Automatic with Exhaust Brake

[RagingCajun]

I have a 99" QC 3/4 ton automatic and tow a 5th wheel with a weight of 14,000. The only mod's that was made to the engine is a EZ box and pillar gauges.

I'm considering on installing an exhaust brake to help with stopping this big rig :{ and was wondering with only this modification and a stock transmission, would a pac brake work with a stock transmission and is there anything else that I could do to help on braking. I know that an exhaust brake would help save on the truck and trailer brake, It would also be a + in safety.



My considerations is a Pac Brake and some type of controller. Is their and recommendations and if so. What.



Thanks for your comments.

 

[chuck3]

Won't work, ever notice what happens when you let off the throttle? The trans goes into the unlocked possition, therefore no help. You can get a smart controller from Bill K. which will keep the trans locked in 3rd and OD.

Would highly recommend the trans. upgrade before doing any of above, as the trans will not hold up for long.

I have a friend with the DTT trans. upgrade, smart controller and exhaust brake and it works great.

 

[Steve M]

I've never received a satisfactory answer to this question. People who use gas engines and automatics in their pickups to tow their trailers and 5th wheels down the steep grades use engine braking to hold their rigs back without any mods to the transmission. Why isn't an exhaust brake offered for our automatic equipped diesels that offers engine braking hp equal to that of the gassers? It would be far better than the near nothing we have now for engine braking. Even without an exhaust brake I'll drop it into second on the downhills and it'll pull the rpm up over 2,000 and it gives a small amount of resistance. Not enough to brag about but even alittle is better than nothing.

 

[Snow man]

Ragincagin, You do need to modify the trans if you want a reliable towing setup. In all seriousness,its a miracle you havent fried it already with a 14K 5th wheel,and an EZ box. You need to contact one of the many transmission vendors of choice . I like DTT,but they arent the only one,but there stuff has held up great for me,and my Dad's truck,both are driven hard. I am not a trans expert,but I know you need to do some work to your transmission if you want it to live,even without the E brake. I have a DTT TC,VB,and upgrade kit,a smart controller,and a pacbrake,yes it wasnt cheap,but the best never is,and cheap ends up costing more when it wont do the job it was intended to do. My setup is very nice for towing,and I feel it is very similar to what you need as well. Look at some old transmission threads,and make some calls,talk to the vendors,and see who you feel the best with. You are going to love the total package,with the controller,and ebrake working together,it will be a pleasure towing.

 

[JGarcia]

No transmission expert here, either, but I do know that with the EZ or exhaust brake, your stock torque converter will eventually begin to slip, and you will ultimately have to replace.



JRG

 

[Bob Wagner]

call and talk to the auto transmission Guru

Bill Kondolay toll free 1 866 504 4002





He has seen boths sides of the coin more than anyone else

 

[Ramboy]

RagingCajun,

I tow an 18K 5th wheel and I can say that the e-brake makes a world of difference in slowing the thing down. Transmission up-grades are necessary as well as a smart controller. If you plan on keeping your truck a long time, spend the money. It is well worth it.

 

[thepitts]

Controller

Can the smart controller be used with any transmission that has been upgraded or must it be used with DTT items?



Thanks

 

[Wolfgang]

As was said before by othersI have all the DTT goody's and it was the best money I have spent. You do need something to tell the transmission to lock up the Torque Converter with out this you are basically free wheeling.



I don't know whay the smart controller couldn't work with other transmissions but call Bill K. and he can tell you if it will.

 

[BLee]

My PacBrake works great, but ya gotta have an aftermarket T/C, VB and SmartController first. So far, my ATS stuff has performed flawlessly. Try it, you'll like it.

Bill

 

[chuck3]

I'm sure you could use it with the different trans. but you won't have the second gear lockup like you do with the DTT trans.

 

[Snow man]

You'll have to call Bill K,but you may not have the 4-3 locked downshift either without having his VB. For the costs invlved it would be easier to just match the contoller with right VB,and have the setup work perfect,no matter if its the DTT or ATS setup,it should be matched IMO. I do know that the smart contoller will keep your tc locked for braking,and the tc saver will work,but the 2nd lockup,and 4-3 locked downshift are not likely work.

 

[RADdodge]

I have the DTT system and I'd agree on everything said above about it. I will add that on the open road, the Smartcontroller and PacBrake will control your deceleration in OD and 3rd quite well, but IMhO, Bill's lockup in second gear is where his system really shines. Steep down grades aren't so scary anymore!

 

[Stranger]

I've got to chime in here...

I scale at 21K+ with the trailer. I have a DTT built by Bill K. I do not have a Smart TC Controller (want one, though). Through many many miles of slowing this circus I have found that when I crest the hill, I've probably turned off the OD, if I keep the smallest; Read this as just a fly's weight amount of pressure on the throttle I can keep the TC locked until I'm doing less than 35 MPH.



There have been threads advising activating the cruise to hold 37 or so, doesn't work when you need the lockup, it quits.



With foot operation after time you will be able to feel just how much pressure you need. If you let your foot off over 2 grand it will stay locked up but when you get to 1750 or so it unlocks.



So what I'm trying to say is "Keep your foot in it, very lightly though!" Similar to what my Daddy used to tell me about racecars, "If you've got a problem, gas it and get out of the problem!"

 

[Bhale]

I'll be getting an exhaust brake in the next few months, budget/wife willing, but having a good transmission is a must. From what I know through many hours of chatting with the folks at ATS, DTT and BD, the torque converter is the weak link in these trannys. Under load they slip when locked up (50+mph) which releases clutch material into the transmission fluid and eventually destroys the transmission its self. Like the others have said, get the transmission done first.



Next, we need to be able to control when the TC is locked up in order for the exhaust brake to be effective. The lock up is necessary to transfer braking power from the engine to the transmission and eventually to the tires. Without TC lock up you exhaust brake will have little to no effect. Since I have the ATS transmission, TC and controller and have not driven a truck with any of the other guys tranys I can only speak about what I have so here is how mine works.



The controller is an electrical device that is wired into the PCM behind the air filter box (4 wires) and the control is mounted in the cab. The control consists of a small electronic box, a variable resistor (like the volume knob on your stereo) and a small LED. The variable resistor allows you to select at what speed you want the TC to lock up and it ranges from about 18 mph all the way up to ~50 mph or what ever speed you get lock up now. It also has an OFF position, which allows everything to run as stock. Running empty I like to set mine to lock up at 40 mph. Once I reach 40, the TC locks up and stays locked as long as I maintain 40 mph or more. The transmission will up shift and down shift with the TC locked but this is not recommended with a stock transmission. Once I drop below 40, the TC unlocks. As I said, you pick the speed by turning the knob on the variable resistor. The LED tells you when your locked up.



The controller will also control your exhaust brake. As I understand it, you set the TC lock up speed, turn on the exhaust brake and drive normally. When you take your foot off the go pedal, the controller will turn the exhaust brake on. Step on the pedal again and it turns the exhaust brake off. Turning the controller off gives you manual control of the exhaust brake.



Sorry for the looooong post, the coffee is starting to take effect…



Feel free to email/PM me if I can answer some questions for you.

Brian