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Aftermarket wheel and tire question

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I know here we go again! Its coming to the time where its time to purchase new tires and new rims.



As far as rim offset and backspacing I know that the factory 17x8 are around 6" BS and 40mm offset. I am looking at these rims



XD Series XD778 Monster custom wheels - RIMSnTIRES.com



They are 20x9. Their BS is 6. 4 and their ET (which I assume is offset) is 35



What I have on my truck now is the stock 17x8 rims and Toyo 285/75R17. And they look pretty good but since I but the Lorenz 5100 leveling kit on (3 inch lift in the front) they tires just look too small. With the above rims I was looking at 35x12. 50 R20. I would like to go with 37's but I am not sure if they will fit properly wo rubbing?



I know I can't go with a 13. 50 becasue they would stick out too far and possibly rub. Also I am not interested in grinding rockers to get them to fit. Also I do not want to but on fender flares, I had a bad exp with them previously.



So my question is can I got with the above rims with the dimensions given? Do they need to be altered at all?



Would 37x12. 50R20 work wo rubbing or any fender mods necessary? Or is it better to stick with the 35x12. 50?



Thank you!
 
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How much wider are the new rims than the stockers? Certainly if you get the same offset, etc. , it looks like you'll be OK, but if they are wider, you could be running up against the suspension.



You may need to get a larger offset to avoid hitting the undercarriage. That's going to take a bit more research and measuring - sorry I can't help because I only have a dually to measure against.



I assume your existing tires are about 33" tall, so going to a 35" tire with a 3" lift should be fine. The extra width may rub against the body/suspension on extreme turns in the front - again, you'd need the diameter and have to measure.



I wouldn't recommend the 37" tire unless you're also considering a power upgrade or a higher axle ratio since it will significantly cramp your style in the power department.



I had taller tires on my '97 and switched back - I got tired of the dog power after the switch.
 
Oh, BTW, I bought chrome XD series wheels for my 3500 and they were stained and missing chrome on the fake bolt heads after six weeks of winter. Don't recommend running them in areas where there is salt - mine were only good for summer driving.



The chrome on the plastic hub covers corroded completely. I had to buy replacements at $65 a pair.
 
35s should run, but will stick out past the fenders a little; probably around 1. 25-1. 5 inches. I'd suggest mud flaps to keep 'er cleaner... ... I don't like most of the fender flares, either. At full lock, and full axle articulation, the tire turned back inside towards the cab will hit the lower, rear fender with 37 or 37. 5. It's not much, and depends on the amount of articulation you have in your suspension kit. I've put 38. 5s on the 3rd gens, and almost always have to trim and modify the rear of the fender-front of the cab, even with 6-7" lifts, and usually the rear of the front replacement bumpers. 37s are not as bad, and only rub at limit points, depending on your bumpstops and range of motion. I say go with it if you're not off the road ALL the time. What's a little offroad without some grindage?!
 
I cant help with your question but how have you liked those Toyo's? I was considering the same size and wondered how noisy they are and how well they wear.
 
I cant help with your question but how have you liked those Toyo's? I was considering the same size and wondered how noisy they are and how well they wear.



I like the toyo's! Quiet tire, decent wear I put them on at about 40K miles truck has ~76K miles now. I still have a little tread life prolly about 2K more. They could have lasted me longer however I overinflated them a little bit. (They are worn in the center) My own fault. Truck hasn't had any alignment issues and no suspension issues that wasn't taken care of asap. Tires were rotated every 6K.



I'd say go for them!
 
35s should run, but will stick out past the fenders a little; probably around 1. 25-1. 5 inches. I'd suggest mud flaps to keep 'er cleaner... ... I don't like most of the fender flares, either. At full lock, and full axle articulation, the tire turned back inside towards the cab will hit the lower, rear fender with 37 or 37. 5. It's not much, and depends on the amount of articulation you have in your suspension kit. I've put 38. 5s on the 3rd gens, and almost always have to trim and modify the rear of the fender-front of the cab, even with 6-7" lifts, and usually the rear of the front replacement bumpers. 37s are not as bad, and only rub at limit points, depending on your bumpstops and range of motion. I say go with it if you're not off the road ALL the time. What's a little offroad without some grindage?!



Thats what I was thinking too. Just sticking out about 1. 5 inches which I can live with. I'm not off road all the time but I do enjoy the occasional ROMP through the woods.
 
If you draw it out, the new 20x9 wheels with 35x12. 50 tires will stick inboard 1/2" further than what you have now, and will stick out a little over 3/4" from your current setup.

You're going to rub the control arms slightly at full lock in each direction (if you have a Carli track bar), or rub pretty bad in one direction and none in the other if you're still running the stock track bar. 35" tires will clear the fenders fine.

If you go with 37x12. 50 tires, you're going to have the same rubbing problem as mentioned above on the control arms. In addition, you will get some fender contact in the front if you are turned hard and hit a bump. Control arms that are 1/2" longer are needed for clearance. The rear tires will also rub on the front of the fenderwell under compression. The fix for this is to get a full replacement leaf pack that has the pin recentered (like Carli's), or to preload the rear axle slightly with a good set of traction bars.

--Eric
 
If you draw it out, the new 20x9 wheels with 35x12. 50 tires will stick inboard 1/2" further than what you have now, and will stick out a little over 3/4" from your current setup.



You're going to rub the control arms slightly at full lock in each direction (if you have a Carli track bar), or rub pretty bad in one direction and none in the other if you're still running the stock track bar. 35" tires will clear the fenders fine.



If you go with 37x12. 50 tires, you're going to have the same rubbing problem as mentioned above on the control arms. In addition, you will get some fender contact in the front if you are turned hard and hit a bump. Control arms that are 1/2" longer are needed for clearance. The rear tires will also rub on the front of the fenderwell under compression. The fix for this is to get a full replacement leaf pack that has the pin recentered (like Carli's), or to preload the rear axle slightly with a good set of traction bars.



--Eric



I have the Carli track bar, I had to get it because when I put on the lorenz kit, the front end was off center. The more I think about it the less I want to go with the 37's. I'm not really interested in changing out the control arms unless I really have to. My rear lorenz springs are re-centered pins and really don't want to get traction bars.



Your rims are the same kind (XD) of the ones that I am looking at. What size are your rims and how do they fit for you? what are your backspacing and offset?
 
My rear lorenz springs are re-centered pins and really don't want to get traction bars.

Your rims are the same kind (XD) of the ones that I am looking at. What size are your rims and how do they fit for you? what are your backspacing and offset?<!-- google_ad_section_end --> <!-- / message --><!-- sig -->

As far as I know, Carli, Thuren, and Dialed Motorsports are the only springs that allow for 37s. I previously had Lorenz rear leaves, and my 37s rubbed badly with them.

My rims are 17x9s with a 5. 71 backspacing. I like them alot!! I've put them through incredible abuse, and they've held up to everything. Before you install the wheels though, make SURE to remove the little spur-washer retaining clips on some of the lug studs. They were put there during assembly of the truck at the factory, but hold no functionaly value after things are assembled. If you don't remove these, your lug studs will break sooner or later.

--Eric
 
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