Best tip for New 1st Gen owners/Guys willing to help Threads Merged...

[BushWakr - RIP]

To the best of my knowledge the 93's did not come with a 16cm housing... they all came with an 18. 5cm housing...

You will need to get a mirror and do some neck twisting but the housing should have a raised section of casting with "18" on it.

The 16cm housings are an "aftermarket" option that alot of us run. It is a great compromise between quicker spoolup and decent flow at the upper RPM range.

If all you do is run around town with little or no weight AND you're not "TOO" heavily fueled you can run a non-wastegated 14cm or even a non gated 12cm. Keep in mind that those housings start to get fairly restrictive at the upper end and can contribute to high exhaust gas temps if you really fuel 'em and work 'em hard... . been there, done that, got the T-shirt and the video...



pb... .

 

[DocRhoads]

How do you know what size housing to go to? Looking to kick up the HP all ready did a few things but not the turbo, i was saving for a twin but would like to do this in steps and learn as much as i can during the steps. ... ...



Quote... .

"One of the cheapest, easiest things to get a bit of performance increase and greater driveability is to get rid of the stock turbo housing (18. 5 to 21 cm).



Replace it with a 16cm, 14cm or even a 12 depending on your objectives. I went with the 16cm non-wastegated and have been happy. "





Some of the compaines I have talked to said things that others have not, even gave me advice that other companies said i would not do that. I guess I need to find the right people to talk to at these companies. Even had one guy say to reprogram the 93 Dodge CTD computer. Never heard that other then a friend that nows nothing about my truck.

 

[BushWakr - RIP]

Hey 'Doc,



Sorry I didn't pick up on your last post/question...

As far as I am aware, there is NO reflash for our PCM's.....



What the housing change does basically is this... for each housing size down you go, you will see roughly 2-3psi more boost than the previous housing... . eg: 18. 5cm to 16cm... 16cm to 14cm etc... .

Now as you get smaller and smaller the rate at which the turbo begins to spool up increases... in fact you can run a 12cm housing that spools up almost immediately off idle.



But, and you knew there would be a "but" didn't you ..... the smaller you go the more the problems you'll have with EGT's at the upper end.

Each housing size downward means the inlet to the exhaust housing is getting smaller and smaller.

That in turn will create greater and greater restriction to the exhuast gases as they try to enter the housing, from the manifold.



On the highway, the 16cm is a real good choice because it has the flow characteristics nearly equal to the 18. 5cm housing... it also has pretty decent responsivness at the lower end too. You can tune/tweak you pump settings to speed up the spool rate too...



Next housing down, the 14cm is beginning to get a bit restrictive if you are going to go heavy on the performance side of things... the non-gated 14's ( I ran one) can get you into extremely high EGT's if you are heavily fueled and/or tow/carry heavy with lots of throttle.



The compromise is the 'gated' 14cm. This wastegate allows you to preset your boost limits by venting the excess so you do not push a stock turbo beyond it's efficiency map, which in most cases is about 26psi... after that the extra boost starts to very quickly become extremely hot and this adds to your EGT problems.



If you run a hybrid turbo you will have, as part of the "hybridization process" and increased efficiency map... on mine for example the "map" is around 36-38psi... . beyond that it too begins to create high temps for my boost air charge.



So, as I see it, unless you're into "light to light" only I would stay away from the 12cm gated, as well as the 14cm non-gated.

Your most practicle choices would be the 16cm and, the 14cm 'gated' housing.

After that you really should look at getting yourself a hybrid HX35/40 style turbo with the higher efficiency range and the fast boost/cooler boost that comes with it...



Hope that helps...



pb... .

 

[Nordby]

2nd Gen CD player is Compatible with 1992 1st Gen

Not sure if this is a repeat, a quick search didn't show it. I parted out a 1997 Ram for the engine/intercooler parts to put in my 1978 F250 Crew (still going, slowly, but about to fire it!).



I had the am/fm/cd out of the 1997 sitting around, and thought I'd put it in my 1992 First Gen. where I've put up with a barely working am/fm/cassette player. Size looked right, so I figured I'd splice some wires and get it going. The thing plugged in! I mean the power/ground/speakers/etc. Much nicer unit. The color of the plugs were even the same (gray to gray, black to black).



Pretty amazing in my book. I've seen stereos the same year of truck not interchange, much less a 5 year spread, and a complete body/cab change in there as well. Swap out those stereos boys!



later, jon

 

[ChrisHarris]

The classic fix for this on the first gen's is the Skyjacker 2. 5" leveling springs. I recently installed these with a pair of Rancho RS9000 shocks. Tremendous difference! Others have done this as well and would agree.



Ken

More info on Sky Jacker please. My wife will no longer ride in our '90 W250. I bought it from owner #2 because his wife wouldn't ride in it as was the case with owner #1. Any info would be great. Thanks

 

[ChrisHarris]

This will probably be long, so PLEASE bear with me. I have read all the posts on this forum in search of info for my 1990 (mfd '89) W250 Non-Intercooled, Regular Cab with 155,000 miles. I joined TDR a couple of years ago and have learned a lot about my truck but need more knowledge. I am ordering (or will attempt to) a service manual next week. Some background info: Auto Trans. ,Dyno Flow Muff. with 3" pipe dumping out 12" behind front of bed @ 90 degree angle, Air Cond. , Power locks & windows, tilt. 4. 10's(I assume as it only does 75mph), 8 foot plow, soft tonneau cover and I generally haul a 12 ft. ,3500GVW, enclosed single axle trailer with either one or two BMW motorcycles in it, which are pretty portly at around 600 to 800 Pounds each. Hauling over much of New England in hilly terrain and Highways. I bought it from the 2nd owner (technician) who has worked on it since new for the 1st owner. I have put over 40,000 miles on it since buying it in 2001 and I will now do all routine service myself. I am a former 10+ year auto tech and current 7 year BMW motorcycle tech (self employed) and am REALLY meticulous. However, I have N0 knowledge of diesel engines. So I need your help, along with others, LOL. Now for my list of questions:



1. What is the procedure for changing the fuel filter and bleeding??? I am getting different answers from ******* techs.



2. My Idle now fluctuates (Ruh,Ruh,Ruh,Ruh) as if someone were gently applying and releasing the accelerator. What/why? Also seems high when it does idle normally.



3. Owner #2 stated 22-25 mpg 18 with loaded car trailer. I have NEVER gotten any better than 14 and 11 is frequent. Again though, I am running mostly highway and at full throttle or damn close. Is this normal in this situation with this gear ratio? I realize the speedo is off (rather optomistic @ 10% above actual).



4. This truck is affected by KDP, Correct?



5. Brakes... Or the serious lack of them. These brakes absolutely SUCK! Owner #2 said they always did. The pedal gets rock hard/wooden feeling with horribly long stopping distances (I haul the trailer most of the time so the trailer brakes will stop me in a reasonable distance), and when it gets down to 30 - 20 mph the front end will sway left or right with an occasional wobble. Is this the "DEATH WOBBLE" and what is going on with the brakes? It has been fitted (several times) with new rotors, front calipers (rear is drum), "Heavy Duty" pads/shoes, front brake hoses,wheel cylinders & axle seals, been bled (although NOT flushed-I will do that soon) and the rears adjusted. Never has any of this improved braking performance. I am not being overly critical as I have, in the past, put a few miles on a 1st gen. wrecker (W350) that stopped much better, although, in 64000 miles said wrecker required 32 trips to ******* for brake work. I have driven several other W250's that have much better brakes than mine. Any ideas??? Vac. pump, booster,? It does have a leak in the steering box that requires adding PS fluid every 800 - 1000 miles.



6. Coolant temp. Or, why I wear electric heated clothing while plowing and shouldn't drive on the highway in the summer. In the fall thru winter I keep an insulated leather bra on the grill which has 2 flaps that open. These stay closed unless I am on the highway with the snow plow up. Even while plowing there is virtually no heat and the temp guage (OEM, I know I need real guages which will be referenced further on in this list) is way down on "C". When I hit the highway temps climb to mid range and there is heat until I am in town again. In the summer (80 degrees and up) on the highway @ 70 mph+ the guage is above the mid way point and the truck is a real dog on acceleration. Obviously, previously mentioned bra has been removed along with plow. Any ideas? I have been "told" that it is NOT a thermostat problem but I have my doubts.



7. PLEASE is there someone out there that has been reliably using an exhaust brake on a 1st gen W250 non-intercooled truck? I realise this is not the sole solution to my brake issues but I will be hauling a much larger tandem axle trailer next year that will hold 4 bikes and I don't want to buy an additional truck yet.



8. What is the best exhaust set up for this truck? I have no problem running no muff if this would be better. Duals have been suggested by a customer who owns a muffler shop. Larger single, duals, muffler/s or no muffler/s?



9. The headlights and dashlights (may be others also) have started pulsating at full throttle. Voltage regulator on the way out? Anyone else had this problem?



10. Before I put guages in I would like to get a 3 guage pillar mount but have been unable to find one for this truck. Any ideas on a source. I know there are dual guage kits but I'm hoping to find a triple.



11. THE LAST REQUEST!!! Could anyone suggest a really good diesel shop that knows what they are doing with CTD's in New Hampshire? Mass. OK if none in N. H. I would prefer an independent shop.



So that is it for my multiple questions. I have had the truck for 4 years and really do like it but I could like it a whole lot more. If these issues can be resolved without spending the same $$$ as a newer crew cab dually I will get the 20% Over drive and try to sqeeze more top speed and power out of it. But the brake issues will have to be fixed first.

Thanks for your knowledge and assistance,

Chris Harris at: -- email address removed --

 

[drives mopars]

best tip?

do a transplant i did but see tdr classified ads.



my 93 with 97 p 7100 storm block is for sale

 

[Rebel Ram]

Hi Chris. Cant speak for all trucks or all situations but as for Brake pedal feel, Check to make sure that vacuum pump is working correctly and or that there are no vac leaks. I. E. check hoses and the vacuum check valve in the brake booster. These are very rudimenary checks easily done with a thumb over the end of the hoses and or pop the check valve in your mouth and check it old school. Without vacuum what you describe is exactly how the pedal will feel.

As for Exhaust, Check out what I did for mine. I don't know how to setup links so go look for "Home-brew 3X4 Strait pipe" on first gen forums. I have since added a 20" Magnaflow. Made it MUCH quieter without any perfornace drop. (almost to quiet)

Unless you convert your auto trans to be able to use a locking torque converter an exhaust brake is useless. I have looked into it and it would be cheaper to put in a manual 5 speed.

Gages, I found out by accident that the column gage mount for second gen trucks @ Genos fits first gen columns perfectly. I am using a westech Pyro/boose combo gage. don't worry, you can see around it fine.

Bleeding fuel. Start the truck and then crack the fuel supply banjo bolt @ top front of pump. NOTE: Crack only, till fuel only trickles out until fuel flows smoothly, no air. Then same procedure @ injectors.

I don't think you have a thermostat problem. It sounds as though you don't have a thermostat at all. Check it out.

Death Wobble. I assume that this is a two wheel drive truck. The front end on these trucks are notoriously bad. One loose component will make the next go bad and so on and so forth. I know it sounds goofy but make sure your rear brakes are adjusted well. If not the front brakes get a limp grip on the rotors until the rear shoes make contact with the drums and the front wont have any authority until line pressure builds. This weak sister front brake grip makes for more shake.

All that being said, I still enjoy driving my 92 more than my 01.

 

[Nordby]

I'll address the ones I know about:



1. Fuel filter and Bleeding.

Disconnect the water-in-fuel sensor wires, the drain, and pull the old filter off (spill fuel all over, down your forearms if you are underneath). Swap the sensor to the new filter, fill the new filter up with diesel, and turn it back on (ensure you only have 1 gasket between the filter and housing). To bleed, typically takes only cracking the 17mm banjo fitting above the filter, work the bleed lever on the lift pump to push air out, and close the 17mm. I do this like bleeding brakes (open when working the lever, close when going back). You may have to rotate your engine to get the lever to push fuel, it is on a cam. Typically I don't have to high pressure bleed anything (nothing at injectors unless it runs rough and never smooths out).



2. Don't know about your idle. Smoking at all? Sounds like inconsistent fuel spray, due to what could be many things: air being number 1, faulty injector(s), erratic KSB, pump being tired in 1 or more lines, etc.



3. 3spd auto 4x4 15-17mpg perhaps. If you drive 55-60, you might see 20. 5spds of these years will see 21 (my 1992 does), but the 3spd auto's are hard to get great mpg unless you really slow down.



4. KDP is in these trucks, rarely falls out. For whatever reason, they are more prone to fall out of the second gens. Bet the gear cover bolts in this loosen up like the others though, might not be a bad idea to tab the kdp and tighten the 10mm gear housing bolts.



5. Brakes. Sounds like vacuum to me too. I've seen pictures where folks put a small air tank to store vacuum (vs compressed) air in their brake systems. The first gens ya use them once or twice,then the vacuum is all gone and has to be regenerated. A weak pump makes it worse. No, not the death wobble. You'll know the death wobble when you get it and won't even have to ask. Your tires will be jumping off the ground, the sound is deafening, the truck is uncontrollable, and the wobble won't stop until sometimes just before you stop.



6. Thermostat, agreed.



7. No e-brake with that auto. Unless you are towing quite a bit more, like 6-8K lbs, dual axle trailer brakes and ensuring yours are tuned up should be fine. Leave early and just go slow on the downhills. Lots of guys safely towing 12k+ lbs without e-brakes with first gens.



8. Exhaust. At altitude my first gen towed better with a high-flow muffler than the straight pipe. Something with thin air, I dunno, do some searches and see. Don't waste your money on duals. First do a high flow muffler. If you have more budget, do a 4" exhaust with a high flow muffler.



9 and11 no clue.



10. The lights pulsating as a function of rpms- interesting. Not sure if your truck has a CPS that goes to a computer behind the driver's side battery - I think your regulator is external, up on your firewall somewhere. All are part of the charging system (as well as the alternator). I'd say alternator brushes don't like the rpms is possible if the alternator is older (or a cheapo). I'd start measuring voltages at the alternator, regulator, charging relay, etc. while running your throttle up.



jon

 

[ChrisHarris]

Thank You for your help

I have replaced the booster ( and Master Cylinder, they came as 1 unit) since all vac tests were good. Brakes are now better but not great. Consistent pedal with less effort required but pedal is low even with rears cranked up until dragging. Will be turning drums and changing shoes, adjusters, hardware, etc.

Voltage regulator cured pulsating lights. Volt guage never fluctuated, however. Made some adjustments to throttle stop and removed airbox and it seems to be happier at 70mph. Not requiring full throttle now except on inclines at speed. I realize it is not a race truck and please bear in mind that when I state "70 mph" that that is indicated, which is actually 66 mph. Which brings me to fuel mileage. Did a 250 run yesterday at moderate speeds to see if mileage would improve. Was passed by nearly all traffic on the road and stayed at 65, or less, indicated most of the time. Fueling up when I was done calculated 11 mpg which is what it always gets, WFO or not. Now, factor in the speedo discrepancy, and I'm probably in the 9 to 10 range at best. I will do some more specific testing on the next run. Also, I saw a post that the SkyJacker lift kit actually made the 1st Gen 4x4's ride better. Can anyone comment on this claim.

That is all for now. Thanks for everyones input. You're assistance is greatly appreciated.

 

[ChrisHarris]

Sliding rear window

Is anyone interested in trading a regular/solid rear window for my sliding rear window from my 90 regular cab? If so, e mail me at -- email address removed -- or call 603 665-9269 or post here, but I do not get on line much so don't anticipate a speedy reply. Thanks

 

[EZGZ]

Here is a good thread about brake problems with our trucks.

The how and why to upgrade.



https://www.turbodieselregister.com/forums/showthread.php?t=145162



https://www.turbodieselregister.com/forums/showthread.php?t=145093



enjoy

 

[EZGZ]

Here is a tip that cost me a lot of time and agrivation.



Periodicaly check your wires on trailer connectors. I would even go so far as to suggest redoing the connections and resealing them when you do you antifreeze replacement.



Even if you don't use them, moisture and vibration can eventually cause problems.



I spent hours in my wiring harness and steering column trying to find out why my turn signals weren't working properly and it ended up being a short across two pins in my trailer connector that I never use. It was a small 6 pin connector but even the large 7 blade type should be checked before you have problems.

 

[guh2stroke]

mechanics manual`

Anyone know where I can get a mechanics manaul for a 93 w250 4wd diesel.

Any info would be appreciated, I am a new owner and would like to kill the KDP and would just like to learn some stuff in the process, thanks in advance, Alex

 

[bgilbert]

Parts chains sells Haynes and Chilton manuals, good books for the money. www.genosgarage.com sells the factory service manuals, not cheap. Cummins will sell you a engine manual, not cheap either. Always a good idea to have a good library.

 

[Sri Ram]

guh2stroke: I got manuals from www.books4cars.com

 

[Kinship]

New to TDR & Diesel Truck

I bought a 1993 LE 350 dually 118k miles good conditon , did NV4500 conversion w/New joints an rebuilt spicer 70 with limited slip truck is stock as far as I can tell . . except FOR aftermarket muffler . . I need a Good Tach it ahs auto meter that works of alt. this sucks any suggests as to where i should start . . got manuals on the way . . thanks would appreciate any help I can get !!

-- email address removed --

 

[Sri Ram]

Welcome Kinship! You might try this thread:https://www.turbodieselregister.com/forums/showthread.php?t=106952. You can also check my photo gallery: https://www.turbodieselregister.com/user_gallery/displayalbum.php?&userid=993277&albumid=18453. Hope this helps…

 

[Kinship]

Thanks ... i got my Auto Meter Tach working great . . read a post in archives about the sweet spot to set sensor on alt. . is there a Pillar . . I think its called available to hold 3 guages ? again thanks for the info !!

 

[LRose]

tIhanks for those tips guys i am a first time diesel owner[1993D350] and close to anovice mechanic. Getting tips from the horses mouth will definetely help as i have been bitten by the wrong people before. Grateful for this page Iwill be pcking you guys brain in the future.