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4X4 Front Drive Shaft - Lubrication point?

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Engine Brake and the Turbo

8.4 Screen getting lazy!

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Would one of those little grease guns used to grease the roller at the end of a chainsaw bar work? Just place the tip over the hole and push the other end (like the syringe).
 
Would one of those little grease guns used to grease the roller at the end of a chainsaw bar work? Just place the tip over the hole and push the other end (like the syringe).

Whle just about the correct angle, more then likely that tip would not be long enough to reach in between the flanges to access the fitting and still be able to depress the plunger.
 
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Personally I feel a needle it the wrong tool. There is a ball and spring in the fitting like any other grease fitting. Like the guy a few post back pushing in a needle can screw up the fitting. Snoking
 
Personally I feel a needle it the wrong tool. There is a ball and spring in the fitting like any other grease fitting. Like the guy a few post back pushing in a needle can screw up the fitting. Snoking

I think the "syring" that he was referring to was not the needle, but the plunger...those little grease guns , at least the ones I use, don't have needles just a short triangular tip, which probably would work shape and strength wise, just not long enough to reach IMO.
 
Personally I feel a needle it the wrong tool. There is a ball and spring in the fitting like any other grease fitting. Like the guy a few post back pushing in a needle can screw up the fitting. Snoking

Can't say that I disagree with you at all. I bought 3 what I thought were the correct fittings for my grease gun. They were shooting more grease all over the place instead of into the fitting. I could not be sure if any grease was getting in. The syringe was MY only way of being sure.

Believe me I take pride in trying to do anything on my vehicles the correct way. The hammer is NOT my best friend. LOL, and I will spend money to have and use the correct tool for the job. That fitting didn't like me, I felt I had no choice. I do not like repair shops or dealers. Unless I can stand in the bay and watch or at least see from the garage door, no one touches my truck if I can avoid it.

Plus I have a bad neck and back, my time was limited doing repairs. My reply to your quote should not be taken in a negative tone by any means. I knew the syringe was not the correct way, but I knew the grease was in.

When that ball bearing was gone, I freaked out. I was ready to buy a new joint, but they assured me it would be alright. Wow, a little longer thread then I expected to write.......
 
I bought 3 what I thought were the correct fittings for my grease gun. They were shooting more grease all over the place instead of into the fitting.
This is the tip I used and it worked perfectly. No leaks at the fitting while injecting...

Lincoln Lubrication 5803 Grease Needle Nozzle on Amazon

What's not shown in the picture on Amazon's site is the tip of the nozzle I received is rubber for better sealing.

John L.
 
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I use the needle type and have for on 5 years, the old ball still works. :eek:I just did not have much luck with the others.
 
Personally I feel a needle it the wrong tool. There is a ball and spring in the fitting like any other grease fitting. Like the guy a few post back pushing in a needle can screw up the fitting. Snoking

You can't. The ball and spring have a retainer in the back. The needle has a slant cut so the tip pushes in the ball and the grease comes out from the side
 
I pulled my shaft today and replaced the factory zerk with a standard 1/4-28 straight fitting. It was more work than I anticipated. The factory fitting is pressed in not threaded. I had to drill out the old fitting and tap the yoke for the new one. I also had to die grind the factory relief in the yoke to a slightly larger diameter so the new one could be installed. At least I won't be fighting to service the shaft any more.
 
I pulled my shaft today and replaced the factory zerk with a standard 1/4-28 straight fitting. It was more work than I anticipated. The factory fitting is pressed in not threaded. I had to drill out the old fitting and tap the yoke for the new one. I also had to die grind the factory relief in the yoke to a slightly larger diameter so the new one could be installed. At least I won't be fighting to service the shaft any more.
Didn;t realize that there was enough room for a regular straight zero fitting in there…are you sure that under higher driveshaft angle situations it won't make contact with anything??
 
He is fine, he can just remove the drive line each time he wants to get a grease gun on the standard fitting. Snoking
 
I pulled my shaft today and replaced the factory zerk with a standard 1/4-28 straight fitting. It was more work than I anticipated. The factory fitting is pressed in not threaded. I had to drill out the old fitting and tap the yoke for the new one. I also had to die grind the factory relief in the yoke to a slightly larger diameter so the new one could be installed. At least I won't be fighting to service the shaft any more.
Seems like a HUGE amount of trouble to go through---especially for a driveshaft that only turns when in 4WD. I'd about bet that no more than the average 4WD is IN 4WD that the driveshaft would live a long life with ZERO greasing.
 
I think that is a smart & courageous gamble. I bent the needle the first time I greased it.

If it works & causes no problems, jhenderson will be laughing at us.

Rvtrkn, forged new ground with his g56 transmission cooler. This reminds me of that.
 
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