'05 Budget Engine Rebuild

[Dysfunctional Vet]

 

[Dysfunctional Vet]

That last pic is the crank journals on #6. The neighbor journal in #5 is only slightly better. Neither one can be snagged with a fingernail.

 

[Dysfunctional Vet]

 

[Dysfunctional Vet]

The picture just above is the piston skirt on #2. Not sure why, but the corresponding cylinder doesn't look bad. I'm hoping the cylinders will hone out and the bearings will pass a plastiguage check. Like the title states I'm on a budget.

 

[Dysfunctional Vet]

I was told by Diesel Injection Services on 410 loop that the injectors can't be rebuilt, only changed. I didn't ask, but I wonder how much it costs to test the injectors (spray pattern, pop off pressure, etc...).

 

[Dysfunctional Vet]

 

[Dysfunctional Vet]

 

[Dysfunctional Vet]

#5 rod bearing showed above. W/ #1s broken ring above that.

 

[Dysfunctional Vet]

Got a decent deal on a std. rebuild kit. Bought the Mahle piston w/ it.
Didn't trust the head bolt lengths so I had to spring for an ARP hd stud kit, $460 I had programmed for elsewhere.
Not sure what to do about the injectors, pattern looked nominal across all piston tops now that I've taken a second look.

 

[Dysfunctional Vet]

Also looks like my turbo may have been leaking some oil internally. Truck actually ran strong considering the leaking turbo, broken rings, two bad rod bearings, and piston slap on #2.
No plans now to replace the cam: can't see any damage, don't have the funds, and don't have the proper tools to remove and replace the cam bearings anyway. Can't see a compelling requirement to replace it now.

 

[Dysfunctional Vet]

Tomorrow I'll flip the head upside down and check out the valves. If nothing is bad I will spend the allowance the wife gives me toward a turbo and torque converter, but that will take two months to build up.
If I had another $1,500 I'd invest in rebuilt injectors. I may just have to wait another month and just add that to the engine build. That puts me out to the end of January before I can actually start thinking about dropping the sixer back between the front frame rails.

 

[Darkbloodmon]

insufficient coolant flow

I couldn't tell from the pictures but how do your coolant ports look?

#5 rod bearing showed above.

I'm not an expert in tearing these engines down and inspecting them but that may be a blessing in and of itself; though that rod bearing doesn't look "healthy"

 

[Dysfunctional Vet]

Got to figure out where to draw a line in the sand.

Looking forward to all of your critiques and thoughts. Always appreciate the great advice I see on TDR.

 

[Dysfunctional Vet]

Darkbloodmon, the coolant ports look great.

 

[Dysfunctional Vet]

I've researched the coolant bypass mod, but I don't understand the logic, didn't make sense to me. Maybe I read it wrong. It sounded as if it blocked coolant to the rear of the engine.

 

[AH64ID]

I had my injectors tested on my 05 when the motor was apart and it was a couple hundred bucks, but I only did that to be able to sell them for more than just cores. I needed new nozzles for the QSB pistons and got BBi injectors. FWIW CR injectors don’t “pop-off”

Unless you are upgrading the turbo I would go this route.
https://www.dieselautopower.com/holset-genuine-he351cw-rebuild-kit-4031484

 

[Darkbloodmon]

I've researched the coolant bypass mod, but I don't understand the logic, didn't make sense to me. Maybe I read it wrong. It sounded as if it blocked coolant to the rear of the engine.

Its not absolutely needed if you're trying to keep cost on this rebuild down. But for what its worth I have a Fleece CB on my 03 6MT.

The logic is cylinders 5 and 6 are run hotter than 4-1 because they are farther away from the circulation of the water pump. The Coolant bypass (Fleece Design) removes the rear freeze plug on the back of the block and inputs a thermostat housing that opens at 180* and circulates the coolant back to the water outlet neck for the upper rad hose. This lowers rear temperatures, egts, and keeps the engine temp cooler and consistently more manageable across the board.

 

[AH64ID]

I wouldn’t bother with one on your build, and if you were one I wouldn’t recommend the fleece with a thermostat.

There are several block off plates for the rear freeze plug to keep if from blowing, which is a much cheaper option thou I don’t think you need that either.

 

[Dysfunctional Vet]

Darkbloodmon, I do need to lower the EGTs. This is a tow vehicle, when I need a backup for my 07.5. Pull an 8 ton 5th wheel about 5 or 6 times a year. I get close to 1,200 degrees in the summer when the my transmission is searching for the right gear.
AH64ID, if you were to get a CB, which one would you get?
I'm trying to do everything once. And my focus is going toward reliability. I'm trading the budget for time. As my shopping list grows I have to drag out the build to compensate for my allowance with durable parts.
The kid is in no hurry. While the truck is torn apart he's driving the wife's 2012 6.7 liter.
I'm also trying to learn. My 07.5 has 332K on it. No issues, but as I've said previously in the thread I know I'm on borrowed time.

 

[Darkbloodmon]

I'm trying to do everything once. And my focus is going toward reliability.

I've been down that road.... earlier this year for 3 whole months.... I'm interested as well in what coolant bypass would be recommended over Fleece. I remember in my browsing on "The Modern Shop" for filter resupply I came across a Cummins P/N for a coolant bypass on the 5.9 platform.