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4X4 Front Drive Shaft - Lubrication point?

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Engine Brake and the Turbo

8.4 Screen getting lazy!

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I use something like this for chainsaw bearings Oregon, Husqvarna, Stihl all carry these can reload with all grease has right tip and fits in and you just push. Can buy on ebay, hardware, chainsaw supply, easy for the job. When new are pretty dry, after about three or for pushes on back. Easy solution, not messy, works great.

How many pumps do you recommend?
 
I don't have a guess about any failure rate, but it must be reasonably important since it is mentioned in the manual and there are decals under the hood stating it needs to be done. It's such an easy thing (well, not that easy compared to most grease points, but still not that hard), and only needs to be done a couple times a year, why not do it?

I've had many 4wd trucks over the years and none of them have made such an effort to communicate to the owner that this point needs lubrication, there must be something about its design that requires the special mention.

https://www.turbodieselregister.com/threads/236490-Front-driveshaft-double-cardan-joint
 
Just pump till you see grease coming out the back side.

https://youtu.be/_FJgFX7vAWY

Yeah. Thanks Too Tall. I succeeded in getting it to come out the other side twice. (2 previous years). Broke 2 injection needles this year and don't know if i got enough grease in. I think i was just careless i the heat and humidity. Will try again. I wondered if the chainsaw grease tool has enough pressure to make it come out the other side. And i was looking for an easier tool.
 
The chainsaw grease works great will come out other side. It develops sufficient pressure to fill joint when new it took 7 pumps subsequent changes 4 pumps wipe off excess done.
 
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OREGON26365 CHAINSAW CHAIN BAR GREASE
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Hope this helps metal tip fits right in available at Ebay, Hardware stores, Refills for grease or use your own no mess goes right in joint. put in joint and push pumps grease right in.


For those trying to find a front 4x4 drive shaft lube solution. This does not fit between the frame cross bar and the drive shaft on a 2013 Ram 2500 . But the frame is different on the 2014+ Ram 2500.

My experience this morning is that someting that is flexible is the only thing that will reach without obstruction.
 
Did my 2014 for the first time. I had made up a needle adapter for my grease gun when I had my "06. It was too long and couldn't get the angle correct. After some engineering of the needle shown here from Amazon, I was able to get the fitting, just barely, positioned correctly, by using a flex line that came with my grease gun. It is a total PIA. The is a wiring harness for the transmission is right in the way for the correct angle. But I did make it work. A good headlamp light is needed to free up both hands to manipulate the needle, holding it in place and working the grease gun with the other hand. Thank god this isn't a frequent ritual. I use the Red and Tacky grease, I swear by it.
 
My 2016 does not have grease points on the front DS like my o4.5 had. I recently changed the oil and I scraped, brushed washed the front drive line joints looking for the needle insert............no dice.
 
My 2016 does not have grease points on the front DS like my o4.5 had. I recently changed the oil and I scraped, brushed washed the front drive line joints looking for the needle insert............no dice.

Look harder, its there.
 
I did mine this weekend. The only way I could see the fitting was using an inspection mirror looking down at the assembly from above. It looks like a 1/4 inch circle set below and behind the second u-joint away from the transfer case. It seems nearly impossible to see from underneath looking up. Lots of light helps as well.
 
I greased mine a couple of weeks ago. Took me several tries locating the button fitting and a couple of different positions of the needle grease fitting. I used Lincoln Lubrication 5803 Grease Needle Nozzle from amazon. I have a standard cartridge grease gun with a flexible hose with the needle at the end. on my 2014 with 68rfe there is a wiring harness strapped to the crossmember. Routing the grease hose and needle behind the harness it gave me a straight shot to the fitting. four easy pumps and the lucas red and tacky was starting to ooze from the rear of the u jount
 
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Has anyone heard of someone breaking the Cardan/ball joint when lubing it? I purchased my 2013 used a couple of weeks ago. Apparently, the previous owner DID NOT believe this zerk grease point existed. I believe that it has never been lubricated and the truck has over 40K miles. Once I understood I was lubing the Cardan/ball joint I found it quickly after picking out the cement-like-clay from the zerk. I made a mess of the area with the overflow grease and was not 100% the joint was getting any so I removed the driveshaft. I laid the driveshaft on a piece of cardboard on the garage floor and cleaned off all the rogue grease. I was then able to insert the needle into the zerk and grease it really well so I thought. The grease gun was extremely difficult to squeeze and the joint finally made a popping noise and a bit of grease came out the other end of the ball joint however...it is like the Cardan/ball is now dislocated...I finally got it to move again but CV joint assembly will not straighten out! I'm guessing something got dislodge in the Cardan/ball joint and is keeping it from seating, or maybe it is broke?
 
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