Batteries took a dump

[p-Bar]

I don't have a high current charger. Not sure if it would have made a difference.

 

[brucejohnson]

I don't have a high current charger. Not sure if it would have made a difference.

There are a number of variables involved in battery usage and maintenance. Certain conditions may encourage sulfation of the plates. Higher currents help minimize or break up the sulfation process.
Is your charger a trickle or float charger? What is the charging amperage? How long is it connected for when used? What is the state of charge when hooking the charger on, and when disconnecting? Voltage after charging, after rest (stabilized), after load test? Age and use history (heavy, light, charge times/current after use, etc.) of the battery.
So many variables involved.

 

[p-Bar]

Never use a trickle, truck sits for weeks and fires right up. When I did go to use truck it fired right up, I moved trailer up the street parked the truck and next day it wouldn't start. I used to use smart charger on Traver batts to I switched to lithium.

 

[Topzide]

My 5 year old batteries are starting to give me issues! Have had the P2609 code pop twice. Checked the batteries. Passenger showed 55% charge with drivers showing 100% charge. Charged up the passengers side at 15 amps with smart charger. Checked it after a few hours after charging, showed 100%.

Next morning, temp around 40, no MIL. Day later after 130 miles driven, same temps, MIL lamp on! Checked batteries again with same readings.

Gotta dig out my cores, and off to Walmart for a replacement set. Do believe this was caused by sitting at the dealer for 33 days waiting on warranty parts do to 67A recall! https://www.turbodieselregister.com/threads/67a-bit-me-in-the-backside.275305/

 

[BigPapa]

Might I suggest that you swap them from one side to the other and see what it does before buying new ones?

 

[p-Bar]

Scott I think they are done. As they are in a parallel application it will have no effect.

 

[Topzide]

@p-Bar, @BigPapa comment might be directed at me, as I had listed details of what the charge value was on mine. I think with the values you had stated, yours are probably shot! Might not hurt to flip them to see what happens.

@BigPapa, Thanks for suggesting to flip them and see what happens. That thought hadn't come up. Did check the x-over cable, had around a 1 ohm reading. Haven't chased wires down yet, so the charge wire goes just to drivers side and the through the x-over cable to charge passengers? I'm making that assumption since divers side has the battery sensor on it, or is that just to monitor the current draw? Will swap side to side to see what happens and post back.

@p-Bar, Not meaning to steal your thread, but since I was having a battery issue, wanted to add info for others. If I do need batteries. Walmart seems to be best bang for the buck. $179.84 w/ 4yr replacement warranty. Sams Club has Duracell brand for $199.88 w/ 36 month replacement warranty. These are H7 AGMs.

 

[p-Bar]

No worries topzide all this adds valuable info for others.

 

[NIsaacs]

Well went shopping at NAPA . OMG 279.00 for Agm battery. Wally world here I come.

Agreed. I just bought my first Walmart batteries, lead acid (2). Group BCI 48/H6, 3 year free replacement warranty, 750 CCA for $140, Napa wanted $220 for the same specs.

 

[BigPapa]

@BigPapa, Thanks for suggesting to flip them and see what happens.

Did you swap them? Any change?

 

[Topzide]

@BigPapa, I cleaned all connections and swapped them. They now read the exact same in charge and health status now after several driving cycles. Thank you for that tip! I believe that this problem was created by sitting at the dealer for 33 days waiting on the SCR after the 67A recall. Looks like I may be able to get through the the winter!