link diagram, also found a quick PCM/ECM/SKREEM deal that summarize the programming of those devices. Might be better then what was sent last night.

A good quality DVMM meter goes a long way, especially when working on the comm circuit, low end meters could do some harm, so tread lightly with any jumpers or the sort. Back probing connectors can be tricky at time. Just take your time and do a good physical and visual check of what you have been into.

The programming is kinda beyond me have never messed with reprogramming or swapping out this much stuff at one time.

Side note have to love engineers who name things like SKREEM, really wants to make you want to pull what hair is left out and scream at times for sure.

 

[Jack Cross]

Looks kind of straight forward on the Data Link, I have had a few connector issues from physical damage and bent pins at the Data Connector.

Drivers have used the OBD GPS deals as emergency brakes. Yeah it's crazy. Your knee is like at your chin to do that on some of these.

Then I had a guy cut an OBD2 cable with scissors because it looked like it was not needed, again pretty easy to find. But it happens.

Since you have had some of this apart, I would go back to basics and check connections.

The +12 looks to be fused from the TIPM which I doubt you messed with, but really not sure the history, then you have ECM and PCM paths to check on.

Here is the connector view for the port, then the Data Link diagram, also found a quick PCM/ECM/SKREEM deal that summarize the programming of those devices. Might be better then what was sent last night.

A good quality DVMM meter goes a long way, especially when working on the comm circuit, low end meters could do some harm, so tread lightly with any jumpers or the sort. Back probing connectors can be tricky at time. Just take your time and do a good physical and visual check of what you have been into.

The programming is kinda beyond me have never messed with reprogramming or swapping out this much stuff at one time.

Side note have to love engineers who name things like SKREEM, really wants to make you want to pull what hair is left out and scream at times for sure.

Thank you I will go over everything and see if I find anything.

 

[jghflys]

My story is similar. My son and I had finished installing his newly rebuilt engine into his 2006 2500. When we went to start it it would not crank. We had been very careful recording disconnects and reconnects. Voltage checks for a couple of hours and found no discrepancies. We asked the "what else did we change?" question and the answer was the overhead electronic console. He bought one from ebay to get some other function he wanted. So, we disconnected the replacement console and reconnected the original console. The truck cranked right up. Apparently, the new console was not registered with the original modules and would not allow the truck to crank. Generally, I learned that missing or mismatched modules may be seen as a theft attempt and not allow the vehicle to start. Probably not much help, but another piece of information for you.

 

[BigPapa]

Had a similar issue with my son’s’06 Mustang. Started by replacing the body module, it was wet and severely corroded. Then found the ECM had a big crack in the case, replaced it. Took it to the dealer, a primarily Ford TRUCK dealer, for reprogramming. They couldn’t establish communication through the OBD port. FINALLY, an older, wiser tech from a primarily CAR dealer suggested we replace the cluster. Found a used one at a junk yard and voila, everything worked. Seems the cluster on the Mustang is what they call the “gateway” module.

 

[Timd32]

Had a similar issue with my son’s’06 Mustang. Started by replacing the body module, it was wet and severely corroded. Then found the ECM had a big crack in the case, replaced it. Took it to the dealer, a primarily Ford TRUCK dealer, for reprogramming. They couldn’t establish communication through the OBD port. FINALLY, an older, wiser tech from a primarily CAR dealer suggested we replace the cluster. Found a used one at a junk yard and voila, everything worked. Seems the cluster on the Mustang is what they call the “gateway” module.

On the one drawing only the SRT10 has a dedicated Gateway, the TIPM is the only thing that has all the networks tied together so that would be the gateway from what I see.

You will see the CanB, CanC, and CanC Diag. All tie into the TIPM, then the OBD2 port 6 and 14 tie into the TIPM. We've had several TIPM issues over the years.

Maybe double check that TIPM. That's should be able to return something even a fault code of sorts for the other CanB and CanC.

Deff would be nice to have an old school tech walk thru the networks.

Are you using an OBDII extender cable at all? They don't all wire out all pins at times, so check your connection cable and look at the pin out.

We have found that a few times the less expensive cables can be specific and not have all pins wired out.


Based on the last two tid bits from BigPapa and jghflys, the TIPM would be a good starting point for no communication at all, it should report back somthing. Besides your physical cable set up and verification of your adapter.

 

[Jack Cross]

Thank you all thus is great info I found a tipm yesterday and will get it today and have it programed to the truck.
I took mine apart yesterday and I don't see any signs of damage but that don't mean anything. Thanks jack

 

[Timd32]

Just looking off Google there is a place in CA that rebuilds these. Might be worth a phone call to them before swapping (as you know too well a lot of these places dont have that kind of support), they appear to be using Witech in their videos, here is a screen shot of a 2008 (3.6l minivan) and it shows a network diagram that is super clear how this exact Model works.

Just to get an idea of what the overall process needs to be on the recovery of the network as a whole.

Kinda need that for your truck, at the bottom of this page is the videos and contact info.

https://tipmrebuilders.com/new-installation/

NOT Your Truck example only.

 

[Jack Cross]

Update.
Morning all my truck is running took it to a guy and he is just saying had some wiring issues and also apparently some 05 have different turbos or this motor was not 05 turbo cause it does not have the electric solenoid on it. So I have a turbo on order. It has 4 codes I believe 2 are turbo related 1 tips
and 1 for the injector heater if this one leaves engine light on is there a way to bypass cause truck is deleted and has a banks intake.
He sent me this picture of wires smashed, right rear brake lights were dead not sure if this was the whole problem or not but he had the truck 30 minutes and sent this picture and a video of the truck running.
Again I want to thank everyone who helped me

 

[p-Bar]

Wow amazing how complicated these vehicles are today.

 

[AH64ID]

All 04.5-07 5.9's had the same turbo.

If its a stock CR turbo it's off of a 03-04. Are you sure the motor is what you think it is?

I wonder how much else is different from what your're expecting....

 

[BigPapa]

Unless, someone hanged the valve cover on the engine in the truck, the ESN shows it’s an ‘05. BUT, if someone put an ‘05 engine in an ‘06, there’s no telling what else they did. Like I told Jack, to the average Joe, all these Cummins’ are the same.

 

[AH64ID]

Unless, someone hanged the valve cover on the engine in the truck, the ESN shows it’s an ‘05. BUT, if someone put an ‘05 engine in an ‘06, there’s no telling what else they did. Like I told Jack, to the average Joe, all these Cummins’ are the same.

We just don't know what they put together, but we do know that it was a 06 ECM, 05 Wiring, not an 05 turbo...

 

[Jack Cross]

All 04.5-07 5.9's had the same turbo.

If its a stock CR turbo it's off of a 03-04. Are you sure the motor is what you think it is?

I wonder how much else is different from what your're expecting....

Yeah valve cover said 05 but the turbo says just kidding..smh

 

[Ozymandias]

For the grid heater, you just need the solenoids connected to the harness to make the codes go away. They are at the side of the passenger battery. No need for the load wires on a 5.9.

 

[Jack Cross]

For the grid heater, you just need the solenoids connected to the harness to make the codes go away. They are at the side of the passenger battery. No need for the load wires on a 5.9.

Thank you.

 

[Jack Cross]

hello again I've only started it a couple quick times since i got the used turbo installed. turbo is leaking oil out the charge side this means bad seals in turbo correct or is there another option that would cause this i can't tell if it'sleaking on exaust side causeit's hooked up. I had a 3 sec video but it would not let me add it.

 

[BigPapa]

Well, your pic is focused on the connector on the lower right of your pic so we can't see anything. Was this supposed to be a good turbo?
Have you checked to make sure your drain tube is clear and connected properly?
Is your oil level correct, not high?
You haven't connected the turbo to the CAC yet, have you?

 

[Jack Cross]

I think the drain is clear no oil leaked when I idled with the other turbo. supposedly good turbo. and I plugged in the plug to the solenoid. not sure what this cac is.oil is new

 

[BigPapa]

CAC = Charge Air Cooler or intercooler in the automotive world. Sorry, my HD mind won’t let go sometimes.

You didn’t say if your oil level is correct. If the oil level is too high, the drain backs up, and if the oil can’t drain quickly from the turbo as it should, it has to go somewhere.

How’s the shaft play? There should be zero in and out but some sided to side is ok, as long as the wheel doesn’t contact the housing.