Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) 99 Auto Not upshifting from 1-2

[aerialimage]

I have searched and found good info but trying to narrow the possibilities.

Purchased truck dead with failed LP and VP44, Installed them and Drove truck for 100 miles off and on. No problems. I mention this as It required removing APPs and Maybe this could effect adjustment?

first sign of trouble:

Started truck and while maneuvering around tight parking area I noticed when raising shifter back up to reverse it bound and wanted to stop someplace between N & R not quite making it into reverse. So I gently cycled the Shifter down to first and up toward R again did this twice and it then Shifted normally to Park I think this might be related and a clue?

Next I pulled out onto road and it would not upshift into second until I lift off the Pedal. Seems to shift fine otherwise although I was not positive that it was shifting from 2-D without lifting off pedal. i might need to road test again to confirm. First tests seemed to indicate the problem was only 1-2 though.

It's cold out here in MA and I have this truck on with a town for plowing so

This could be bad if not repaired soon especially considering It missed the first two storms due to the LP and VP44. I do not have the Factory service book yet. Was hoping to make some money with this truck to help it pay for itself.

Thanks for any info. Also there are no codes yet, So where would you look first? Thanks in advance.

Oh this truck has had 123,000 gentle miles by first owner who I know and trans. fluid and filter were last done about 118,000 miles looks and smells fresh still.

 

[JLandry]

The fact that the gear selector lever felt like it was jammed suggests something could be wrong with the gear shift linkage... or maybe the adjustment slipped. You might start by inspecting and adjusting the gear shift linkage. See THIS POST for instructions.

Beyond that, it could be several different things. If adjusting the gear shift linkage doesn't fix the problem, it would help to diagnose the problem better if you could test drive the truck again, but this time tell us exactly how the transmission behaves when the gear selector lever is placed in each position (1, 2, and D). E. g. : When the gear selector lever is in 2nd, the transmission starts out in 1st gear and seems to upshift to 2nd normally, etc.

Best regards,

John L.

 

[aerialimage]

Trans. Did perform the same regardless of trans in 2 or drive and with OD on or off same exact no upshift from 1-2. I don't know if that shifter was related or not. I will road test truck again tonight or Tomorrow for more data. Trans always upshifted when I lifted off the Pedal. I think initially it was definitely only related to 1>2 shift but on my way home I was not sure that it was making that 2>3 shift on it's own either. Road test to follow. Thanks

 

[aerialimage]

Back from the road test,

No upshift from 1>2 or 2>3 Pedal lift causes Upshift each time. No change with or without OD. Any thoughts. And for the record the Shifter feels fine with no more bind other than that one time.

 

[JLandry]

Back from the road test,

No upshift from 1>2 or 2>3 Pedal lift causes Upshift each time. No change with or without OD. Any thoughts. And for the record the Shifter feels fine with no more bind other than that one time.

Alright, here's what I would recommend in this order. Do one at a time and check to see if the problem goes away between each.



1. Verify the shift linkage is secure and properly adjusted per the directions previously mentioned. This is easy to do and won't cost anything but your time.



2. Replace the transmission output shaft speed sensor. This sensor is located in the tail housing of the transmission. It's inexpensive and should be available at any auto parts store. It's job is to tell the PCM how fast the transmission is turning for shift point control.



3. Drop the transmission pan. Replace both the governor pressure sensor and the governor pressure solenoid. You'll need to remove the transmission filter to get to these items. Also, adjust the bands while the pan is down. TAKE SPECIAL NOTE that the torque settings given are in INCH POUNDS (not foot pounds)! You WILL break something if you use foot pounds!



ADJUSTMENT - BANDS



FRONT BAND

The front (kickdown) band adjusting screw is

located on the left side of the transmission case

above the manual valve and throttle valve levers.

(1) Raise vehicle.

(2) Loosen band adjusting screw locknut (Fig. 67).

Then back locknut off 3-5 turns. Be sure adjusting

screw turns freely in case. Apply lubricant to screw

threads if necessary.

(3) Tighten band adjusting screw to 8 N·m (72 in.

lbs. ) torque with Inch Pound Torque Wrench and an appropriate

Torx™ socket.

(4) Back off front band adjusting screw 1-7/8

turns.

(5) Hold adjuster screw in position and tighten

locknut to 41 N·m (30 ft. lbs. ) torque.

(6) Lower vehicle.​

REAR BAND

The transmission oil pan must be removed for

access to the rear band adjusting screw.

(1) Raise vehicle.

(2) Remove transmission oil pan and drain fluid.

(3) Loosen band adjusting screw locknut 5-6 turns.

Be sure adjusting screw turns freely in lever.

(4) Tighten adjusting screw to 8 N·m (72 in. lbs. )

torque (Fig. 68).

(5) Back off adjusting screw 3 turns.

(6) Hold adjusting screw in place and tighten locknut

to 34 N·m (25 ft. lbs. ) torque.

(7) Position new gasket on oil pan and install pan

on transmission. Tighten pan bolts to 17 N·m (13 ft.

lbs. ) torque.

(8) Lower vehicle and refill transmission with

Mopar ATF +4, Type 9602 fluid.​

If none of this works, please let us know and we'll try to come up with more ideas.



Good luck,



John L.

 

[aerialimage]

Wow

thanks for the excellent info and incredible detail! I just had an old friend from a trans shop give it a quick look, he says most likely the throttle valve is worn and sticking, but he also said there is a new tps code which he cleared and it returned! The man says the first two shifts are completly hydraulic so most likely not the tps but I should eliminate that first! I'm on the road now but I'll research the tps as soon as I'm home! Still hoping to fix this short of a complete trans job and before next snow. Anyone here done a throttle valve before? Anything to it? Thanks

 

[JLandry]

... he says most likely the throttle valve is worn and sticking...

Not meaning to nit pic, but there is no "throttle valve" on your truck. Of course it does have an accelerator pedal. I presume he meant he found a trouble code related the APPS (Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor)? Did you happen to get the code number?

The man says the first two shifts are completely hydraulic so most likely not the tps but I should eliminate that first!

I'm not sure what he means by "completely hydraulic" because all shift points in the 47RE are hydraulically actuated but electronically controlled by the PCM (Powertrain Control Module) using feedback from such things as the APPS, governor pressure sensor, and the transmission output speed sensor.



Usually if the APPS is faulty, you'll have some sort of indication by way of engine rpm control problems. But ya never know!

I'm on the road now but I'll research the tps as soon as I'm home!

A replacement APPS can be purchased from TDR Forum member "Timbo" here:



Timbo APPS



or



Geno's Garage



or



Blue Chip Diesel



If buy one through Dodge, Cummins, or your local auto parts store, you'll pay a LOT more and will receive a large cast aluminum housing which you don't need.



Regards,



John L.

 

[aerialimage]

The Valve I was referring to Is inside the Trans. Perhaps I did not catch the name right? I think it was related to the Cable and actuator on the side of trans. Maybe it controls Kickdown? Im not sure?

The Code was TPS Voltage low although When he Scoped it the Signal was very Consistent with no holes or uneven response from the top to the bottom of pedal travel, It did however set the Same TPS voltage low code again during the test drive. I can scan it myself for the code number if needed.



SO that TPS Is a pricey little Bugger even with the Better deals found here. IS this a likely result of a poor TPS? I will go read the code again now and also dig in to the Awesome Forums here for a good education on the TPS, Seems to me I remembered some Re learning procedure on the TPS But I might remember it wrong, Too bad it's throwing s code when the Signal was so reliable looking on the Scope/ Scanner. Oh well I'll check the code again and check the weather for a good window to work on this.

Thanks again

 

[JLandry]

I can scan it myself for the code number if needed.

That would be helpful.

IS this a likely result of a poor TPS?

Based on the checks you've already had done (the scope), I doubt it. Until you eliminate the other common causes of shifting problems which have already been mentioned, I wouldn't focus on the APPS itself.



In fact, there may be nothing wrong with the APPS and the particular trouble code you've got could be caused by something else... like a wiring problem, the ECM, or the PCM. Once you post the exact trouble code I can research the range of possibilities.



When you have time and weather, I still suggest you check / adjust the gear shift linkage and replace the transmission output shaft speed sensor.



Regards,



John L.

 

[aerialimage]

I really appreciate all the Help,

I just used my Cheaper Scanner and pulled some Generic codes and added some confusion, I will try my Much better Scanner Tomorrow and see what that shows me. Keep in mind the Check engine light is not on for any of these for whatever thats worth.

Codes:

P0122 Throttle/pedal position sensor A circuit low input

P1693 A companion DTC was set in both ecm and PCM

P0234 Turbo/Super Charger Overboost condition

These are all the codes I found with a $300 Scanner But I will try using the OTC Genysis System With proper Chip tomorrow to see what it tells me. I purchased this truck Dead with Failed LP and VP44, After installing them I used the truck trouble free for about 100 miles. I also just replaced the Rear Diff ABS speed sensor which turned off the ABS and Brake lights. however Now when I start the truck Check gauges comes on and Brake abs light up for a couple seconds after start then go out. This may not be related but just in case I mention it.

Thanks again. Also that overboost code was on back when my friend had this truck so I don't think it is related. Of coarse I did unplug the APPs to do the VP44 so I will double check that connection tomorrow too.

 

[Skydiver]

aerialimage, this might not help, but I thought I would share.
When my truck had around 110k the transmission would not want to shift from 1-2 or 2-3, only when cold. I had to wind it out. After it warmed up all was fine. I had a power flush performed and have not had any more problems.
I wonder if a transmission that gets babied as mine was, could that cause sludge problems?
Still running with over 180k miles.

 

[aerialimage]

Update

Re calibrated the APPS and repaired a couple marginal Battery grounds,

After disconnecting the batts for APPS recalibration I was not able to find and TPS code with the Genysis scanner. Road test did not throw any new codes after a several start stops and restarts, Drove about 20 miles all systems code free so far but still not shifting, I did get it to shift from 2-3 a time or two though while accelerating very softly. And the sift was soft not firm. Most times though just no shift from 1-2 or 2-3 without lifting pedal.

I found some old stored codes with the OTC genysis I reset them and none came back yet. they were

P0234 turbo boost limit exceeded

P0236 Map sensor too high too long

P1693 DTC detected in PCM/companion module

Since the TPS code has not come back yet I am going to go search my Torque wrenches for the right size then go check the front band, and if weather and time allow I will drop the pan and try rear band also.

Not sure about chasing that trans speed sensor yet as it has a good output on data stream and ha snot thrown any codes, I will definitely chase it next if I have no other luck. I have sort of ruled out the TPS as the cause for now since it is no longer throwing codes at least yet, And before recalibrating it it was throwing codes as soon as you reset it. Going to try my cheaper Scanner again too as they seem to have slightly different results at times too. Thanks again to everyone for all the Knowledge and help. I'm chasing these items one by one.

 

[JLandry]

... if weather and time allow I will drop the pan and try rear band also.

If you're going to go through the trouble of dropping the pan, you should definitely replace the governor pressure sensor and the governor pressure solenoid. Worst case, if there's nothing wrong with the current ones you'll have good spares!



John L.

 

[aerialimage]

Update

Tried to adjust front Band, Found no resistance at all, So I think HAving never before been adjusted ( I know the trucks Last owner) I think this is another one of those anchor pin lying in the Pan cases. The wind is blowing cold outside right now and I have some other things to take care of, So I will Get back to this next chance I get. I think the Valve Body must get dropped and hopefully I can just re install the Pin? Don't really know what to expect But I could turn that adjuster by hand with no resistance so I think that is what I have here. Just found the other post where I had read about this https://www.turbodieselregister.com...ft-into-second-itself.html?highlight=shifting
Maybe the pin is in close proximity to the Shift linkage and caused the bind as it was on its way to the pan? Anyway I'll update when I know but I may end up having to just pay a trans shop as I am outside in the elements and need the truck to plow. Looks straight forward so I have not yet made my mind up but I am getting older and tired of lying on my back in the cold.

 

[aerialimage]

Front band worn, needs new band. Drum looks good, does not look like I can slide a new band in without major disassembly. My trans shop says $600 to replace band and inspect clutches. Sort of throwing good money into a worn trans I think! What to do??? Back together for now with the band adjusted but doing harm to drum if I use it much! Did I mention I allready have too much in this truck? Anyway thanks for all the great help. Not sure where I'm going from here.

 

[Spunkys Ram]

What route did you end up going? Wearing out the drum, replacing the trans? I have the EXACT same problem you did/do? Trying to get all the info I can to see what route I want to take.

 

[subodh]

good details for band adjustment. . i think my band is gone to have a problem with 2 gear if i let go of the pedal it will shift or if i use it very slowly and somtiems if i hammer it it will just rev true and go fine. .

and it shifts better cold. . what can it be should i blame my band an try to adjust?? is theese details for the 48re as well?? if i use my truck what damage can i do?? when we upgrade trannys do we change drums to?

or just clutches valvebody shafts and tc?

 

[aerialimage]

What route did you end up going? Wearing out the drum, replacing the trans? I have the EXACT same problem you did/do? Trying to get all the info I can to see what route I want to take.

I went with just leave it parked all spring summer and fall until I could get around to it! Had I canceled my insurance for the season that would have paid for 1/3 of my trans job!

I am planning on plowing this winter with it so I should be pulling the trans in the next week or so and carrying it in to a trans shop. they say that will save me a good piece. I wanted a top name rebuilder for our diesels but they all start at 4 Grand plus shipping and that's just the standard rebuild for light to medium towing! and me still removing and re installing.

I have local prices from $550- $$2,800 I expect to end up around $2,000 out of pocket with me removing and installing and transporting. That should get me a new TC and hopefully new valve body as well as all the standard rebuild kit.

I'm not yet committed to any shop but it has to happen soon or I could try my luck and see if it makes the winter!

 

[wb6tkr]

My problem (two times) was the kickdown lever in the transmission was broken and finally replaced it with a steel after market replacement. No problems since. transmission has H. D. torque convertor installed. You must remove transmission to install new lever.

 

[rabsyeeha]

Just wanted to thank everyone in advance... After reading this and other posts, I replaced governor pressure sensor and solenoid. Have yet to do the speed sensor. While the annoying high shift delay in upshift is gone, there is now a definite jump when accelerating from a stop. It is much smoother than before, with about a 3-5 second delay at times, and then she kicks in and goes. Is it the transducer or bands that may still account for this? Is there any need to disconnect the battery for a bit, in order to reset things?

2001 with automatic transmission. 250K.