2wd tie rods

[Randomrunner12]

Hey yall,

What is a sure fire way to tell if the tie rods on a truck are bad. 2wd or 4x4?

Here's the story, 2wd truck developed a squeak creak while driving, getting out of the truck, coming to a stop, shaking the truck side to side or jumping on the bumper.

With this I had my dad help me while I looked underneath, found the driver sway bar link loose, tightened it up and still there, next was the driver side sway bar bushing was shot, replaced it, noise still there.

I have a lifetime warranty on upper and lower control arms as well as shocks and since its been a few years I had them all replaced, noise is still there. I even removed the level kit I had on the truck and went back to stock coil isolators. STILL THERE!!!! not as bad but still there, can't enjoy the windows down.

what I have noticed now is that if the truck is running and you shake the wheel back and forth sitting still at idle, you can hear the squeak and creak. Is this the tie rods? I can grab each of them and rotate them back and forth with almost no effort. I am leaning towards yes to my own questions just because I have had the truck since new, the steering wheel is a little more sloppy and the tie rods, inner or outer have never been changed in the 7 years I've owned the truck.

When replacing, Rock auto has the Moog for premium and a heavy duty brand called MEVOTECH. Should I go Moog or MEVOTECH? They even have some for as cheap as 50$ for both outer (2) and Inner (2) for all (4) total 50$ hahaha.

 

[BigPapa]

The RWD and 4x4 are totally different suspension and steering setups. They do not interchange.

I'd bet it's your Ball Joints. They may still be tight but I'll bet they're dry and on their way out. To check them, jack the front of the truck up and grab the wheel at the top and bottom and try to rock it back and forth. There should be no movement.

As for brand, the Moog ball joints are fine for the RWD trucks, that's what I have in mine. Get the standard size without offset. Stay away from Mevotech unless you're in a serious financial bind. I would definitely NOT go with the Moog Ball Joints for the 4x4's. Moog tie-rod ends are fine for the RWD's also.

When a tie rod end, is worn out, you will see VERTICAL movement. Being able to twist them is normal, if they don't twist they're dry.

To check tie-rod ends, lay under the truck and try to move both ends of the tie-rod end up and down, the ball joint at the knuckle and the inner end at the R&P. If there is any vertical movement they need to be replaced.

 

[Randomrunner12]

So I replaced the upper control arm and ball joints last weekend, didn't do the lower arm and ball joints.

I jacked the truck up and did what you said for the ball joints and tie rods, no play in any of them. Almost rocked the whole truck off the jack.

I have a driver side control arm that is good that I could install, but I don't feel they need to be.

I did notice however that my driver side of the sway bar where it connects to the frame is actually touching the frame and the bushing is completely smashed. I have replaced it with 3 different new bushings and each time it does the same thing. (Makes me think sway bar is bent some how?) End links are fine and straight. Replaced them as well since I have the Life Time warranty for them also and had them off over the weekend.

 

[BigPapa]

I'd say it's you lower Ball Joints, then. Like I said, they can be tight but dry causing the creaking. Typically the lowers need to be replaced more often than the uppers, they carry the bulk of the load. Do they have grease fittings on them? I doubt it. See if you can get down there and lift the boot enough to see if it's dry. You can try to put some grease in there but if they're squeaking that bad it won't help for long.

Get your Dad to rock the truck or whatever it takes to make the noise and see if you can pinpoint it. Probably easiest to open the door and bounce on the rocker panel or bounce on the front bumper. A long screwdriver with one end against the ball joint and the other against your ear or a length of heater hose against your ear and the ball joint will work, too.

If you don't think that's the issue, do the same thing where that Sway Bar Frame Bushing is worn out and see if that's it.

 

[DavidC]

Don't know if it would help but I drilled every suspension part a long time ago and installed zerks so everything gets greased frequently.

 

[Randomrunner12]

Bigpapa,

I will give that a shot and check it out. Any suggestions.on changing the lower control arm without having to take everything off?

DavidC,

Didn't think you could do that but sounds like a good idea. What size drill did you use? Might have to do that with this new one.

 

[DavidC]

Bigpapa,

I will give that a shot and check it out. Any suggestions.on changing the lower control arm without having to take everything off?

DavidC,

Didn't think you could do that but sounds like a good idea. What size drill did you use? Might have to do that with this new one.

That was a very long time ago. I bought an assorted pack of zerks at Auto Zone and just matched the drill bit just under the thread visually. I learned the idea from another member that did his. You just need to drill through the outer case until you hit something hard (the stem of ball joint,tie rod end etc) then thread the zerk in. The assorted package had straights, fourty fives and nineties.

 

[Randomrunner12]

Well alrighty then. Sounds like a good idea actually.

 

[BigPapa]

You can replace just the Ball Joint without removing the Control Arm, you'll just need a Ball Joint Press. It's not an easy job by any means and can be dangerous if you've not done it before. I'd suggest taking it to a good front end shop.

 

[Randomrunner12]

I'll just do the whole thing since I have a complete lower control arm (ball joint, new bushings).

Just have to tear the front end apart again I suppose.

 

[BigPapa]

Just be careful with the coil spring.

 

[Randomrunner12]

Yeah, we got it last weekend without a compressor. Ain't too bad, I just ain't happy about having to take off the upper but, sway bar link, tie rod, and caliper just to get it all loose enough to swap the arms.

Lol next time I get just the ball joints hahaha

 

[Randomrunner12]

Well BigPapa,

Got th driver lower control arm swapped out and my noise is gone. Passenger side seems fine but the boot is torn so I'm going to go ahead and replace it next weekend since it only took me 2hrs today and that was with finding the right tools lol.

Driver side would creak and pop just moving it by hand.

 

[BigPapa]

Glad you got it fixed.

 

[Randomrunner12]

Man was it ever annoying lol.

I tell you what I'm getting fast at these control arms lol. Change then probably every 2 years it seems.