Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) 47RH mystery leak on driver's side?

[SSage]

I've been hunting decent sized ATF leaks, but I can't pin point the driver's side leak on the trans. It sprays ATF on the driver's side up to the shift linkage and then its dry, I watch it underneath while its in gear or neutral hot or cold, doesn't leak. I guess its only leaking while driving, maybe just at a load. But it leaks enough to drip and get the pan soaking wet collecting dirt and making a muddy mess. I cleaned and dried it today again with brake cleaner and can't get it to leak at home.

I will keep trying to find it, but the only thing I can think of is the sensor right above the pan, the park/neutral sensor. It does get soaked, the temp sensor not so much to the front. It sprays enough on the shift linkage to make it drip off the arm/pivot point. I'm guessing its spraying up from that horizontal sensor. Do those fail commonly? Never had any leaks like this before, usually its a pin hole in a cooler line. I had a cooler line leak at the fitting that I could tighten, my bell housing seems to stay dry after tightening the fitting below the water exchange thing on the engine. I hate leaks that drip ATF!

I guess I'll try replacing the sensor or maybe make a gasket for it, I think the temp sensor is not leaking but, its hard to say. Is there any other common leak sources around the linkage?

 

[BigPapa]

The linkage shaft seal is a pretty common leak.

 

[SSage]

The linkage shaft seal is a pretty common leak.

Thanks, I think that may be it. My shift linkage is always dripping wet and the spray pattern is centered very close to that shaft. My trans was replaced about 28K ago with a DTT crate replacement. I wonder if it was even replaced during rebuild. It might be really old. I better look at that seal close, looks like the KD-2392 allows you to replace it without dropping the VB, my ATF and filter is fresh, rather not drop the pan.

 

[BigPapa]

If I remember correctly, you can pull the linkage off the shaft and hook the seal with something like an o-ring pick and pull it out. Slide the new seal over the shaft and tap into place. Not a difficult repair.

 

[BigPapa]

I saw in another thread that you had replaced the seal. Everything go OK for you? Fix the issue?

 

[SSage]

I just replaced the selector shaft seal this afternoon. I think that was the main culprit, I brake cleaned the whole area and its all ATF free after my test drive. I used a $25 tool and a timken seal. The little tool set made the job fairly easy.

Worked okay, it took me a few tries to get the removal tool to bite. I figured out tapping the removal tool in with a little hammer wasn't working. I used a bar clamp to hold pressure on it while I turned it with an open end wrench and it threaded into the old seal on the second try. The install tool made it very simple to put the new seal in. Now that I've done one it will be easy if its ever needed again. My first time.

Thanks...

 

[Texis]

I used a $25 tool

Do you have any details on this tool? My shaft seal leaks as well (has for years). One of these sunny nice days ahead I need to get in there and fix it.

Thanks

 

[SSage]

Do you have any details on this tool? My shaft seal leaks as well (has for years). One of these sunny nice days ahead I need to get in there and fix it.

Thanks

I ordered the Performance Tool W84026 from Tool Depot on eBay, but here is a cheaper listing for $14.95 shipped: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Performance-Tool-W84026-Chrysler-Transmission-Seal-Tool-Remover-Installer-New-/231512215983?hash=item35e73411af:g:e-0AAOSwPcVVscQs&item=231512215983&vxp=mtr

Its worth it, just use a clamp as your screw the extractor into the seal or tap it in with a hammer. I used a bar clamp myself. After doing it I'm glad I got the seal remover, its fairly painless. Just remove the linkage, two levers with pinch bolts, take a pic so you can get them back on right. Make sure the TV lever/cable operates right, good time to adjust it too. My cable was too loose, even adjusted tight it had over a 1/4" of play in the TV arm, new cable got me down to the full rearward travel. Allow a little slack in it, about 1/8" from full rearward. Takes maybe 30 minutes if your handy. The TV adjustment button under the hood at the throttle was a pain, I used a little screw driver to press in the release.