2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission A/C clutch problem

[BSMcCauley]

I'd appreciate any advice on a problem I just noticed on my truck. I'm changing out my pre/post lube pump after the motor burned out on the old one, and as I'm getting ready to hang the new pump back up there, I notice that the A/C clutch plate is worn down to the nub on one side. Closer inspection reveals that only one of the 3 springs connecting the clutch plate to the hub is still intact. #@$%! How big a chore is it to replace a clutch plate on an A/C compressor (tooling required)? How long will it run until the last spring breaks? (I've no idea how long it has been running like this already. )

Pictures attached - point of view is laying on my back slid back under the front, so the pictures are actually upside down. My chosen pre/post lube pump location will be seriously obstructing access to the front of the A/C compressor, so I think I better address this now.

View attachment 68635

View attachment 68636

 

[RSivula]

clutch

ebay seller for clutch.

eBay Motors: DODGE PICKUP CLUTCH HUB KEYWAY SHAFT SANDEN PLATE D1500 (item 220060361538 end time May-04-08 15:22:47 PDT)

 

[DSeamans]

Mine broke the exact same way the summer before last. Of course we were 1000 miles from home and it hit 115*. It could last a little while or break the next time it comes on. Breaking that way tends to wear everything oblong. For the work involved, you're better off getting the whole works (compressor w/clutch and drier/accumulator). Ya hate to spend the money on the clutch and the time to change and recharge only to have the compressor die a little later. Its very hard to change the clutch in place. Napa sells a reman for $229. Thats my $. 02.



Dave

 

[BSMcCauley]

Thanks for the feedback. I happened to have a puller that fit up in there to pull the clutch plate with the compressor in place. Actually came off rather easily. Clutch surface on the front of the pulley is still in fairly good shape. I checked with the local parts stores around here and they only sell the clutch components with the new or rebuilt compressor attached ~ $235 + tax. Checked with the parts counter @ local Dodge dealer and they offer the entire clutch & coil kit for $225, but no individual components. My pulley bearing is fine and I haven't had any trouble from the compressor, so I ordered the clutch plate (suggested by RSivula) off e-Bay rather than mess with also changing the A/C drier and getting an evac/recharge at this time. Hopefully get me by a couple more years….

 

[BigPapa]

I replaced the clutch on mine for the same problem and haven't had any problems in the last 150K miles.



I don't remember exactly but the clutch wasn't available for the '95 seperately but it was available for a later model. The main difference was the electrical connector. Just clip yours off and solder it to the new clutch. I first tried to replace just the clutch and use my old pulley but there is also a difference in the pulley so you will have to use the new pulley.



Take the nut off and get you a couple of bolts, I don't remember if they're 6mm or 1/4", pretty sure they're 6mm, about 1 1/4" long and screw them in the holes I put the arrow on. This will pull the clutch off. The pulley is held to the compressor with an internal snap ring. It can be a bear to get to. I bought a cheap pair of snap ring pliers and bent them where I could get to it. Then gently pry the pulley off the compressor. Install in reverse order. The clutch will come with shims you will need to set up the proper clearance, . 016"-. 031". I set mine up on the tighter side, just figured less movement=less wear.



Good luck!



Scott

 

[BSMcCauley]

I got the plate off by using a 2" long 1/2" bolt with a nut under the puller because there's not enough head-room in place for the puller's lead screw, and then using 1/4-20 x 2-1/2" bolts in each of the three threaded holes in the front of the plate. Fan belt stays in place because the pulley isn't disturbed, but I pulled the belt off the pulley anyway because I wanted to evaluate the bearing condition and pulley balance - both seem fine to me. Plan "A" is to simply re-install the new drive hub/clutch plate once it gets here -- will post an update on how that goes. :-laf

 

[BigPapa]

If you just screw the bolts into the holes it pushes the clutch right off.



Scott

 

[BSMcCauley]

Well, I cleaned up the clutch surface on the front of the pulley by using a very light touch with a 4" grinder on one side of the pulley to knock off the high spots and let the pulley free-wheel around under the grinder wheel to keep it all even until a straight-edge showed it was back to flat. :-laf Then put the belt back on and polished it back up with a file with the engine idling to drive the pulley around (insert your favorite comedian's tag-line here). A couple days later, the sanden plate ordered off e-Bay showed up and it went on with no problem. No shims and the gap is still a bit wide, but it works, so I finished up the pre/post lube pump replacement that I was in the middle of when interrupted by this A/C clutch chore, put the tools away and called it good.

 

[Crowhurst]

Replacing the coil as well?

I'm in the middle of replacing the compressor clutch with the compressor still in the truck. I aim to replace the plate and the pulley with the bearing, but should I change the coil also? The problem was the springs broken on the plate. I read somewhere that if you remove the second circlip and the coil, the refrigerant fluid can escape, necessitating a re-charge. Also, the electrical connector looks very difficult to access. Any experiences to help me, please? So far I've removed the clutch plate, and am having difficulty removing the shaft key. The new clutch includes the plate, the pulley, the coil, and the electrical connector. Does it help to remove the 4 compressor bolts, and let the compressor tilt down and forward, while keeping the refrigerant hose attached?

Nick

 

[LRutigliano]

Go here for the complete Sanden service manual. Section 8. 1 discusses clutch removal:



http://www.sanden.com/images/SD_Service_Guide_Rev.2.pdf



Please note the compressor on our trucks is only good for approx 100k miles. The main item to wear out is the clutch. If you have had refrigerant leaks and compressor oil was not added back into the system during a recharge, the compressor itself can wear out.



Hope this helps,

Louis

 

[Crowhurst]

Louis, thanks for your interest. I downloaded the Sanden manual last week, and I have the Chrysler shop manual for the truck, and I searched this forum in detail. Unfortunately, none of this deals with the points I raised, which concern the clutch replacement with the compressor still in the vehicle, and whether or not to replace the coil, not just the pulley and plate, and whether or not to remove the 4 mounting bolts to let the compressor tilt downwards.

Nick.