Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) 1995 2500 Stock started then died

[RMcKinney]

My 1995 2500 stock with 274,000 miles started then died like I turned off the key.
1st Check was fuel shut off solenoid: I turned the key to the run position then pulled up on the Fuel solenoid shaft and the magnet pulled the rod up hard enough to make it click.
2nd Check lift pump:I pushed the lift Pump plunger 55 times and it never got solid?
Since it was running then died I thought it would not take very many pushes to get solid.
Shouldn’t the pump get solid if it is OK?
RMcKinney

 

[RPosey]

My 95 with similar mileage will do the same thing. I had it towed one time, then it started. Now what I do is just crank till it starts, usually 30 or more seconds. It has done this about three times in the last year. Never fails to start after long crank time, usually stumbles and stumbles, cloud of white smoke then all is ok, back to normal. Most of the time It was parked in the garage for no particular time.

 

[MLee]

Did you break the fuel line nut by the filter and check for fuel? did you hear the overflow valve squeaking as when the fuel rushes by it?
return hose leaking? and loosing prime? transfer pump?

 

[GAmes]

More than likely you have an air leak on the suction side of the pump. New rubber hoses usually fix it.
http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/94-98-engine/58777-joe-gs-fuel-system-writeup.html

 

[RMcKinney]

Fuel Heater out of the problem

More than likely you have an air leak on the suction side of the pump. New rubber hoses usually fix it.
http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/94-98-engine/58777-joe-gs-fuel-system-writeup.html

Part of my $800.00 Dodge Dealer lift pump change 4 years ago was they left the Fuel Heater then attached the Tank line directly to the Lift Pump.
I will try the lift pump feed line in a bucket of fuel, bleed the air from the filter with the primer bulb then see if it will start and run.
If it does it has to be the tank fuel line or tank connections.
They are orginal so it could be it.
R McKinney

 

[GAmes]

Part of my $800.00 Dodge Dealer lift pump change 4 years ago.......

Now there is a dealer everyone should avoid. It has been a $100 dollar pump for a very long time so how do they justify $700 in labor, and bypass the prefilter to boot? Even a novice can R&R a pump in a couple hours, and do it correctly.

 

[mwilson]

And they did not address the fuel tank end of things. Kinda' need to do the draw straw or something similar at the same time. There was enough spare money at $800.00 to cover having that done. Sounds like you got whacked flat rate plus.

 

[GAmes]

And they probably never addressed the fuel tank end of things. Kinda' need to do the draw straw or something similar at the same time.

Not necessarily. I've never needed a draw straw, but have worn out three pumps.

 

[mwilson]

Let me amend that statement.....I forgot not everyone lives in a corrosive area.

The draw straw or the tank pick up module will require replacing as a rule if you live in an area where there are winter road treatment chemicals used. The metal 90 degree tubes in the top of the module will rust and develope pinholes which either causes a suction leak on the draw side or a fuel leak on the return side.

 

[mwilson]

Up here when I bypass the fuel heater / strainer and replace lines the fuel pick up module or a draw straw is always included in the repair. And it is never a waste of time as they are always screwed up on a 2nd gen.

 

[RMcKinney]

Might hae fixed it

My 1995 2500 stock with 274,000 miles started then died like I turned off the key.
1st Check was fuel shut off solenoid: I turned the key to the run position then pulled up on the Fuel solenoid shaft and the magnet pulled the rod up hard enough to make it click.
2nd Check lift pump:I pushed the lift Pump plunger 55 times and it never got solid?
Since it was running then died I thought it would not take very many pushes to get solid.
Shouldn’t the pump get solid if it is OK?
RMcKinney

I lifted the Driver side of the Cargo box and found a crack in the suction line at the top of the tank.
Cut off the split,pushed the primer bulbe till I got Fuel at the filter she started and ran good for 5 minutes so I drove around town 15 minutes. Shut id off wait 5 minutes and started right back up.
I hoping I can run out this 3/4 tank of fuel. Remove the Fuel Tank and replace all the Rubber.
RMcKinney happy camper

 

[GAmes]

Unless you really need (or like) the physical labor, why drop the tank if you can access it from the top?

 

[RMcKinney]

3/4 Full

I do this stuff by my self and the tank was 3/4 Full plus I don't have a way to handle the weight.
Now it is running I'll run it down low and remove the tank.
Thanks
R McKinney

Unless you really need (or like) the physical labor, why drop the tank if you can access it from the top?

 

[Texis]

Mine did the same thing at 300K ish, the problem on mine was the low voltage side of the run solenoid. There are 2 separate circuits in the units, one is strong and engages the solenoid and the other holds it in the run position but draws small amps. If the low amp side fails, the truck dies... but, the high amp side may still pull the p71 run lever into the run position. Typically creates a "start-die" "start-die" scenario.

Good luck

 

[surfbeetle]

Mine did the same thing at 300K ish, the problem on mine was the low voltage side of the run solenoid. There are 2 separate circuits in the units, one is strong and engages the solenoid and the other holds it in the run position but draws small amps. If the low amp side fails, the truck dies... but, the high amp side may still pull the p71 run lever into the run position. Typically creates a "start-die" "start-die" scenario.

Good luck

Texis
How'd you fix this? My '95 started this and it's been very hot here, I have a three year old relay and solenoid from Geno's Garage, I figured I would try a new relay first.

 

[Bob V]

I was just working on a 1994 that had a problem with the pull in circuit. I was corrosion at the fusible link ring terminal at the battery

 

[MLee]

Looks like it would be a good Idea to start at the battery and clean all connections and the solenoid cylinder.

 

[surfbeetle]

I've been posting in this thread with some of the issues I too have been having with my 1995 2500 and I don't want to hijack the OPs thread, but I feel that since we both have similar issues with the same model truck, I felt it may help all who read this. Recap: my truck's A/C stopped working when idling after towing my fifth wheel, found it was too hot since the fan clutch failed. At the same time, the fuel solenoid stopped working. Related? Maybe yes due to the heat, but I'm not sure.

I had the radiator and fan clutch (they were originals, it was time) replaced last week. Also had the fuel solenoid relay replaced, still didn't work. I spent a couple of hours today troubleshooting the wiring. The ring part of the fusible link connector broke off so I replaced it, still didn't fix the issue.

My solenoid was replaced a couple of years ago with one from Larry B's, so it couldn't be that one... (or so I thought) I removed it to test it and remembered that I still had the old one. I had replaced the old one because the threaded shaft at the end of the cylinder had wore out. I used the electromagnet part of the original one and the shaft from the new one, and what do you know, it worked. So I'm a little irritated that the replacement solenoid failed, but was it heat related, or was it just poor quality? I can't say. Either way my truck is back up and running and this time, the repair didn't cost me anything. I was already planning on the rad and fan clutch r & r.

 

[RMcKinney]

My fix for losing prime. 1995 2500 pretty much stock with 275,000 miles and some gauges
.Removed the tank.The metal return line near the tank fittings was cracked and rubber line had cracks so all metal lines were trashed. I cleaned the Fuel tank pick up screen.
Return line is Marine line connected to the orginal metal return line on the motor then one piece to the tank fitting.
Feed line is rubber starting at the lift pump to a filter then to the tank fitting.
Started and seemed to run better but i wont know until i let it set.
I only have a 1/4 tank of fuel so I'll see if this fixed the problem. If it does not fix the problem the tank is pretty easy to get out at 1/4 full.
I had a rear tank strap just about rusted through so i replaced both straps.


put the new Fuel return