Anatomy of a Frantz toilet paper bypass oil filter

[Gary - K7GLD]

Significant interest, and LOTS of misconception surrounds bypass oil filters in general - and the Frantz TP filters especially, tho' the same general construction is also used for the several paper towel bypass filters as well.



Bypass oil filtration differs from the stock full-flow filters used on all modern engines, including our Cummins, in that whereas virtually ALL pressurized engine lubricant must flow thru the stock full flow filter, and then on to various engine parts, only a very SMALL volume of diverted lube flows thru a bypass filter, and then is returned to the crankcase.



The far slower volume, and reduced lubricant pressure, combined with the far more dense filter material used in bypass filters, provides much improved filtering than the full-flow filter, but at much slower pace. Here's photo of the restriction as used in the Frantz filter:



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YUP, that tiny little hole there in the center - about 1/8 inch in diameter is where ALL lube flow must pass on it's way thru the bypass filter material!



ANYWAY, I use the Frantz filter on my '02 Dodge:



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... and have been using them for over 40 years - so figure I am as qualified as anyone to show how thay work, as well as a few mods I have done to mine in an effort to improve it.



More below.

 

[Gary - K7GLD]

SOOooo, since I usually prefer to change the TP filter cartridge at 2500 miles or so, today was the day, and I took time to document what is involved. Here's what the oil on my dipstick looked like prior to the change - and to the wiseguys, YES, there IS oil on that stick, it's just CLEAN!



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Here's what a used TP roll looks like after 2500+ miles:



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The TP brand I use?



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Here's a shot underhood with the filter canister removed from its base:



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You will notice, there is hardly ANY waste oil - I change oil after the truck has been unused for a decent period of time, usually overnight, so most excess oil has had time to drain back into the crankcase.



More...

 

[Gary - K7GLD]

NOW, as to those "mods" I mentioned, here's one:



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What you see here, is a double thickness of 100-mesh brass screen - this sits at the bottom of the canister with several thicknessses of coffee filter material on top of it. The purpose was to catch any stray paper dust particles that MIGHT shed off the TP rolls from the factory cutting operation - dunno if it helps, but sure doesn't hurt!



THEN, to help capture any stray iron or other ferrous material, I made a gizmo that inserts into the main lube incoming flow, using a stack of magnets:



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Also note the neoprene O-rings around the filters center post - those were selected to provide a snug fit between the TP inner core, and that center post, to prevent any lube from migrating down the center instead of THRU the TP roll - it works nicely, and you can actually see the embossing from those O-rings on the inner surfce of the TP roll where oil pressure has compressed the TP cartridge against them - here's a better shot of the O-rings, as well as showing the new coffee filter material installed prior to reassembling the filter:



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[Gary - K7GLD]

So how do you actually install the new TP into the canister? Well, after wiping it out carefully, you must carefully remove enough wraps of TP off the roll to create very snug - actually TIGHT - fit into the canister:



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Here's where it is EXTREMELY important to carefully select a TP material that is wound VERY tightly on the core - density is the important factor here, not "softness" - and deep embossing and perfumes are not wanted here either! Consider the TP not as bunch of loose individual sheets, but as a solid dense filter CARTRIDGE that the oil must travel thru lengthwise before being returned to the engine...



Heres the TP being forced into the canister after trimming the outer unwanted layers off:



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Good strong pressure, and a slight twisting motion gets it done... And then reinstall on the filter base - and ready to head on down the road - with VERY clean oil!



Are these Frantz filters for everyone?



Probably not, even without the "extras" I have done to mine, they require more care and attention than some of the spin-on bypass filters available from places like Amsoil - and while the Frantz and other similar paper towel Bypass filters are normally quite simple to service, someone CAN select the wrong filter material, and then install it poorly - and then whine endlesly about the poor quality of the filter itself - just s they do with other similar accessories. BUT, if you want clean oil second to none, and are willing to put in just a LITTLE extra effort, these sure do work nice - you DID see my dipstick back in the lead post, didn't you... ?



Frantz Filters Manufactured by We Filter It! Inc - Oil, Diesel and Gas Filters

 

[JR2]

Great post Gary. I have always been curious as to how that type of bypass fileter worked.



JR2

 

[HEMI®Dart]

Good informative post Gary!



I run an Amsoil bypass. If I had to do it again I'd go frantz for sure. Hate the pricey Amsoil replacement filter.

 

[Gary - K7GLD]

I dunno, those Scott rolls cost a pretty penny too - about 80 cents apiece...

 

[fkovalski]

Gary- thanks for the this follow up thread as to the workings. One question. You use "Good strong pressure, and a slight twisting motion" to intsall the TP. It looks like a tight fit. Granted that it probably shrinks when oil saturated, but is it easy to remove. The picture shoes that it is relativly intact, so I take it that it comes out OK?

 

[Gary - K7GLD]

It takes little, to no force at all to remove them - the one shown here today fell free on its own after the retaining ring was removed. Sometimes, I *have* had to use pliers to get a grip in the center core - but even then they release quite easily. Today's, at about 24,000 miles, is the first filter change that showed NO trace of foreign material on the top filter surface - when an engine is still breaking in, there will be a FEW small traces of tiny metalic particles shining on the surface - sorta nice to actually SEE whats been going into your filter, without having to cut one apart...

 

[Chipstien]

Excellent post Gary... ... can't wait to get mine.

 

[Chipstien]

FWIW, I think your extra's are a waste of time. All this talk of fiber and what not comes from those who either A- use super soft tissue thinking they could kill two birds with one stone and use the TP in the bathroom after the truck is done with it or B- Not put the paper in tight enough.



However like you said, it can't hurt.

 

[Chipstien]

Originally posted by Gary - KJ6Q

THEN, to help capture any stray iron or other ferrous material, I made a gizmo that inserts into the main lube incoming flow, using a stack of magnets:

Gary, have you noticed any buildup on the magnets?

 

[DBrickel]

I know this is going to draw someones ire but what does using these filters do to your warranty??

 

[Gary - K7GLD]

CHIP - I pretty much agree with you on the paper dust bit - I have no doubt some does exist on these rolls, but it is soft cellulose, and about one trip thru the system catches it at either the full-flow or bypass filter - according to my oil analysis, it dern sure is NOT to be found in my oil!



As to the magnets, more overkill - only found one extremely small particle in 3 filter changes to date - but the setup was cheap to make...



As to warranty, MANY large commercial/industrial/military systems use bypass oil filtering of various types - paper towel filters are very common, and never have heard of any warranty issues - I have a string of oil analysis sheets to prove the cleanliness of my oil if need be - but MY engine warranty was dead as soon as I put the Edge Comp on my truck anyway...

 

[Chipstien]

Is it me or does it seem that PT elements would not filter as good as a TP element because of how loosely rolled paper towels are. Am I missing something?

 

[Gary - K7GLD]

Chip, *I* sure don't like the looser-wound paper towels in this sort of service - the looseness of the rolls, combined with the inevitable embossing of the individual sheets would SEEM to compromise their filtering capability - maybe someone reading has first-hand experience - hopefully with oil analysis tossed in... ?

 

[GWDiesel]

Frantz Filter

Gary-KJ60,Great post. How much is the conversion over to TP bypass filter? I hope the Kit wont break the warranty? GWD

 

[Chipstien]

Re: Frantz Filter

Originally posted by GWDiesel

Gary-KJ60,Great post. How much is the conversion over to TP bypass filter? I hope the Kit wont break the warranty? GWD

There is no converting to do. You still have the factory oil filter. You are just adding a secondary filter, (bypass filter), into the mix. Remember that the Bypass Filter is ran in parallel with the factory filter. Keep in mind that a bypass filter is "not" designed to be used as a full flow since they are far too restrictive. They only filter about 10% of the oil at a time.



Warrantee coverage is a hard thing to predict. I am sure that there are some dealers that will find any excuse not to warrantee something. Likewise, I know a few "old timers" that would complement you for running a extra filter. It is all a matter of how your dealer is. Wouldn't hurt to ask them. As for prices... . they are listed in the website that Gary posted. www.wefilterit.com Click on ORDER and that will bring up the prices.

 

[GWDiesel]

Frantz filter

Chipstien ! thanks for the address I have posted it in my address book for future use, Jerry

 

[Vaughn MacKenzie]

Gary this is a great post. You may recall when Frantz was being discussed I steered away from them for 2 reasons:



• Frequency of filter media (TP) changes

• Amount of typical oil loss with each change (1 quart)



The key tip of letting it sit overnight really solves Problem #2, I appreciate you sharing that. I'm going to have to give this second thought. I have always been leary of Frantz because we had one on our Duster when I was a kid and some of the TP tore free and plugged a gallery in the crank and the Slant 6 ended up with a trashed rod bearing at 46,000 miles. But I'm sure my dad was to blame, he wasn't known to be careful with stuff or have much affinity for anything mechanical (that engine went another 200,000 miles after that despite horrible maintenance).



Gary how many miles on that oil change, 2500 miles? Looks like you just put it in



Vaughn