Best tip for New 1st Gen owners/Guys willing to help Threads Merged...

[BushWakr - RIP]

List of 1st Gen guys willing to help tweak/tune..

. Work in progress... each of you guys should let me know what you can do in general terms so the readers can contact the appropriate person depending on help needed please. I'll tweak and tune the write-up for each of you as I get info. (assuming you want that added)





Below is a list of 1st Gen Dodge truck owners who are willing to help any (new and experienced) CTD owners tweak and tune their trucks. None of the assistance offerred is endorsed by the TDR, it's moderators or administrators. These fellows are simply willing to help with various performance issues, repairs, and ideas for CTD owners. None of this is a "fee for service" situation and it is NOT intended to eliminate or sidestep professional service shops/dealers.

Further, no fee for service is intended or implied. Just guys willing to pitch in and help. Remember "we" are our own warranty station and, take responsibility for the changes we make to our trucks.



Bob~1st Gen Moderator

 

[BushWakr - RIP]

Help For New Diesel Owners

Bob Beauchaine
My address is:
14646 SE Market Ct
Portland OR 97233
Cell #503-702-0616

>>>>>>>>>>>

JFitzgerald
John Fitzgerald
3049 N. 3100 E. Rd.
Beaverville, IL 60912
815-435-2485

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phillips5
Glad to help someone have tools ,exp. ,and heart. James Phillips 2363 Co. Rd. E Swanton Oh. 43558 ( north western Oh. 12 miles west of Toledo on Rt. 2)Home phone(419)826-1600 Cell phone(419)654-0502

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jbolt
Jay Critchfield
Mountain View, CA
650-967-5621

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OkieBroncRider
Monty Dyer
Rt. 4 Box 69-E
Okemah, OK 74859
Home Phone: 918-623-2544

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sgriffing
Steven Griffing
8857 SW 200th Circle
Dunnellon, FL 34431
352-465-0906
-- email address removed --

>>>>>>>>>>>

Power Wagon
Mark Koskenmaki
Weston, OR

509-301-2292 cell
541-566-1859 home
-- email address removed --

>>>>>>>>>>>

JAK
jak stoll po box 1536
black mountain NC.
28711
H# 828-664-9204
W# 828-775-3113
feel free to email as well
-- email address removed --
Expertise in:
21 year master level technician I hold 13 certifications I own a small repair biz near asheville NC my favorite part of my trade is diagnosing electrical & fuel injection systems I own some of the best equipment on the market for this purpose I build engines diffs transfer cases & manual trannies
Limited auto transmission experience, good stick transmission knowledge.
I have studied the VE pump manual & feel I have a good understanding of its operation & basic tweaks
I have installed many guage sets have no problem drilling & tapping.
I am experienced with porting & polishing
heads, intake & exhaust manifolds gasket matching
Experienced in forced induction turbos I can rebuild turbos & have learned what you all do as far as exhaust housings when I figure out what all the compressor trims are for holset I will be of further help
I will say that this is what I do for a living I feed my family & pay my mortgage turning nuts & bolts I am happy & willing to help & would be glad to host like a KDP day or timing & minor pump tweak day or what ever.

JAK

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SnoDawg
Wayne Baker
P. O. Box 190443
Anchorage AK 99519
(907) 248-1367
I go out of town a lot doing the work thingy but keep trying.

>>>>>>>>>>>>

J DeMaio
John DeMaio
Marietta Ohio
740-373-2204

Not a professional, but I can change a turbo housing and a set of injectors and pump.


>>>>>>>>>>>>

RDusch
Rick Dusch
home 757. 255. 2345
cell 757. 409. 8889
cell 757. 323. 2702

>>>>>>>>>>>>

SamsRams
Sam Ayars
See ad in Vendors Forum/List; Maker of: ASA MODIFIEDS/Cold Air Intake Kits, column-mounted o/d lever conversion, custom gauge mounting and fabrication, willing to help those who need it...
Central Coast, California
Pics... . http://turbodieselregister.com/user_gallery/displaygallery.php?userid=14082

Ph# (805) 735-9408


>>>>>>>>>>>>

dpuckett
Daniel Puckett
Calhan CO
573/785-2097
-- email address removed --
Gauge installs, clutches, transmission R&R, brakes, exhaust, turbo/ housing changes. Have a 1990 shop manual and am not afraid to read it.
Have done injectors, housings, and pumps removal and reinstalls, along with modest tweaking and poor boy timing advances

>>>>>>>>>>>>

Dieseldemon
Jim Leonard
Montague Ca
530 938 3427
after 6:00 Pm Pacific time.

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hdm48
Dave Miller
Miller Racing Engines
Snohomish, washington
425-330-6934 cel
Experienced with porting and polishing, tuning and many other CTD related tasks, including pump tweeks and tune ups. And don't forget the airbox mods.


>>>>>>>>>>>>

Old Smoky
Mike Dorsey
-- email address removed --

>>>>>>>>>>>>

JLeonard
Jay Leonard
Torrington, Ct
1-800-775-2690 (6am-4pm

>>>>>>>>>>>>

GOODE11
David Goode
Louisburg, KS
-- email address removed --

>>>>>>>>>>>>

mopar2ya,
Joe Favreau
Musella ga.
478/836/2503
-- email address removed --

>>>>>>>>>>>>

 

[drives mopars]

do what i did

have fun do what i did get up to 400 hp and 960 foot pounds



in a 1 st gen

 

[BushWakr - RIP]

Here is a link showing all sorts of part numbers..

Thanks to bmoeller for this link for Geno's Garage. It shows all sorts of part names/numbers for us 1st Gen drivers...





http://www.dodgeram.org/tech/dsl/Facts/91specs.html#parts



Bob ~ 1st Gen Mod.

 

[dpuckett]

WHen ordering guages, go for a 40 or higher psi boost guage. With stock injectors, AFC pin at 75%, and a PDR HX35-12, I can hit 34 psi pretty easily. the 40psi guage will save the hassle of having a guage you dont need, and possibly having a guage you cant return. With PODs, pump tweaking, HX40, 4" exhaust, etc, you can top 40 psi. Better to have more numbers and not need them that to need them and not have them.



Daniel

 

[12valver]

I am all for starting a forum like this Bushwkr. Since I will be a proud owner of a 1st gen engine to put in an old ford. I will be posting questions frequently. Keep up the great work guys.

 

[BushWakr - RIP]

Transfer case shifter rattle fix....

There are 4 individual parts involved I'll list each one as they are shown in the parts books and then the part number.



ITEM PART #



BUSHING-S #52077672

WASHER-2N #00869770

WASHER-FL #00120395

ONE PLAIN COTTER PIN NO PART #



Small fingers will help with some of this. .



"Pastor Bob" Mod ~ PDR Inc/Black Sheep Racing.

 

[dpuckett]

Update my information on the tune/ tweak list-

Daniel Puckett

Poplar Bluff MO

573/785-2097

-- email address removed --

Add to my list: gauge installs, clutches, transmission R&R, brakes, exhaust, turbo/ housing changes. Have a 1990 shop manual and am not afraid to read it.

 

[JDPoole]

My advise is find the thread about the K. D. P and read it 3 times.



I put 200k on my 91 and didn't even know about it. I pulled the



engine out to put in another truck and had it on the stand when I



found this site and read that. I was lucklyyyyyyyyyyyyyy.



J. D. Poole

 

[EZGZ]

My 91. 5 4X4 had 72k on it when I found her.

One of the first upgrades I did was replace that sloppy cheesey steering coupler with a New Borgonsen unit. Was not that much more than a stock one and made it handle like a new truck. Will outlast the rest of it.

 

[JMcCaig]

I had just replaced mine with the 'Cheesey' factory item when I learned about the alternative. When the cheese sours, I will replace it with the more substantial Borgenson. One can see from the pictures it is better done.



thanks and regards, James

 

[driverswanted]

EZGZ,



Where do you get the Borgonsen coupler? I'm tired of dancing with my steering wheel.

 

[MDKram]

rkubicki, you talked about the grid heater solenoids not being available from DC anymore. You can buy them direct from Cummins under p/n 3916301. This was brought to my attention by my Cummins parts guy who is just great to deal with.

 

[MRickard]

You can get the borgeson from a place such as summit, part number BRG-940 and is for 1979-93 Dodge Fullsize pickup. It costs $189. 99.



They seem nice (looked at them at summit), but not worth the price. What you really need is a universal joint in there (which the borgeson shaft provides) instead of the rag joint being used as one like Dodge does. The borgeson ujoints are not lubable too. I would just weld the end fittings to a small, serviceable ujoint that is real popular (maybe a pto one) and make one - pretty easy to do, espcially for the cost savings. But if you cannot make one, the borgeson provides a ujoint which is what is seriously needed.

 

[bmoeller]

Originally posted by MRickard

You can get the borgeson from a place such as summit, part number BRG-940 and is for 1979-93 Dodge Fullsize pickup. It costs $189. 99.



They seem nice (looked at them at summit), but not worth the price. What you really need is a universal joint in there (which the borgeson shaft provides) instead of the rag joint being used as one like Dodge does. The borgeson ujoints are not lubable too. I would just weld the end fittings to a small, serviceable ujoint that is real popular (maybe a pto one) and make one - pretty easy to do, espcially for the cost savings. But if you cannot make one, the borgeson provides a ujoint which is what is seriously needed.

I'm not sure what the shaft size is on the steering shaft, but if it is 1", there is another place to get the u-joint. Go to a semi trailer dealer that sells parts for a hopper bottom grain trailer (We run 2- Timpte Super Hoppers, the Wilson hoppers may be the same, not sure. ). The u-joints are are part of the drive that opens the traps. Don't know the cost on it though. Been a long time since I have replaced one. They are greasable. Will need to be welded on.

 

[Turbo Tim 1]

Actually the biggest problem with the stock steering shaft is not the rag joint but the slip coupling that isn't really servicable and gets sloppy. I'm not saying rag joints don't suck, but you need more than just a u-joint to put on your existing shaft. I put a borgesen on my 93 and drove it for 100,000 plus with zero issues. The steering in my 93 was better with 180,000 miles and all original joints except for the steering shaft than my 01 was new.

 

[MRickard]

Unless you never push very far on the throttle, get a pyrometer and put it pre-turbo. If you have an auto transmission and work it, get a transmission temp gauge - the trannys have no lockup and can get hot. Fix the dowl pin (KDP). Fix the piece-of-junk steering shaft (Yes Turbo Tim, it is that slip coupling! What I meant to say was to include a slip-yoke but for some reason did not ) If you have a getrag - read up on its care and use. Keep driveline universals lubed as they take a lot of torque. Change all the fluids, from radiator to differential, and remember to do them again at the right interval. Make sure all electrical connections are good. Have a good truck battery (stud type are far better than post type) with good cables (atleast #2 (2 gauge), use conductive grease. Learn the trucks breaking abilities before the accelaration abilities I would add in step "9. 5" in the trans oil change: disconnect the INPUT cooler line to the trans, and slip a hose on it, route the other end to the drain pan, and run engine until fluid comes out nice and clean (pink or red, NOT brownish), then shut engine off, reconnect the line. A518 would be the rear line to take off. And of course, post questions here when they arise!

 

[NDearyan]

Battery tip

I know this applies to all autos, not just CTD's.



Thoroughly clean the battery posts, and terminals. Then apply a light coating of grease to the threads on the terminal clamps, then on the posts, and then over the whole thing. Seems to increase the voltage that gets to the starter. And no more of that "Wiggle the battery connection, and it'll start"!



Another is buy a 1000 amp battery. It just has extra amps to do more stuff. It is a little hard on the starter, but not as bad as low voltage!



This was my first contribution to the tips section!



Nate

 

[dpuckett]

Speedo troubleshooting, cont

Electrical- Make sure the female ends of the little connector (truck end- for VSS) are perfectly round and will fit tight over the terminals of the VSS. If they arent perfectly round, they wont make a good connection, making for an erratic or dead speedo. Also check for crimped or burned/ worn through wires from the VSS up through the firewall. Beyond that, I leave it to someone else.



-DP

 

[vhainesxx]

IS IT TRUE THAT SOME 93'S CAME STOCK WITH 16CM TURBO HOUSING AND IF SO HOW DO i TELL. ALSO WHAT ARE THE BENEFITS OF ADDING A 14 AND WHERE DO I BUY THEM?