Adjusting door frame to reduce air leak...?

[fkovalski]

I have had a very bad air leak on my driver's side door. I have added dum- dum inside the gasket door seal to help try and take up some of the space. It helps for normal driving, but is worse when my camper is loaded.



It seems that there is still a slight gap between the upper door frame and body. When I put my hand up to the top of the frame and squeeze my fingers (clamping motion) the air gap seals and it is quiet.



Back in the day I recall adjusting the upper part of the door frame (where the window slides) by bending this part of the frame. It was done with the window down.



I have tried to do this in a very gentle manner, but the frame does not budge. I am concerned about putting in too must gusto to try to slightly move it. I do not want to kink the frame by going too far.



Anyone adjust the door frame like this to stop the air leak? It doesn't need much.









.

 

[Wayne M.]

I agree with tweaking the frame, maybe give it what it needs. I have an air leak but it's the window channel. If I nudge the glass just right with the switch, I can usually get it to go away.

 

[Cigar John]

Watched my friend who builds custom cars do it.

He just grabbed the frame and gave it a pull by hand .

The window needs to be down.

 

[Pawpaw]

I adjusted both of my front doors, pulling the top in a little bit. That cured my air leaks.



These doors are pretty easy to adjust, but you will need a looooong chisel and a hammer. On each hinge, one of the washers is epoxied to the hinge. You have to loosen the bolt and use the hammer & chisel to pop it loose. \



Bob

 

[mtnram]

In the old days we inserted a block of wood between the bottom of door frame and sill, and/or the latch and catch (with the door open) to keep it ajar and then lean heavily on the top of the frame (with the window all the way down).

I've used the method many times over the years and never had a problem. Just don't pulse your weight against the door too much (kink the frame), just a nice steady pressure. Repeat as necessary, there is a "feel" you will notice at the top of the door leans in and the bottom moves out.

The other adjustment that can be done similarly, if the door is sagging is to insert a 2x from the sill under the bottom edge of the open door and sort of "lift" the door. This often times will cause the top of the door to rotate inwards. Just go easy on any such adjustment and protect the painted surfaces with a towel and you'll be o. k.

 

[opjohnny]

I watched a neighbor who worked his whole life in the paint dept of the Ford plant here adjust the doors on is kids car. This was in the late 70's. It was a thing of beauty the way he used the 2x4.

 

[Scooby]

I have the same air leak - especially on windy days (cross wind??) My door also seems to be sagging just a bit as when I close it, the door seems to hit the latch (striker plate) and slightly move up as it closes.



I re-read all the posts here but am a little unsure as to what to do. Do you loosen the bolts and then try to adjust (for sag) and then just roll the window down and try to "Bend" the top of the door in (for the wind noise)?



Thanks!

 

[Pawpaw]

Scooby,



I didn't bend anything. After breaking loose the washers, as I stated above, you can adjust the door however you want.



If I remember correctly (and you can verify this by looking at the hinges), you can adjust the top & bottom of the door in and out by loosening the hinges where they attach to the door.



If you loosen them where they attach to the door pillar, you can adjust for sag.



After you get the door adjusted right where you want it, you may need to adjust the door latch. I don't remember the exact steps, but there is a very simple procedure spelled out in the service manual.



Bob

 

[Scooby]

Thanks Bob,

I'm a little nervous that if I loosen the door I'll make it worse!

 

[Pawpaw]

So was I but once I got started, I found out how really easy it is.



Bob

 

[sag2]

Do not bend the window frame. Adjust it properly by moving the door on the hinges. As was mentioned the door position is retained by the use of epoxied washers. The door adjustment is made and then epoxy is placed on the washer before the final torque is done. The epoxy dries and holds the position of the door in the event the nut gets loose. So in order to make the adjustment you loosen the nuts one at a time and smack the washer with a chisel to break it loose. Once all the washers are loose you can loosen the nuts and make the door adjustment. To move the top of the door in you are going to adjust the top hinge only first. Mark the hinge position first with grease pencil so you can at least go back to where you started. Loosen the hinge to door nuts and move the top of the door in. You are only making small adjustments so go slow, tighten and recheck fit. You might have to loosen the lower hinge, but there is a good chance you can get enough adjustment by just moving the top. Do not loosen the hinge to body bolts as they are for adjusting the door fore and aft in the opening.

It sounds way harder than it is, as long as you pay attention and move slowly. If your worried about chipping paint, tape the door edges with several layers of masking tape before you start. Only loosen the nuts far enough to make an adjustment, and avoid moving both hinges at the same time.

Readjust the striker last if required. Proper striker adjustment is when you hold the latch open and as you close the door it does not drag on the striker on the top or bottom. Striker is same as hinge adjustment. Mark it first, then loosen only enough to move it slightly, then recheck.

 

[sag2]

Sorry these are from the Minivan, but the idea is the same. These photos do not have the epoxy washer, but it is under the same nut(s) on the truck. The washer will be stuck to the hinge when you loosen the nut. These photos are of the passenger door looking forward.

 

[sag2]

If you are adjusting the door top in or out you only have to loosen the bolts in the photos above. Loosen the bolts in this photo only if the door is not centered in the opening, ie too far forward or aft, or crooked in the opening.

 

[Scooby]

Awesome descriptions... . thanks for taking the time to help clarify - I (as well as many others, I'm sure) appreciate it!

 

[sag2]

OK, here is the glued washer on a truck. With the nut backed off the top hinge bolt the screw driver is pointing at the washer glued to the hinge. You pop the washer with a screw driver or chisel to break it loose. Tighten the nut and repeat with the glued washer below. Then snug up, and loosen the nuts enough to make the adjustment.

Sorry I didn't have the proper photo the first time.

 

[Scooby]

You are raising the bar on these replies!



Thanks for the details - I'm thinking this internet-thing is here to stay... ...

 

[MWanner]

I had the same problem with my driver side door. I tried the bend the frame suggestion mentioned earlier. It didnt totally fix my issue. I then adjusted my door as outlined in this post. Without a doubt, that was the way to go. Easy to adjust, WILL definately fix your problem as there is a significant ability to adjust in/out once you break the top hinge loose. I only had to adjust the top hinge to fix my wind noise.



Thanks to all for the earlier posts!

 

[Rockranch]

Very helpful. Thank you.

 

[Fiver]

As MWanner indicated, adjuctment of the top hinge only will usually suffice. Worked for me also.

 

[DFrank]

I know this post is 7 years old, but what happened to the photos?

Sag2 did a great description, but photos are implied and none display for me?