Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) After market fuel pump plate.

[Bart]

About 4 years ago I put in a FPP in my 98 12v. Now, while I tow heavy (up around 19K), I don't go fast. Normal is around 60 mph. I always have black smoke and I know that's unburnt fuel. Is this plate for top end performance or all the way through the power band? Should I go back to the oem unitfor more fuel economy?

Thanks guys. As usual there is so much knowledge here it's incredible.

 

[Signal73]

what plate #?

 

[Bart]

I finally found the information on the plate. It's a #8 and it's suppose to kick the engine up from the 180/420 to 230/605. The cpl # on my rig is 2174. I'm looking for a little more economy. I was getting a respectible 16 when a 10500 pound truck/camper when I had 3. 54 gears. I swapped 'em out for 4. 10s. The power train doesn't work nearly as hard now but I believe the mpg went down. On one trip back from Moab, Utah I got in the mid 10s but I was hauling around 19,000 pounds. I'm comparing apples and oranges here, as I haven't traveled without the Bronco and it's trailer (that's the extra 8K lbs)

I've been able to weigh it several times so I sure the weighs are right.

So, the same question is "If I went back to the stock fuel pump plate would I loose that black smoke (unburnt fuel) and pick up some more mpg while not loosing any power"? Is the plate for top end WOT only or all the way through the power band?

Normal acceleration for me is, kinda slow, off the line and a gps 62 mph max. at 2k rpms.

 

[Matthug]

You will loose power going back the the stock plate. However with your only mod being an 8 plate I do not believe you are running enough boost if you have smoke at WOT in the upper RPM's. Do you have gauges? Minimum gauges you need are boost and pyrometer (EGT) gauges. Did you install a boost fitting to up your boost when you put in the plate?

 

[Bart]

Evening Matthug. My rig smokes most of the time on acceleration.

It doesn't smoke at idle, decel, or cruise. I've had friend's tell me that they can tell when I shift because of the smoke disapeates for that period of time. I can see the exhaust smoke in my rear view mirror while getting to cruise speed. As a rule I don't accelerate hard. Gentle starts and stops help fuel economy also.

I have the ATS transmission, converter and controller. I have the rheostat turned all the way down, this way the converter locks up at 18 mph. I literally shift it up and down though the gears like a manual trans without a clutch. I use the 2,000 rpm mark as my shift point. When towing the 19k+ lbs fulling loaded load I hold it in first gear to about 2200 rpms and that shift coincides with the converter lockup and it's a smooth change for both gear and lockup.

As a side note the rig was built in the US for export to Canada. Therefore it doesn't have an egr device. I installed an exhaust brake that works great with the lockup converter (it stays locked up on decel, unlike oem). In addition to the exhaust brake I installed the 60# exhaust valve springs. I haven't changed the timing.

I had the Turbo go out a couple years ago while coming back from the Mesquite, Nevada area. It was rebuilt by a local company in the San Bernardino area. Stock as far as I know.

Yes, I have gauges, pyro, trans temp, and boost. As I have tried NOT to get into the throttle, in order to conserve fuel, for a long time. I don't remember what the boost is now. In the beginning of this love affair I could see 28 to 30 psi boost during wot, high rpm, and higher than normal speed. That was with the 3. 54 gears. I now have 4. 10s. When I had the 3. 54s in I'd cruise at 1600 r's at about 57 mph. Now with the 4. 10 things seem to like to run at just under the 2k mark and 62 mph. I'm also running 235 85 16 tires.

I've thought about the timing change but increasing the combustion chamber pressure doesn't excite me. Lowering the exhaust temp does.

I take very good care of "my beast" and would like to hit the million mile mark. With a 166K on it know I have a long ways to go. Especially, since I keep it in the garage all week and drive it sparingly on the weekends. I drive it a lot during trips to off road areas and vacations.

This is a lot of information to digest, but I wanted all of you to know as much as possible about BART! (Big *ss Red Truck :-laf )

After re-reading your post I needed to edit this to let you know that the boost gauge is connected to the intake by way of a plastic tube and a 90* brass elbow. The pyrometer is in the elbow after the turbo.

Did you install a boost fitting to up your boost when you put in the plate? I don't understand this question. Thanks for your help

 

[Buck88]

My 4:10's suck for economy. If you ran a larger tire it will help a little. - Buck

 

[Bart]

Thanks Buck, I agreed accept for two things. First the 235s are as large as I can go without the duals rubbing (without spacers) and second I just bought six brand new 'ens!

Yes, I think swappin axles cost me a lot of fuel milage, only trade off there is that once in overdrive I don't have to take it out one 1/10th as often as before. Do I regret the swap? Yes, but I must live with it. Unless someone makes a 3. 73 for the Danas. That might be the best of both worlds.

 

[pwerwagn]

Bart, find the wategate actuator on your turbo. looks like a can of sorts, mounted to a bracket. there should be a line running to it, this is the wastegate actuator line. If this line runs up and just hooks back to the front of the turbo, see if there is a brass elbow of sorts there. If it runs over the motor to the drivers side, follow it. there should be a brass elbow there where the line goes into the AFC housing. The brass elbow is the "boost elbow".

Im assuming since you said it used to make 28-30 psi that it does indeed have an elbow.

The #8 plate will increase fueling across the entire rpm range. But remember, the truck only fuels as hard as you push the pedal. If you are not using any more power than stock, you shouldnt be getting any worse mileage.

you may wanna take it out for an empty run and see how much boost you are making. If it has dropped to say low 20's, you probably have a boost leak. that can contribute to worse mileage and increase smoke.

If you find you dont have a boost leak (you can also pressure test it... do a search on here the thread is somewhere), and you want to decrease smoke, you can tighten up the starwheel. Take the large allen plug out of the cover on top of the fuel pump. there is a starwheel in there. by tightening it, you will reduce the amount of low boost fueling, hence limiting smoke.



My bet is you have a boost leak though, somewhere.

Also, move that EGT probe to the exhaust manifold instead of the turbo down pipe elbow. Its not accurate there anyways.



If you have any other questions, dont hesistate to ask.



--Jeff

 

[Bart]

Thanks Pwerwagon. I'll print this off and give it a try. Although I'm a pretty good back yard mechanic (2400 square foot garage :--) ) Diesels are my my fortay. I've been on a learning curve since 01 when I got the ole beast.

Thanks again. I'll post the results.