Best tip for New 1st Gen owners/Guys willing to help Threads Merged...

[nascar mark]

Yeah Bob, You old fart!!!!!!! Weren't you around when the stick and rock wheel was invented. :-laf :-laf :-laf :-laf



Yes, Your right Bob. Its alittle frustrating some times trying to find any thing for our trucks and we need as much help as possible. Keep up the good work guy.



mark

PDR - Black Sheep Racing

 

[BushWakr - RIP]

:-laf :-laf :-laf ... hey I resemble that remark... :-laf :-laf :-laf

Actually, THAT'S the STICK I been lookin for all this time... .

Ahhh well... ... probly that ole Bill took it to pic his tooth... .



Your right on though mark, it's getting tougher and tougher to find stuff for these things, particularly the items that DON'T fail alot. Like those heater grid post connections. The TPS is one that will likely be around a while since they are commonly needed, but other stuff is not so common.



Lets face it, it's only natural that the focus is on the newer trucks since that is were the new, wild and wonderful product market is focused. Us guys are often over looked. A mistake in my opinion but hey, that's just me. .

Thing is, these old gals got great potential, as you can attest to mark. Overlooking this market is like walking past your next paycheck, next customer and next friend. . I don't know about you but I can always use one more of those. .

Anyway, if I can help make the 1st Gen owners experience easier and more fun, what the heck, it works for me. .



Bob.

 

[BCaldwell]

stick works good. bill

 

[JLEONARD]

BushWakr Bob,

Perhaps you can add a topic in the 'links' section at the top of the page entitled "hard to find 1st gen stuff" or something along those lines.

Then it could link all the threads that discuss these things... or to a page in the database that would list sources and solutions ... and maybe the TDR member that has gone thru the particular fix... . would be a heck of a lot easire than trying to search the archives.

Just a thought.

 

[hmickelson]

The real tip of the day Is Listen(or read) about stuff from guys like paccool, bushwacker, and anderson. With our some of the tips I read from them my trip to Alaska would have been a bust.



Preventive maintenance is less expensive than repairs.



thanks again to all you good 1st generation owners.



Hugh

 

[DieselBuzz]

The Rule

Don't risk sticking any part of your body where you wouldn't stick your *****. Crude simple safe

Art





edited by: BushWakr

1st Gen Forum Moderator.

 

[BushWakr - RIP]

Timing adjustment sequence..

Here is an excellent "how to" on the sequence for adjusting your timing on a 1st Gen.

Special thanks to "Nicholas" for this post.



Ok, I have taken this from another CTD bomber that has succesfully done his own timing for the first time. Here is the sequence/process he used to do this... .



1. I removed the battery, throttle linkage, springs, and throttle/transmission cable assembly bracket.



2. I unbolted, and slid the injection pump support bracket away from the high pressure fuel injection lines, and injection pump rear mounting plate.



3. I disconnected all the wires from leading to the selonoides.



4. I loosened the high pressure fuel injection lines at the injection pump.



5. I also loosened the high pressure fuel line brackets and isolators.



6. I loosen the injection pump mounting nuts with my "Snap-On SP-144 wrench. "



7 . With very firm, consistant pressure, I rotated the injection pump toward the engine head, increaseing the distance between timing scribe lines from 1/16" to 1/8".



8. I then torqued the injection pump mounting nuts, and double and triple checked the distance between the timing scribe lines, which the lines were at 1/8". (I used a small machinist's type ruler to obtain the measurements. )



10. I then tightened the high pressure fuel injection lines (thank goodness for a 17mm crowfoot wrench), reinstalled the injection pump support bracket, throttle/transmission cable assembly bracket, throttle linkage, throttle springs, and tightened the high pressure fuel injection line support brackets & isolators, and reinstall he battery.



11. I then fired the engine up, it ran a bit rough for about 10 seconds or so, then it seemed smooth out.

Crack each injector line and bleed any excess air as needed.



Thanks to "Nicholas" for this informative post.



Bob.

 

[formula]

Turbocharger drive pressure vs. boost

This may be a bit confusing at first. But, I'm posting this here because it is potentially very useful information for anyone thinking of making power modifications to their truck.



These results are based on measurements I took from the stock H1C turbo with a Banks 14cm wastegated exhaust housing. From 0 - 20 psi boost, the drive/boost pressure ratio stayed just about 1:1. At 22psi, drive pressure was 25psi. At 24psi, drive pressure was 30psi. Couldn't get a drive pressure reading above 30psi because that was the limit of the gauge I was using. When increasing boost from 0-20psi, the EGT rose slowly and steadily from 300 to 750. When going from 20-26psi, EGT rose much faster going from 750-1200 in just a couple of seconds.



This is a delicate balance that is very much dependent on the efficiency range of the compressor (the cold side of the turbo that acutally pressurizes the air). This can't really be changed without changing or modifying the compressor. It appears that when staying within the compressor's efficiency range it will produce cool boost and and a drive/boost pressure ratio of about 1:1. When you start to fuel the engine and produce boost and exhaust gas volume that exceed the efficiency of the turbo, the drive/boost pressure ratio will start to shoot up along with your EGT. Compensations can be made by changing the exhaust housing of the turbo to keep the boost and drive pressures in check. Boils down to: throttle response = smaller 12-14cm wastegated exhaust housing, more fuel = larger (wg or not) 16 exhaust housing, lots-o-fuel = new turbo.



As for the exhaust housing sizes:



For the same compressor, increasing the size of the exhaust housing will... ... increase spoolup time, decrease throttle response, make more bottom end and acceleration smoke, require more rpm and load to produce the same boost as a smaller housing, flow more exhaust gas, lower EGT when under load such as towing (better drive pressure), increase EGT under low throttle, operate more efficiently under high loads, allow heavier fueling while keeping EGT under control.



Decreasing the size of the housing will: decrease spoolup time, increase throttle response, reduce low end and acceleration smoke, make more boost at lower rpm, flow less exhaust gas, increase EGT under high load (excessive drive pressure), decrease EGT under light load, operate more efficiently when under lighter loads such as driving around town and cruising down the highway.



Hope this helps



Note: If you have any questions/comments please PM me and I'll either edit this post or we can start a new thread on this subject. Don't want to clutter up this thread with discussions.



Cheers,

Sean

 

[BushWakr - RIP]

Exactly what I was looking for formula, good job.

Let me add one more thing to formula's post... .



Assuming NO changes to fueling, timing or ANYTHING ELSE (including load) for each housing size you go UP, you loose roughly 2psi boost.



bob.

 

[BushWakr - RIP]

Full change of transmission fluid...

Here is the procedure I would use to change the fluid:

**NOTE** Fluid type: True type "F" or Dexron II or III will give you firmer, crisper shifts than 7176 ATF or other Type 3 fluids.



1. Clean the exterior of the pan and transmission with brake parts cleaner, and scrub brush.



2. Remove/unbolt transmission fluid pan, and drain the fluid.



3. Wipe the fluid pan clean, and replace the gasket.



4. Remove fluid filter element, and loosen the 10 bolts holding the valve body in place (3 turns on each mounting bolt)



5. Let the remaining fluid drain down for 45-60 minutes.



6. Torque the valve body bolts to 105 in. lbs. or 8. 7 ft. lbs.



7. Install the new fluid filter element.



8. Install the fluid pan. Torque bolts to 18 ft. lbs.



9. Pour in 4-5 quarts of fluid before starting engine.



10. Add the remaining fluid with the engine running, shifted in Neutral, and on level terrain.



Special thanks to Nicholas for this sequencing and info.



Bob: 1st Gen Moderator.

 

[RGT]

http://www.techauthority.daimlerchrysler.com/



I just got my service and owner's manuals from the above link, very happy with the on-line transaction. If you don't have the owners manual it is worth the $6. 50 to get it

 

[Underdog]

I don't have the mechanical expertise of some of the other

fellas but,I would like to suggest a few common sense things

pertaining to towing heavy in mountainous terrain



1. Get a good exhaust brake.

2. Install HD valve springs

3. Install a pyrometer.



Keep the RPMs up. Don't "lug " the engine. Don't let the

EGTs get too high during long, hard pulls . Don't EVER

shut the engine down after a hard pull without first lettig

it idle long enough to cool down the turbo.

These are things that most people already know but, new

owners might forget.

 

[Lil' Dog]

The best advise for a new to 1st gen owner? Well start with the basics, get a tune up on that thing by a reputable shop. . This would include timing, valve lash, lift pump pressure, boost (if you don't have gauges), compression and throttle linkage adjustments.



I did this with both my trucks right after I got them, even though they only had 150,000 Km on them at the time. It makes a world of difference to have a baseline that is the stock settings to start from as most owners don't do the tune-ups on a regular basis.



After you know what you have to start with, then I suggest gauges right of the hop, and don't be cheap or you'll be buying them twice. . LOL... Then you can start to tinker with the fuel settings, housings, injectors, exhaust and intake systems.



Another good point is something Bushwakr suggested long ago and thats to check every clamp and bolt in the intake system. They come loose over time and can rob you of a few Lbs boost. Also pressure test the intercooler, after gravel roads, salt and long miles, they tend to get a little fragile.



Happy truckin' !!!



J-eh

 

[jbolt]

Setting Idle....

It seems like no matter what you do there is always something in the way when trying to make adjustments. The locknut in the idle screw can be a bear to get too without disconnecting some fuel lines to the VE pump. After some trial and error I came up with a way to do it without removing anything.



For the locknut I found that a 10mm crowfoot wrech, a 2" extention, a universal and another extension makes short work of getting the nut loose. Slip the assembly between the diaphram housing and the head from the front with your left habd and using your right hand guid the crowfoot onto the nut, snap on the ratchet handle and lossen.



The hardest thing to do on mine was to turn the screw itself. Thee is no room to get a proper screwdiver in and the screw is tight. I made a neat little tool out of some 1/8" music wire. The tool is 2" x 2" with flats on each end. one flat is parrallel and the other perpendicular. The tool is thin enough to get under the fuel lines and turn the screw.



Now the whole process takes less that 5 minutes to do.

 

[BushWakr - RIP]

Web site showing VE pump internals.

Here is a link to a site that shows the Bosch VE pump and it's components. This link may have been posted on the TDR before.

Also, the pump shown is a 4cyl/4 line pump, but is exactly the same as ours using 6 lines/outlets.



http://www.cs.rochester.edu/u/jag/vw/engine/fi/injpump.html



Bob.

 

[jmtandem]

First gen tips

I owned a 91. 5 for over 100,000 miles and sold it with 143,000 miles on the clock. It had at least another 150,000 miles left in it if not a lot more. The silver/grey paint was gone. It was a regular cab 4x4 and the things I suggest to watch are the fuel injection pump and the Getrag transmission. Both failed out of warranty, the Getrag at about 80,000 miles. It started shifting sloppy and in the oil (5-30 motor oil) were metal shavings. The rebuilt Getrag cost through Dodge about $2700 installed. The injection pump failed over a period of about 5000 miles and was noticable in the idle not being real smooth, slight surging while driving and a popping sound at the exhaust at idle. They cost about $1600 installed at the dealer. Consider going to Cummins for the pump instal. Other than that, one set of brakes and rear axle seals at 100,000 miles, steering box, belt, a pinion seal and a thermostat and temp sensor for the grid heaters. In the rear bed I had some small cracking near the rivets where the bed is held to the frame. Easy fix, drill out the rivet holes and replace with bolts and washers. Most first gens tend to smoke white during warm up and some at idle. Mine had a oil leak, possibly from the oil pan gasket, about the size of a quarter every morning. I never figured out whether it was a real leak or just residue from the huge vent tube. The first gens are honest trucks if you can stand the noise and (on the 4x4's) very harsh ride. I drove it 800 miles in one day and was pretty tired of the wind noise around the doors, engine noise, and the ride. Once, with 3000 pounds of wood in the back, I accidentially hit a big speed bump at about 35 mph and I think the truck 'caught air' without any damage to any component. Talk about a harsh ride, unexpectedly catching air in one. Wow!

 

[dpuckett]

Let me add that the owners of 4x2s need to check or get checked their front end bushings and ball joints. Of course, finding a shop to do this is a bit of a challenge. The shop the previous owner took my 93 to couldnt find 3 bad ball joints, and charged him $40 each time to readjust something that would not stay in place. I still have 2 lower control arm bushings that need replaced, havent had the money to get it done yet. I have had 3 4x2s, and 2 4x4s. THe 4x4 has a harder ride, but mine seemed to have less front end trouble. The Cummins engine is a bit heavy for these front suspensions, esp after 150-170K miles.



This goes for any diesel, not just first gens- keep track of fuel economy, and the conditions iin which you got a particular figure. ENgine problems can show themselves iin excessive fuel consumption- valves, air or fuel filter, timing, injector tips getting clogged. Keep track of it for 1000 or so miles, and look for trends. Dont panic if you drop a few mpgs in 1 tank- fuel, headwinds, etc, can contribute. BUt, keep an eye out if the trend continues. Not everyone will get 23 mpg all the time. But if you know about what to expect from your truck, you are a step ahead of the game.



Daniel

 

[sparks57]

I think we should make a up a staged BOMBing list. They have a stage 1-3 list for 2nd gen... so we should have one too. I am still not 100% sure on the order at whitch you should BOMB these trucks. I know the basics... but beyond that it gets all fuzzy.

 

[Dieseldemon]

Tips

The one thing that I have not seen mentioned is to check the timing of all the trucks I have timed I have only found 1 that was timed right if the fuel is not introduced at the right time it will affect the power output and mileage

The 12cm wastegated turbo hsg realy works good on the 1st gen truck because you can not get as much fuel as the p7100 pump



Just my two cents worth

 

["Mad Max"]

Numbers are good

The biggest tip I can give is take the time and spend some money on some gauges and get a baseline for your rig. I just finished installing a tach, pyro, boost, oil, water, and trans temp, and after a nice recent trip I now know exactly how my rig is running and why. I also know that I have good oil pressure and water temp. Oil press is at 44 psi hot at 70 mph, and 20 psi hot at idle. Water temp never went over 170*. Boost peaked at about 14 psi, pyro cruised at 700* and spiked at about 1050* on a hard hill with pedal mashed.

Now, I'm new to the diesel world, but those numbers seem pretty good, and my 93 Ram with 216K miles on her seems to have lots more left to go.

Gauges and numbers are the only way to know.

- S