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2001 Overheating- H E L P !!!!!!

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17 PSI Boost, why???

Head Light Assembly

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I have a 2001 Dually 4x4 Quad Cab pick-up. I live in CA and when the truck was new I could only go 60 mph floored towing a 10,000 pound tag trailer on a flat open highway. I went to May Madness in Las Vegas hoping to find answers. The truck has 4:10 gears. I ended up at Diesel Dynamics. They dynoed the truck and found 205 hp. They suggested a Edge Easy Box. Instead I got the Edge Comp Box. They told me I had to put a DTT converter and valvebody in it. I bought these items and installed them.



I then took my trailer on a trip. I had the box on setting 1 smoke level 3. As I went up a steep climb I ended up going about 30 mph in second gear. Boost 30, trans temp, 290, EGT 1300, Engine temp 240. I shut the box off with no improvement.



When I got home I called Bill Kondolay he told me to get Synthetic ATF. I now have Synthetic ATF. I also called Diesel Dynamics. They told me I needed an HX40 and 4 inch exhaust. I drove to Las Vegas (12 hours) to get this done so I could see thde Dyno results. While there I asked them what else I needed to have the most powerful reliable towing rig. They suggested stage 2 injectors. I now have 306. 7 horse and 602 torque with the box off. Box on setting 5 I have 433 horse and 846 torque All rear wheel measurements.

Last weekend I took my trailer out. Going up a grade in 37 degree outside weather with the box off my EGTs would easily go 1400, trans 280, water temp 240. I never heard the fan clutch lockup though.



I need help. I built this to tow, but am having lots of problems. Any ideas are appreciated. I have more story if more info helps. I tested the thermostat on the stove. It opens full at 190 degrees. the pressure cap is good too.
 
Problems

I agree you have a problem with your rig. You should hear that fan clutch come on, it roars. Someone here will fix you up. ;) ;)
 
fan clutch

Williea:

watch the fan clutch when you shut off the truck. it should only spin 1 revolution or so before stopping. if it freewheels,guess what? time for a trip to DC to replace it:mad: hope this helps..... james
 
overheating

I'm sure you've already thought of the obvious (your thermostat), but let me relate my t-stat story...



Bone stock, the truck didn't run well, but also would not get hot. I next installed injectors, and the truck had some real power, but on hills, it would start to get hot, so I just slowed down. I thought it was the t-stat, but it would warm up to 190 in the mornings, and then the t-stat opened (I could see the temp drop on the guage), and the temps would drop down to 175 all day long. "T-stat working!" I concluded! I thought that the intermittent heating problem while towing was something I would have to live with. (I used to have a GM 6. 5 turbo, so "living with" overheating problems was something I was accustomed to. ) Anyway, after adding a fueling box, my temps went up even while running on the flats, albeit running hard and fast.



Someone on the TDR recommended that I change my thermostat. I hesistated because I KNEW it was opening! However, it seems that some t-stats will seem to operate fine but aren't actually opening all the way. You see, in stock form, your truck wasn't making enough horsepower to get hot, even with a partially opened t-stat. After adding power, you only see the heating problem when you USE the extra power you have available i. e. , towing up a hill.



The Dodge's have a very good cooling system (remember I used to drive GM). It's so good, under normal conditions, a t-stat problem won't even be revealed. Remember, the more hp you make, the more heat is generated. You're truck in stock trim couldn't exceed the limits of your cooling system even with a partially close t-stat. At 433 hp :) your talking about a 'whole nuther' story.



Replace your t-stat, even if you think it's working. I did, and my heating problems went away completely.
 
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Yep, there's something wrong. We're pulling at about 21,380 lbs GCVW (rated for 21,500 lbs), and even in the Texas Hill Country in 90+ degF ambients, the temperature gauge didn't move from its normal "towing" position. Running unloaded, we're a needle-width below the center of the gauge. Towing, we run a needle-width above the center of the gauge.



Rusty
 
I've been thinking the same thing as what Ross said. Did you check your thermostat? It sounds like it is not opening up.



I'd call up Genos and order one for the heck of it and change it out. I think they are roughly around $20.





Kev
 
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