2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission 2002 Steering Upgrade "Y to T"

[Blue2002]

The steering on my 2002 4x4 has gradually became looser. The Ball Joints and Track Bar are good as well as the power steering box (has the DSS on it). The Drag Link and Tie Rod show definite looseness. The Drag Link is loose at both ends and the Tie Rod is loose at the point where attaches to the passenger wheel. At this point I would like to upgrade from the 'Stock Inverted Y Setup' to the 'Modified T setup'. I found the following part numbers on some searches

TRW DS1456 Front Draglink,

TRW DS1459 Front Draglink,

TRW ES3496 Front Tie Rod End,

TRW ES3498S Front End Sleeve,

TRW ES2012S Front Tie Rod End,

TRW ES3527 Front Tie Rod End

Can anyone validate these are the correct part numbers to upgrade a 2002?

Will the taper be correct on these parts? Have you had any interference problems with the differential or other areas? Beside making sure to take before/after toe-in measurements is there anything else I should do?

Thanks in Advance,

George

 

[NWhitney]

'99 part numbers

here are all of the part numbers that I had when I did my truck (2001. 5).



Napa Part Numbers

269-6096 Drag Link

ES-3496 L Outer T rod end

269-6095 Right Out T Rod end

269-3179 Right Inn T Rod end

269-6099 Right Out T Rod

ES-2012-S Adj Sleve



This list might be short some things but these are the ones that I used.



Just get all of the parts for a '99 HD Steering except the inner drag link end that hooks to the pitman arm use off a 2002.



With factory Alloy Rims the Tie Rod ends hit the inner rim at full lock left or right. After 3 years with this setup I have chewed off about a 1/16 off the inner lip of the rim. No longer hits.

 

[Cigar John]

Found this page with moog #s Ram Modifications I think it belongs to a member.

 

[BJMarshall]

Mine only hit the rim on the passenger side, but it has since worn the rim down to where it doesn't hit. I would suggest grinding the rod a little for clearance. My passenger side end is a little loose now and I think it is from the side load of hitting the rim. To replace that you have to buy the most expensive part. I did this to my 01 along with a DSS, and a rebuilt box. By far the best change was the quick ratio steering box. It made more difference that all the other's combined.

 

[NWhitney]

If you chose to grind the Tie Rod end for clearance be careful not to grind a V into the end. A Tight V will encourage a crack to start at that point. Be sure to grind a nice easy U or arc.

 

[Blue2002]

I decided to stay with the stock Y setup. I held off going to the T setup since the taper angle on the pittman arm side of the drag link (for the part numbers above) did not match the angle on the stock end. Hopefully someone might be able to shed some light on this topic for others who may decide to go with the T setup.

 

[odieub]

yes the tapers are different but think about it use the oem end the threads are the same. i know this because i done it to mine the only real bear is the steering stabilizer. i bought a mount from currie (high) but worked great. i have sence bought acouple trucks to part with this setup and if you need the stabilizer mount just pm me. very easy upgrade and with the oem alloy rims you do have to grind on the knuckle just a little not much.