afc pressure line

[TWorline]

I fixed mine with 2 45 degree airline fittings for a semi. The head is allready tapped for 1/8" NPT all you have to do is pull the AFC cover off, clamp it in a vise and drill it out to accept a 1/8" NPT tap. I pointed both elbows down and used a 6" lenght of 1/4" big truck air line, this gives you enough slack that removing the boost line is no longer necessary when playing with the fuel cone/starwheel. Even using brass you would have under $10 in it. You can kind of see it in this photo. #ad

 

[dpuckett]

How is the aluminum housing holding up to the threads and brass being in it? I'd think the aluminum would be too soft for me, as I tinker and adjust stuff weekly sometimes. Others, I go months without touching a thing... ... . If you look, you will see a steel/ brass insert in the end of the housing where the banjo bolt goes.



DP

 

[TWorline]

Daniel:

It tapped out real good & with the red sealant on the threads it has not leaked at all, it feels real solid. With the 6" of air line I can just put it off to the side when I pull the AFC cover or take it apart at the head and leave the aluminum alone.

 

[Stab]

Banjo Bolt

Does anybody have the part number for the banjo bolt?

Broke one then lost one because I didnt tighten it enough.

 

[TSuter]

What size thread is it where the banjo bolt goes in? Thinking of putting AN -4 fittings on mine without having to drill and tap. The last time I did it the results weren't so pretty



Tom

 

[Don Tanklage]

8 x 1. 00



the fitting is special order only - i couldnt find anyone that stocks them locally



dash 3 is a little more money but closer to the stock tube size



the brass is tricky to drill and tap - that is why i went with 3/8 npt and a reducer



don

 

[Don Tanklage]

is this the pic????

I fixed mine with 2 45 degree airline fittings for a semi. The head is allready tapped for 1/8" NPT all you have to do is pull the AFC cover off, clamp it in a vise and drill it out to accept a 1/8" NPT tap. I pointed both elbows down and used a 6" lenght of 1/4" big truck air line, this gives you enough slack that removing the boost line is no longer necessary when playing with the fuel cone/starwheel. Even using brass you would have under $10 in it. You can kind of see it in this photo. #ad

thought i would post his pic for him...

 

[Don Tanklage]

personally, i have not had very good luck with those type of fittings (compression). the quick release fittings hold air better and i have never had one blow apart. does not make sense, i know, but that has been my experience. and my bike has a few different air systems on it. still say AN fittings are the way to go but when ever there are options differernt racers are gonna use different methods to get the same thing done



would like to see yours when it is done tom

 

[TSuter]

Don,

8 X 100 sounds like it's metric. All I've been able to find through the manufacturers on Summit is either 1/4, 3/8, 1/8, for metric the smallest is M10 x 1. 0. Were you able to use the 3/8 without drilling and taping?

I want to go with the AN style fittings as this is what I'm used to building and using on aircraft pitot-static systems (gives airspeed and altitude).

Tom

 

[Don Tanklage]

did you see my set up?



THERE IS A PIC OF IT HERE - (you have to scroll about 3/4 of the way down the 1st page)

 

[Don Tanklage]

yes tom, it is metric



the whole engine is pretty much metric



the bosch pumps come from germany and they use the metric system in Europe



mesa hose could have gotten me a fitting but i was going to have to special order it



already had a reducer in my AN stuff so i just drilled the brass insert out, then drilled and tapped the alum 3/8 npt



i dont know what daniel is talking about with the "alum being too soft" question but set up like this you can tinker with it all you want. they are AN fittings. you can take them apart and put em back together 100 times with no wear. you know a/c so you know you dont have to tighten a AN fitting very tight



good luck with your project



don



ps - i have an extra afc lid here. could drill it and tap it for you and send it to ya. if you really hate drilling it out that much. or i could call mesa hose tomorrow and see how long it will take to get a -3 to 8 x 1. 0 adapter?

 

[Don Tanklage]

pps - i wouldnt buy AN stuff from summit unless it is russells stuff



the summit brand alum fittings are very poor quality

 

[TSuter]

Don,



You have a PM.



Tom

 

[Don Tanklage]

i replied, did you get it?



and i prefer to use regular email over those private messenger things



my addy is MaxxWedge at MSN dot com



don

 

[Stab]

Paintball co2 line

You can use a co2 braided line off of a paint ball gun. Go to any paintball website or store and you can get the fittings and line. The threads are the same on the head but you have to use a adapter fot the diaphram.

 

[Don Tanklage]

where did you get the adp?



at the same paint ball store?



thats cool!



don



ps - what did they charge you for the line? the fittings? the adp?

 

[TSuter]

Stab,



I'm curious about the adapter too.



Don,



Just you a reply to MaxxWedge



Tom

 

[Stab]

I got the adapter at NAPA, "It was a O ring thread", so it has an O ring to seal.



The two 90's were about $3.

The line was about $10.



I had to take the diaphram off to get it all to thread together, because the ends on the braided line don't swivel.

 

[Stab]

Here is where I got my idea.

 

[Don Tanklage]

thats sweet



is the line cross threaded where it goes into the grip?



sure looks it



yea, with no swivel anywheres one of the two ends would have to go on to a removable part



looks nice - good idea!



don



ps - can you get to the fuel screw with it hooked up? that is why i turned the cover on mine 180° - so the line could be routed to the front and leave plenty of room for tuning