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04.5 turbo

how to disable my gridheaters/convert to manual

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Welcome dgibson :) :)



Good to have you aboard !!



The pyro is either mounted in the downpipe, just after the turbo (less desirable) or, in the exhaust manifold outlet.

The exhaust manifold outlet is divided by a center casting piece. You can drill and tap on either side of the center piece depending on you own preferrence.

There are some basic dimensions to go by. I don't have the instructions here, on my work PC but, I'm sure someone will be able to post them or were to find them for you. If not I'll do it when I get home today.



The manifold should not crack or suffer for this as it's were most mount them. The tap is a tappered thread so the only thing is just don't go too deep with it when threading the hole.



Some take the turbo off out of concern over drill shavings getting into the turbo.

If you grease up your drill bit and pull it out frequently, clean it, regrease and keep going you should be ok. Once the drilling is done, you use a mech's magnet and reach into the hole to snag any remaining filings. Then repeat the process with the tap, grease it up, tap a bit, then remove/clean/regrease and carry on.

Your pyro probe mount goes in ( about 3-4 turns is good) then the probe into the mount.



Any tiny little bits of shaving that may have escaped your efforts will just get "puffed" out when you first start the truck.

The exact size of the drilled hole and tap will depend on the pyro you buy. Most are a common size though.

You want the short thermocouple probe.



Hope this helps to start with. I'll check back in later today from home and see how the guys are doing and if they have posted the info or a web link to go look at as there is one around.

Once again Welcome to the 1st Gen Forum/TDR you'll have a great time in here, these really are the best guys on the site! ;)



Oh ya, if you get a chance try to set up a "signature" for your truck, that way we can see what you are running, changes you've made etc.

This is done by going into 'user cp' near the top of each page.



Bob.
 
When I first purchased my present rig it had 250k KM. I immediately went to my local Shop in Drumheller , Alberta to have it checked and fluids changed. The machine felt like the pump and/or injectors were a little tired. True enough 2 cylinders were running a little cold compared to other 4. Rather than start throwing parts at it, my shop guy suggested running a high quality conditioner ( I use one by DSG out of Saskatoon) at double rate for a few tanks and make sure the engine had to work some. Sure enough with each tank and the work the pump loosened up and the injectors cleaned. I still run this conditioner at double rate all the time because I can buy a lot of conditioner for the price of a pump and down time. The shop guy told me that he has had the best results doing this with Dodges, and 6. 5's . Not much luck reviving Fords. With everything smoothed out , we set the valves, reset pump timing up a little and had the baseline.



Rick
 
Hey Bill !!



I finally got your point on that "... ask questions... . " thing, thanks to someone pointing it out to me... ..... Doh !!!



Anyway, a good tip IS ask questions..... sorry I missunderstood your post. ... . darn computers.....



bob.
 
Always change your fuel filter on every other oil change. Especially if you live where it becomes cold. Don't be afraid to use some fuel conditioner. And don't forget the truck stops usually don't usually have 50% #2 / 50% #1 diesel. If it isn't marked it is #2 diesel.



Don't use a filter wrench to tighten the oil or fuel filter! Use your hands.



I thought I could sneak by going the whole 10,000 miles between fuel filter changes, without a fuel conditioner, during the winter and almost ended up without locomotion in the cold.
 
HARD TO FIND PART:

The grid heater power solenoids for 1st gen trucks are no longer available through Dodge. The original manufacturer of the solenoids, White-Rodgers, still continues to make them. They are sold by White-Rodgers under the name Stancor. Go to the following URL to find a Stancor distributor near you.



www.stancor.com



The part is actually called a DC power contactor and its Stancor part number is 120-901.



I have the White-Rodgers and Stancor data sheets for the part at the following URLs:



http://www.kubicki.tv/GridHtrSolenoids.pdf



http://www.kubicki.tv/GridHtrSol_dstrib.pdf



As far as I know, the other components for the grid heater system are still available through Dodge or Cummins.



Rob
 
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Replacement part for marker lights on D/W350 1-ton (Dual wheels)

For those of you who have a D/W350 1-tons with the red/yellow marker lights on the rear fenders and the tailgate:



Some of these marker lights came sealed so if one or both of the internal bulbs burned out the whole marker light would have to be replaced.



There is a newer replacement part for the marker lights made by the same company that supplied the original ones to Dodge. The company is Truck-Lite:



http://www.truck-lite.com



The newer light looks exactly the same as the OEM light that came in our trucks except it has LEDs (light-emitting diode) inside instead of bulbs. The main advantage of LEDs over bulbs is that they are more durable and never burn out after a certain period of time.



They are available in red, yellow, and clear (which looks really cool)... . They are an exact replacement so there is no need to change the wiring or connector - simply plug the new ones in and go. The model and part numbers are:



LED model 19 lamp (red) - #19250R

LED model 19 lamp (yellow) - #19250Y

LED model 19 lamp (clear red) - #19251R

LED model 19 lamp (clear yellow) - #19251Y



They cost about $10 each and can be ordered through any Truck-Lite distributor. I bought mine from Imperial in Green Bay, Wi. (800)558-2808 or http://www.imperialinc.com



Some Cummins, Mack, and other truck repair shops sell them over the counter.



See the pictures below.



Rob





#ad




Yellow LED model 19 lamp.



#ad




Clear LED model 19 lamp.
 
Safety Tip: Put the truck up on 4 strudy jack stands and grab your socket set and a hand full of wrenches get on a creeper and start at the rear and work your way to the front of the truck and tighten every nut bolt and screw that you can find. While you are at it pull every electrical socket apart and add some dialectric grease to the contacts. As you get to the front of the truck it starts to get a little messy with oil and grease so take a couple of rags with you under the truck, one soaked with solvent and a dry one to wipe everything down so you can see the nuts and bolts.

I found my Transmission cross member bolts rattling around in their holes. It took several turns to tighten them up.

This is the time to look for cracked frames, bent stuff, chaffed hoses, and maybe you will even find that Cat you ran over last spring, who knows. I perform this task once a year.

CHEAP INSURANCE.
 
My tip is the importance of good brakes. We spend countless hours figureing ways to make our trucks have more power but don't upgrade the inadequit stock brakes. Take the time to pull your axles and check/clean rear drums. If like mine you might be surprised to find with all the adjusting I was haveing to do wore out 1 side way faster than the other. Upgrade to one of the many rear disc kits out there.



2nd tip would be placing a 3/8" or 1/2" shim under half shaft steady bearing if you have a shudder in drive line, under power off the line.



3rd tip would be grease, grease, grease.



mark

PDR - Black Sheep Racing
 
I have one that I don't believe was thrown in here yet. :)



One of the most dramatic improvements made to my truck so far was advancing the timing, and increasing the rpm. You can take it to a shop you trust and let them do it, you can buy the tools to set it per the manual, or the way I went was the "poor man's" route which Piers showed me. My only cost was the $22 for the special wrench.



Here's a link to the details.
 
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Guys, when I look at these tips from a "new guy/first time owner" point of view it blows me away how much help these things will help. We all (me included) take alot of this for granted since we've all "been there done that" for a while.

Keep em comin, don't be afraid to have numerous ideas... and especially the part number/replacement suppier thing... . that's EXCELLENT !!!!!.

I'm working on the new forum idea for "discontinued" parts suppliers/numbers etc so what ever you put in here will likely get moved over when (hopefully) it happens so keep at it... .



Hehehehe, I was also stopped dead in my tracks when I saw "Wildman's" post,,, whodda thought mark would talk about stopping since he' usually trying to go faster... ;);)

mark you always surprise me bud..... ;) ;)



bob.
 
I think the admin is looking at both options right now but it also looks like setting up a "sub-forum" within the 1st Gen folder may be the way it goes...



I'm waiting to hear back from Robin on this. Also there will likely be some fairly tight guidelines to it since we don't want it to turn into a vendors forum, or "promotional forum" that can get out of hand.



bob.
 
Good point formula, and that is exactly the thing we don't want to happen. By that I mean we don't want a duplicate of this forum, but rather one devoted to listing of discontinued parts/components, who found replacements, were to get them, part number(s) etc.

The idea came from the intake heater issue a while back and the fact that they were no longer available or almost impossible to find.

If we have a place to explain and list those things, and those things only, it will be much easier than doing multiple searches, over multiple forums.

Since we're seeing more "new" members with 1st Gens coming in it would be more time efficient for them as well as the rest of us.

Lets, face it, not only are there darn few vendors doing anything for us 1st Gen guys (with one or two exceptions) there are even less who make discontinued OEM (or equivalent) parts available for a generation of trucks that aren't getting any younger... ... kinda like me..... ;)



Bob.
 
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