Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) 47 re transmission problems AGAIN

[SnoKing]

And you are sure that you have 12V battery voltage going into the transmission on the red lead??? Is the jumper still in at the PDC in place of the transmission relay? SNOKING

 

[DFerverda]

Yes the jumper is still in place. The red wire has to have 12 volts because i have 12 volts coming out of transmission plug on the brown wire that i wired into the cab and applied ground to.
I will go out right now and verify i have 12v on red wire going in.

 

[SnoKing]

So if you have these things right and it does not shift to OD, then the solenoid is bad or the valve body has an issue engaging OD. The fact that you see 12V on the brown lead indicates a circuit through the solenoid.

Through all these issues is the valve body the same one?

SNOKING

 

[DFerverda]

Yes with the JUMPER IN PLACE i have 12.55 volts going in the transmission on the red and 12.54 on the brown coming out with the key off. With the key on it drops slightly and when you start the truck it goes to 13 + volts on both.

 

[DFerverda]

Yes it is the same valve body. I watched them tear it down and clean it and put in new electronics,(stock mopar, they said too much trouble with aftermarket)

Do you think with the jumper in place you should read voltage through the solenoid on the brown wire? Or could the solenoid be stuck, and passing the voltage through?

 

[SnoKing]

So the problem is inside the transmission then if your switch is working correctly. Solenoid sticking, valve body, or overdrive clutch.

Having the jumper in and grounding the brown lead bypasses everything outside the transmission!

Yes you should read the voltage, that indicates the coil of the solenoid has continuity. It is just wire wound around and around. When the brown lead goes to ground it creates an electrical field to pull the solenoid. SNOKING

 

[DFerverda]

I have noticed since this all started, when pulling a small hill, like even an overpass while pulling the trailer, the truck seems to loose power and slows down just pulling a slight hill, it never did that before. If i rolled up to an overpass doing 65 it might have slowed down a mile or 2, but now it will drop to like 55 but the transmission doesn't seem like it is slipping .

 

[SnoKing]

Has the solenoid assembly been swapped out? SNOKING

 

[DFerverda]

Yes all the electronics were changed out each rebuild and the last one in Nashville he replaced the wire harness all solenoids speed sensor, the works, i watched him.

 

[SnoKing]

Loss of power sounds like limp mode. In limp mode the transmission relay is not pulled and the transmission will not shift into OD. You have bypassed that with the jumper and grounding brown wire which shift it into overdrive. You need a better transmission guy!

There are a couple really good ones here, however they are not chiming in!!!!!

SNOKING

 

[DFerverda]

Thanks i really appreciate all your time, I will try to get my transmission guy to break out his scanner and look this thing over again or i may just pick up new solenoids and replace them. I May just get a new upgraded vb and start looking for a better TC then i can put my mad ecm back in. Thanks Dirk

 

[SnoKing]

I would not throw more parts at it. Figure out what is wrong and fix that! SNOKING

 

[cerberusiam]

Now put mystery switch on the brown wire runing to a ground and see if it will engage OD when the switch is on.

Also check T25 and make sure you are getting a variable reading as speed increases.

 

[SnoKing]

Now put mystery switch on the brown wire runing to a ground and see if it will engage OD when the switch is on.

Also check T25 and make sure you are getting a variable reading as speed increases.

He did, you have to read it all. Snoking

 

[DFerverda]

I tapped the brown wire and put a switch on it and ran the other side to neg terminal of battery, it will not engage od. Before i tried that i did the same thing with the bk/or wire C2 pin 11, nothing there either.
I do not know what T25 is. Dirk

 

[cerberusiam]

Grounding either pin 11 or 21 should force it into OD, if it doesn't there is likely an issue in the VB.

Do you feel it lockup when pin 11 is grounded?

 

[SnoKing]

Grounding either pin 11 or 21 should force it into OD, if it doesn't there is likely an issue in the VB.

Do you feel it lockup when pin 11 is grounded?

How does forcing TC lock up pin 11 force OD engagement pin 21? Two separate circuits and functions. Snoking

 

[DFerverda]

Nope nothing when i grounded pin 11, but i only left it grounded for a quarter mile or so, curvy road and had to slow down. Nothing happens when grounding either wire, but if i lockout od , I can feel it go into 3 lockup, and take it out of od lock and it will still go to 3 lockup (same rpm) just no 4 or lockup there.

 

[SnoKing]

In post #3 you said "If you are going 55 locked out and try to shift to od the rpm's come up slightly and just hang there." That sounds like the TC unlocking for the shift into OD, and that shift into OD does not occur. If you push the button again and turn on the OD lockout light on the dash do the RPMs drop a couple hundred? Depending on the TC you have lock to unlocked can very from 200-300 for a tight one to more for a looser one. Running along level ground the difference is down a lot. I would find a transmission shop that can try a different valve body as a test. Also have them verify that the wiring to the solenoids is correct.

From post #38 "Nope nothing when i grounded pin 11"

If the PCM already has Pin 11 grounded and the TC is locked, then the switch will not do anything. To have a switch the locks or unlocks the TC you would have to cut the wire to the PCM. No need to do that, as it appears lock up is working.

Either the OD solenoid is sticking or not working, the valve body is not commanding OD or the OD clutch has a problem. Again a good transmission guy should be all over this!

Just to verify your switch setup, I would hook up your meter to the Brown lead and verify that the switch is taking it from battery + voltage to zero volts when you flip the switch. You can do this parked with the jumper in the PDC to provide the voltage to the solenoid.

SNOKING

 

[DFerverda]

Yes to question post #3 after it hangs for a while and doesn't shift to od I will lock it out and after a short time it will lock back in 3rd lockup usually around 2100 at 55. When od and lockup works it usually drops to 1400-1500 at 55 Quite a difference

Jumper in pdc, brown wire reads 12.58 volts, flip switch drops to 0.18 volts when ground applied through switch.
I talked to my transmission guy this a.m. he will look at it monday morning. When i had it there last time, it was working fine, this was before i went to get the trailer from down at sons house, 259 miles away. When he had the scanner on it we watched it shift and lockup all was fine, he went ahead and added a ground to the black wire pin 4 at the apps, just so it did not have to hunt for a ground. He thinks without looking at it the same as you but is leaning to bad solenoid or electrical problem, but i am going to try to roundup a valve body we can try if the solenoid does not fix this.