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2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission anyone put a drain plug in the stock trans pan?

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i am thinking about it and curious as to if anyone has done it? seems like it would be a lot easier to drain... Rammin On has convinced me to change my trans fluid more often. really don't need a larger more expensive pan, just one with a nice easy drain plug.



tia,

scott.
 
Been there,done that,works slick. Cut a 1/2" pipe coupling in half and welded it on after drilling a hole in the lowest part of the pan. Leak tested it and installed. Pull the plug and let it fly.
 
Yup...

I tried a B&M kit in my T/A a number of years ago. Lots of folks on here use them without problems but I had a few so I do it differently now.



IF you can weld (wirefeed is easiest or use a 6013 1/8" rod), go to a NAPA store (others should have these as well) and get a 1/2-20 nut (fine thread) and a 1/2-20 drain plug with a magnet in it to help trap metal. The pan already has that big magnet in it but more is better. Be sure and get a drain plug as that will come with a gasket.



Drill a 17/32 hole in the pan, put the nut on the inside and thead the bolt into the nut. Make sure the seal is removed or, better yet, use a different bolt. Tighten it down so the pan is sanwiched between the nut and bolt. At this point, go on the inside and weld the nut to the pan. Let it cool completely and then remove the bolt. Touch up the paint on the outside of the pan and your good to go.



Be sure that you don't catch the bolt with the welder or you'll have fun getting the bolt out of the nut to install the seal. This won't get all the oil out, you'll have a little left in the pan but it's a lot nicer than no drain.
 
You mean to tell me that you guys don't like 12 quarts of stinky burnt transmission fluid running down your arm and back. :p :D
 
I asked a high school dropout looking dealer mechanic how they dropped the pan without taking a bath. He said they leave a couple of bolts in one end to keep it from falling all the way off. I asked, "well doesn't that bend the pan?" His reply, "Hey you might have something there, a lot of them leak and we have to go back and seal them with silicone"...
 
The idea of welding a nut on while holding it in place makes sense. Wouldn't it be better to place the nut on the OUTSIDE of the pan so as to drain more fluid? Or is there a valid reason for placing the nut on the inside?
 
Drain plug

The nut needs to be on the inside so that the outside of the pan

is flat for the drain plug gasket to seal against. The nut is straight

thread so the threads don't seal. The nut could be grooved where

it rests against the pan 180 degrees apart and then welded away

from the grooves but that isn't really that important, the main

objective is to get the level low enough so that you don't make a

mess when you drop the pan.



Gus
 
I got one of those drain kits. I think it was from NAPA. It leaked a little. I solved that by getting a nylon washer from the hardware store so that the pan metal was sandwiched between the washer from the kit and the one I bought. No leaks since then for many miles. I mention this because a lot of members may not have a way to weld the pan. I put it on the back of the pan so if I managed to get in some situation where I scraped the pan (I somehow do that sort of thing sometimes) the drain plug would survive. It drains enuff so that while there is a little left in the pan, I can remove the pan easy without a bath. Ya gotta change the filter every fluid change anyway.
 
drain plug kit

I put one of these NAPA ones on my wife's truck. Drill the 1/2" hole and it bolts on. You have to make sure you get the pan flattened out good as it'll pooch out a little around the hole. I buffed it with emory cloth good as well. The kit is like a hollow bolt with a small bolt that goes in the center. You clamp the nut down on the inside of the pan and tighten it and it seals. The smaller inner bolt seals with a small oring. Is it clear as mud now?



dan
 
If it decides to leak go to a hardware store and look in the plumbing section. Get a flat plastic washer to put behind the nut inside the pan. That will stop it.
 
i got a drain plug kit from genos. after about the second change the nylon washer crawled out from the steel washer enough to leak and tightening it further made it worse. I bought a couple of copper brakeline washers and put them underneath and that put an end to the leaks. :)
 
727

Why not go to the junk yard and get an old 727 trans pan same bolt pattern and holds a little more fluid plus it has a factory drain plug.
 
Better make sure it fits first. These transmission pans have a bulge because of the big band piston for the front band. The 727 I had in my old van didn't have that bulge.
 
727

The 47 trans is a 727 with electric over drive added on back. I was told the pans match, have not done the change yet.
 
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