Here I am

3K later, a ton of work and dead pedal is back.

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3rd gen steering wheel in a second gen--how to

Extremely Intermittent 2nd gear start

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Good idea Scott. I will pull that up. I started a purchase on the ECM thread link Boeing Diesel posted. But stopped because no truck details were requested. Auto, manual etc... As I mentioned, a wrecked truck was driving when it got wrecked. I'll have a look.
I am located about 1.5 hours north of Spokane WA up in the Idaho panhandle. Near Priest River.
 
Waiting for parts. I after much thought and reading decided my best possible choice would be a wrecked truck of the same build. So the white 2000 Dodge ram 3500 in the bottom of the list Big papa posted is donating a used ECM. The truck was built 2 months before mine. The ECM powered it down the road to plow into what ever it hit. So it was a runner. The reviews all the ecm reman people sell were so bad I did not want to monkey around with a potential problem that will do nothing but burn time and money. And make me uptight. The link Boeing Diesel posted is a company that is only three years old. They appeared to be a possible option and I was not able to connect them to the multitude of bad companies that do have business ties together. So gambling on a used unit it is. They want a grand with zero warranty. If I install it and get dead pedal then I have a good used ECM to keep on the shelf. Meaning my problem is elsewhere. If it does not work or runs worse than my existing ecm, than am out a grand and will need blood pressure meds. High hopes right? I have checked connections and gave them a wiggle up off idle and not one hiccup.
Reading I do see the PCM has a little to do with communication with the ECM. But the ECM makes the changes for fueling. Mopar still shows a lot of PCM's for sale. Average 451 bucks.
This problem is really frustrating.
I have a possible alternator AC thing going also. I just ordered a rebuild kit and a rectifier from ASPwholesale. A supplier I have used for all the jeeps, bulldozers, and boats. I was even able to find brushes for my plow truck lift motor here. A great store.
https://www.aspwholesale.com/

RECTIFIER (INR734P) $47.85 1 $47.85
REPAIR KIT (13766K) $39.65 1 $39.65

I will try to make sure this thread has a conclusion. So many threads never follow up. Then you end up reading forever and not really gaining much. I will close this out when I know more.
 
Still waiting on the 1200 dollar non returnable used ECM... Hopefully it will show up soon. I called Oregon Fuel Injection today just to ask if there would be any type of high temp shut off on the VP44. I also wanted them to know I was fighting a dead pedal again. They said that it could have a high temp issue but it would throw a code. No codes and in further discussion he mentioned that they had a truck with a dead pedal issue that ended up having a problem with the speed sensor in the rear differential. That it did not throw any codes and the signal randomly jumped around fooling the truck computer in thinking that it was doing 98 MPH which he said is a point where the fuel will be scaled back to act as a limiter. No way to verify this info but now I will check the connector and look for corrosion and pin alignment etc. He also kept asking about the MAP sensor. I mentioned had a Cummins new one and hopefully it was fine. So I thought I would mention the conversation on the speed sensor. My wife and I have been occasionally driving the truck to town and back for errands. About 35-40 miles round trip. Temps are hot in the 90's. Camper is still on and so far the dead pedal has not happened again. The only changes so far were disconnecting the edge tuner and bumping my fuel pressure to 15 PSI. I am not convinced it is gone yet.
 
You might want to review THIS. With added emphasis on the 4th paragraph. Excuse the redundant reply if you have. I just hate to see you buy an ECM and it turns out to be the computer/circuit board on the VP-44. It may well turn out to be the ECM. I can surely see me being in the same boat as you should the circumstances be reversed. Best of luck on figuring this gremlin out.
 
Thanks for posting the link. I had read most of the same info elsewhere. But good to review and gain more info that I had not seen yet.
My reman VP44 is still under warranty.

I bought this VP44 from Oregon fuel injection. I forgot to ask when calling this morning if they have many VP44 computer issues. I doubt he would say yes though.
https://oregonfuelinjection.com/sho...alve/rebuilt-vp44-5-9-dodge-tuner-ok-ipvr15x/
Found the info below from OFI's troubleshooting page here. Troubleshooting for several generation Dodges.
https://oregonfuelinjection.com/services-repair/diesel-diagnostics-repair/dodge-diesel-diagnostics/
DEAD PEDAL
This is the most common of all complaints on the 1998.5-2002 Dodge Cummins with the Bosch VP44 injection pump. Being more descriptive about the specific complaint will improve diagnostics. The complaint may also be described as “loss of throttle”, “no throttle response”, or “intermittent low power”, “engine only idles” or “poor throttle response”. This complaint may show up hot or cold. In our experience it is often when the engine is cold, and the customer complains of losing throttle response when pulling out into traffic.

There a few causes for this complaint but the vast majority are internal VP44 failures. The others are as follows: faulty throttle position sensor (APPS), defective MAP sensor (not sending a boost signal to the ECM for reference), a defective aftermarket performance box that ties in with the MAP and/or APPS sensor, OR least commonly a faulty ECM.

The problem will most likely be an internal VP44 fault caused by low or no fuel supply pump pressure. This causes the advance piston to stick in the advance housing bore due to cavitation damage. Another cause could be from faulty lead free soldered connections that fail over time in the pump PSG.

In order to properly diagnose this complaint all of the other possibilities must be eliminated because there are often no codes stored in the ECM in conjunction with the complaint. There are cases where a P0216 code (pump timing failure – advance operation) will be stored in the ECM in conjunction with the complaint which makes diagnostics somewhat easier, but it is still important to do thorough diagnostics.

From Blue Chip Diesel
PLEASE. When installing any ECM, be SURE to ground it to the engine FIRST, before connecting the big plug. This prevents any problem from static electricity or a voltage spike getting into the ECM which can blow away the software and or computer inside.

Lastly, I don't mind ending up with a spare ECM. Given how hard it was to find a good match, plus the risk of a "ECM repair shop" and their bad reviews, I was glad to find one and can always sell it later (or keep as a spare) as long as it has no flaws in operation. I am going to have a look at the Speed sensor and it's connection. Same with the other connectors. I wiggled them. But I think I will get a magnifying glass and have a look. Then reconnect them.
Thanks for the information and link.
 
There are a LOT of dead pedal threads out there with no real conclusion. I hope to have good results and will post them when I can with the replacement ECM and a new speed sensor that have both arrived last week. Unfortunately my wife and I caught covid for the second time in 1.4 years 8 days ago. It has been a brutal ride. I am trying to expel a lung infection to where I can go outside for longer than 5 minutes. I will follow up on this issue. Not only do I want to find a solution, I miss driving the dodgemahal. I have an alternator rebuild kit here too. I hope to lower my residual AC generation. I will be back to report.
 
Not to hijack the thread, but I hope your wife comes through in good order. My wife had it bad in January and vaccinated in June. Is it as hard on her this time as the first?
 
She is fine. She is busy hanging laundry outside and puttering in the kitchen humming a song. She fared way better this time. I just asked her. Me I got dressed for the first time in days and intended to go work on a soft top I made that needs a correction. I ended up on the couch sweating and coughing. I never even made it to the door. I feel run down. But compared to last Friday through Monday, I feel like a million bucks. This to shall pass. As I always say... Everything is temporary. o_O
 
I finally got well enough to change the ECM. It appears I just burned up 1200 bucks for nothing. I am not to happy right now. I got it installed and cycled the APPS before starting it. It started but ran terrible with a lopey rough idle. No tach input and I was able to bring it up off idle where it smoothed out and ran normal. It immediately threw a code and the check engine light came on. Ran a scan and it said PO336 Crank position sensor range performance. So why is this ECM from a truck 2 months older than mine looking for a crank position signal when the truck does not have a crank position sensor? Reading to verify the crank position data is fed to the ECM from the cam position sensor. I replaced that when I did the injection pump.
EDIT: 2001 24 valves don't have a crank position sensor. Mid 2000 model year is when they stopped putting the sensors in.
I started the repair today doing a lot of reading on AC ripple from alternators. I checked mine and it was fine at .09XX Every site I read info on said .5 was the level not to exceed with computer controlled rigs.
Taken from this article.
http://www.pvv.org/~syljua/merc/TooSeptST07.pdf

Specifically going by this.

Specifications for the maximum permissible amount of ripple vary. In general, with older carbureted vehicles, anything under two volts peak-to-peak was okay; no sensitive electronics were aboard. On early fuel injected cars, generally under one volt peak-to-peak was acceptable. But on later models, nothing more than .5 V is acceptable. It’s typically when one or more diodes begin to break down, and allow current to flow in both directions, or neither, that AC ripple increases, and strange electrical problems begin. Remember, ripple propagates all the way through the vehicle's electrical system.


So I am no longer looking at the alternator as a cause.
Any good ideas on the PO336 code from the ECM? That is kind of strange.
 
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I got my answer. I bought the wrong ECM. The crank position sensor was eliminated some time in the 2000 model year. My 2001 never had it. I have a block off plate behind the starter where they used to be installed. The donor truck was built in 12/99.
So I have a 24 valve ECM for sale. You must have the crank position sensor behind the starter.
 
Just tossing this out there I reread your entire thread just to see if there are any hints or something overlooked....off that one list you posted how many items can you rule out by means of Diagnostic measurements. Does anyone know how to that formally to rule out any of these. Maybe folks can pick one item and come up with a quick go no go procedure?

Can you read live data on these Rigs and record data anomalies by setting up some sort of trigger on the readings....

From the above with a little better breakout and reorganizing the VP44 items under item 1.

There a few causes for this complaint:

1. Vast majority are internal VP44 failures.
1a. The problem will most likely be an internal VP44 fault caused by:
1a.1: Low fuel supply pump pressure.
1a.2: Or NO fuel supply pump pressure.

This causes the advance piston to stick in the advance housing bore due to cavitation damage.

1b. Another cause could be from faulty lead free soldered connections that fail over time in the pump PSG.

2. Faulty throttle position sensor (APPS)

3. Defective MAP sensor (not sending a boost signal to the ECM for reference),

4. Defective aftermarket performance box that ties in with the MAP and/or APPS sensor,

5. OR least commonly a faulty ECM.

I feel for you, I hope you and your wife are physically doing better, hang in there. Don't mean to mess up your current troubleshooting by rehashing stuff already figured out.
 
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No sweat. I appreciate all feedback. I also say thanks for rereading and not just posting that I need a new this or that. So not having to rehash anything is great. I was wondering if one of the ECM shops I was trying so hard to avoid could possibly reflash the ECM to my VIN number. I suppose I will call and inquire this next week. If I had only known...
And thanks for the words for the wife and I. She is doing great, I am trying to catch up with her. I still feel a little under, but feel a ton better compared to last Fri-Mon. I only remember laying there that I thought there was a pretty good chance I would not wake up in the morning. I see how covid takes lives now. Working on the truck today was an absolute pleasure. Despite the setback. I need to get more miles on it to see if it is really gone.
 
JeepBuilder, best wishes to you and the Misses and hopefully a successful resolution with your truck.
Heart felt thank you. And the input you have offered is also really appreciated. As soon as the smoke clears some, we are going to do a drive. I'd rather be camping. But we are not ready for that just yet.
 
You did not point me wrong Scott. It just happened to be one truck had the crank position sensor and one did not. What are the chances with the trucks being built 2 months apart? I'm am going to call around and see if I can get it flashed to my VIN. If not then I am very confident there is nothing wrong with the ECM and maybe I could sell it to a member here that has the sensor on their motor. Crazy small detail and now we all know.
 
220 miles in the last couple days and no sign of dead pedal. I believe I had 160 miles with no issues before that. So 380 miles so far?
WE spent the night in a campground last night. Just came home and it ran like a top. Sure would be nice to know for sure. Why am I so skeptical? Ha..
 
I am bringing this thread back to life. My dead pedal has returned. Backing up some... I had to read this thread again for a refresher. Reading about my wife Liz and my covid sickness was hard. We caught it again a month later ( a third time) and my beloved wife and best friend died on October 19th here at home. I too was so sick I did not realize she was dying. I miss her so very much. I am trying to move forward. My home is for sale and nothing is happening there. I have never been on such a difficult path. I fly her remains to Alaska next month to put her to rest.
I put the camper on the truck Friday to go up to the last place we were together. A campground up at Priest Lake where we went to try and get well after the August of 2021 two week sickness. It was one of our favorite places. A very beautiful place. I took some of her ashes there.
About half way there the truck slowly started dead pedaling again. After all the work I did I could not believe it. I don't seem to be having much patience or luck lately. I turned around and made it home bucking the whole way back. I went and retrieved the used ECM I bought and had reflashed to my VIN and installed it. Not wanting to give up I went up to the campground late in the day anyway. It ran well and did not dead pedal. I am still skeptical that my dead pedal is really gone since it is so random. I also want to claim that it was not my edge tuner. Even though the Edge repair ticket claimed a bad chip, and a good repair, it was not the edge tuner. I have not reinstalled the tuner. I had about 650 miles on the old ECM and all the new parts with no hiccups till now.

Here is my new issue. With the key on, and on the original ECM, the fuel pump would come on for 5 ish seconds and then shut off till the engine fired. Then 15 psi running and no issues. The new ECM, the first run of the fuel pump is at most 1 second. The truck starts fine and runs fine at 15 PSI. Is the ECM swap responsible for this change? Some of my troubleshooting clarity has been compromised from the long term covid fog. And next month will be 1 year of no taste and smell. I am frustrated to say the least. Since the truck runs well and starts fine, Should I be concerned about the reduced pump prime time? Can I correct it back to 5 seconds some how?
 
@JeepBuilder, Sorry about your lose! A nasty time we've had to endure the past couple years! Some of what you're having to deal with sounds like grounds and corrosion issues. Contacts on the ECM in plug could be loose on the ECM pins. I'd pull one terminal out at a time and pinch them down so they would be tighter on pins. This could explain timing of pump due to a higher resistance or poor connection. I wish you the best in the new life that you've been dealt! All the best!
 
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