2004.5 cummins injector wire question

[murphyj452]

so a few weeks ago I had my buddy install new ii 100hp injectors feed tubes head studs all that happy stuff well when I got the truck back I could tell it was running like new again after replacing every fuel component in the last 6 months well had the retorque done
over the weekend on the head studs then got it back and didn't seem to run the same first the intercooler boot came of at the intake horn fixed it with new clamp well then still didn't seem all their I pull off the valve cover looking at the injector wire checking for loose nuts look at #6 it appears the wires are backwards on the injector so I switch them to how the others look still doesn't seem to fix it only made it worse the truck spit out a p2149 code for rear three injectors voltage for supply group b I switched them back to how they were back to being opposite truck still isn't running top notch and every pic I have seen on google the wires should be if looking at the injectors brown on the right post and red on the left post of the injector now here is my question are they polarity sensitive? and maybe when I switched them around to how they should be did I not straighten the wire out and it grounded out on the rocker arm ? or since the one got hooked up backwards it ruined the injector? they are three weeks old I'm gonna try and ohm it later if it quits raining ( no garage to get my truck into ) mods are as follows smarty jr fass 150 new fleece cp3k head studs s&b cai gauges ii 100hp remans new feed tubes all the fuel componets were done with in the last 6 months any ideas if anyone could help out has a 5in tbe straight pipe

 

[cerberusiam]

The root of the problem is probably "II 100 HP reman injectors". I *think* the injector wires are specific to posts as there is a high side and low side to them but have never tried swapping wires. You could try the same thing on another injector and see if you get the same results on #1 to see if it shuts down the whole front bank. You would then know it does\doesn't make a difference and #6 is probably FUBAR.

 

[murphyj452]

I could see the while reman being skeptical they are a certified Bosch shop so I don't really see it as a big deal they aren't gonna be in my truck forever maybe a year but they said they aren't polarity sensitive but I'm gonna ohm number 6 and go from their I suppose

 

[cerberusiam]

You will find the being a Bosch certified shop does not mean the quality is on a par with Bosch. Remans will NEVER be on a par with NEW, if you want to limit the problems always start with a new injector. There is obviously something wrong there if the ECU shuts down the bank when you swap wires. Whether it is a design issues or a solenoid issue remains the question.

 

[murphyj452]

See this has been Satan's truck I love the truck to death don't get me wrong but the while fuel system has been a whole mess I mean looking at what you said I get it maybe when I switched it to normal the wire wasn't straight and grounded on the rocker I have to wait till this weekend to get it in a garage cause my garage just isn't big enough to let the ole big white in sad part is truck is stock height I appreciate what you taking your time and your right remand are the answer cause now I have to trouble shoot the issues I believe it's gonna boil down to a solenoid or the wire harness I have talked to industrial injection and they told me ohm it and if it's outta spec send it in and it will be taken care of I know their is a issue cause it's not surging at idle but it just sounds choppy at idle I just have to check it out driving it had a rattle as of something was rattling in the rockers not a valve train rattle or chatter today and a weird metal sound almost like a fine metal cutting sound when getting a key cut it's odd*

 

[Bob4x4]

Not polarity sensitive,sounds like reman injector or install issue or a combination of both

 

[murphyj452]

So from what I am understanding the injectors aren't polarity sensitive you could hook the wires up either way and it's gonna work from what I read and talked to ii about they said it's not polarity sensitive as well hook the wires up either way and it will work and that was from their mechanic if I had the ecmxtra cash laying around I would of just went full blown new but with the way work has been I couldn't see myself unloading my cushion Obama destroyed the coal business for the rail road so it slowed us down at the railroad well I guess I'll ohm it all tomorrow rain shine or snow and get a solution on what's wrong they also through out a idea of the valve lash being wrong diesel is a new brews to me usually I'm found tearing apart and reassembling and building ls1's but we will chalk this down as a learning experience I know the install was right I was their and helped on it and he my buddy is a diesel mechanic certified and his career I think it comes down to remans being the culprit here lesson learned now I know I have to put a turbo on it which might contribute to some off noises been getting really bad turbo bark have a brand new 66mm to go on just gotta find the time for that I really appreciate your help and for you to guide me in this process of my disaster everything was fine until I had the retorque done then the truck was a different animal just didn't have the pep anymore so i really don't know just what happens of your last name is Murphy what can go wrong will go wrong

 

[TCDiesel]

The root of the problem is probably "II 100 HP reman injectors". I *think* the injector wires are specific to posts as there is a high side and low side to them but have never tried swapping wires. You could try the same thing on another injector and see if you get the same results on #1 to see if it shuts down the whole front bank. You would then know it does\doesn't make a difference and #6 is probably FUBAR.

I agree with Cerb, Although Being a close friend of the Williams family and vendor of BOSCH product I don't promote or sell anything other then BOSCH Gen-New or Virgin New, Cross Breeds, Molested, House Mans , factory New, OE New, BMS, Etc are expressions use to describe / Sell Injectors. T&C Only sells Bosch Products on Injectors, We do Reman our own pumps in House with Bosch and T&C products, When it come to injectors I not going to spend $500.000+ on the building and machines needed to properly Spec and Build CR Injectors, Yes II has the latest form Bosch on test development, Bosch world wide will never allow the sale of in House technology , even to its Licence Franchise distributors.

Its a real mess out their because of the grocery selling that attracts so many owners. I'm not going to go into detail on buying or selling, A good rule to follow: If they offer anything other then Bosch Origins, move on You have no idea on the origination of the Products. Like a grocery store that relabels milk to the store brand, You have No idea of the producers. Bosch is IMO partially to blame for this allowing back yard BMS sales. BMS (Bosch Motors sports)is privately owned and has NO connection to Bosch other then distributing, Many believed that BMS was part of Bosch World wide, this is NOT true, BMS product are $ skyrocketing , Bosch is Now taking steps fix the issues that have developed over the last 8 years or so.

Be careful of the pretty picture sellers ,this is all marketing and selling tactics, Like BMS They are NOT allowed to own any test equipment that Bosch develops or technology in manufacturing.

Last Note, make calls and ask the tough questions, if the seller does not gain your trust move on , You will be saving yourself the headache and lost $ if problem(s) develop , Some companies will tired you out claiming your the problem and everything good on their end. claiming Contamination and charging more$, Of course when your end (Seller) sucks to start its always good.

 

[murphyj452]

Turned out that the alignment spring on the valve cover manage to break off and bounced inside and grounded out a injector that's why they shut down they all ohmed good no further issues except a boost leak in trying to chase down but I appreciate the help and the advice about buying remans but it's quite expensive for cr injectors work has been slow so I wasn't in the postion to slap down 3k+ for injectors I plan on going 100% over in the next year with dual fuelers and a big single but I needed something to get me by for now I appreciate the help now I gotta track down a pop clunk that just randomly started happening

 

[TCDiesel]

I here YA, look us up when you get their, Dual fuerlers are not necessary unless your goal is 1000HP We have single's now that make 900HP.

 

[murphyj452]

I will do I have my old one I was gonna have rebuilt and I have a new fleece cp3k on it now looking for 800hp daily driver*

 

[TCDiesel]

Fleece is obsolete, Just like Exergy will cost you and extra $G, We make 800HP on our Mild 10M way more pump at less cost, I'm shock by how easy America blow's $. Here's the Facts on CP3 mods , John at floor it was the 1st ,Industrial, Shane and Myself were with in months of each other 2004-05, the late comer's copied us and use deceptive Marketing to promote Products.

 

[murphyj452]

Im about to check you out see the price and I know I have spent stupid money just have to replace things twice instead of doing it right the first time

 

[TCDiesel]

Stop listening to the wrong People and your Bank account stay's solvent.

 

[murphyj452]

I will for sure take your advice from now on

 

[TCDiesel]

I answer My phone 7 Days a week, I prefer evening calls up to 10pm CTS Because at times during the day I'm super busy.

 

[murphyj452]

Well I'll save your number in my phone so I know who to call when i need to buy things now what do you know about hp tuners?

 

[TCDiesel]

EFILive or HP same technology , just Pick a good tuner, make calls and the one that gains your trust do business with, If they cannot answer the tuff questions move on.

 

[murphyj452]

Well I have a 04.5 truck so I was using smarty for a while just have been researching hpt and they say it way ahead of it's time compared to smarty