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Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Biting the bullet... step 1, 2wd to 4wd

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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Tire choices

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So my transmission overdrive housing broke the other day - several chunks of the housing that retain the forward most snap ring sheared off and it smoked my clutches.



I have a 4wd trans/xfer case sitting on the floor that I picked up for $300, guy said it wasn't shifting right so he did a nv4500 swap. I need to tear down my trans and see if the other clutches are ok, they're all reds that I put in when I had Steve build it before I moved back to WA last March (2012).



So I could buy a new extension housing for about $80+ shipping or I could shorten my driveshaft by about 7. 5" for close to the same. Either way I've got to tear down the trans and make sure it's not toast, and at the very least buy new clutches, steels, and a couple bearings and seals.



I've decided to do the 4wd conversion. I want a 4wd anyway, and I can do it in steps. Hang the transfer case now, source a front end down the road and fab up some long arms.
 
Sounds like a big project, but will be well worth it when finished. Have you considered doing a Ford spindle swap? If the Dodge axle you get has a bunch of worn out parts (universal joints, ball joints, etc) the extra cost would be very little. It is a cheap alternative to a Dynatrac kit or similar. It's a real shame Dodge went away from the manual hubs (or at least the option) after the first gens.





Here is a link with a decent write up, gives you an idea of what would be involved.

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/dodge/874442-dodge-ram-2500-4x4-dana-60-hub-removal--conversion-ford-knucles.html



A lot of the parts needed could be sourced from the junk yard and would be only a little extra work to do before sliding the axle underneath.



Not sure what year your truck is but if you plan to keep the OEM hubs I would at least look into using a front axle out of a 00-02. They went to slip on rotors starting in 00, prior to that the rotors were pressed into the wheel bearing with the wheel studs. Big PITA to work on.

I am not sure of any differences in the way the axles mount and how difficult it would be to get a 00-02 axle under a 99 and earlier truck, but IMO it would be worth looking into.
 
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Slip on rotor is good info, didn't know that but I definitely want it...
I don't have an axle, got a line on a rolling chassis but it's another 12-valve. I've seen several front axles for sale recently so I'm not worried about being able to get one. Knowing that I'm going to want an 00-02 helps.
 
I think this is an awesome project. You will be very happy when your done. I did the Ford conversion three years ago.

https://www.turbodieselregister.com/forums/showthread.php?226856-Whoa-nellie!

It is far superior to the free spin kits out there because you get two piston Ford calipers. My truck stops straight and predictable every time. Since I have removed my rotors three times in 16 years, I don't mind having to tap the studs out to remove them. That said, the 00-02 front axle will give you "acceptable" dodge brakes. It is my understanding they can be upgraded to 2010 dodge brakes. I have recently swapped in a Dana 80 with 4. 10 years and I need a 4. 10 front axle to replace mine with 3. 55s. I purchased a 2002 front axle so the Ford outer knuckle will no longer work. I will have to drill the 02 Dodge knuckle to accept a Ford spindle and hub. I have not decided whether I'm going to sell the whole front axle with spindles/hubs, or whether I'm going to put the dodge parts back on the axle and sell the spindles/hubs for someone else to use. My new to me front axle should be here in a few days so I should make a decision soon.

No matter what route you decide to take, just don't waist you time and money on the vacuum actuated central axle disconnect (CAD). Either go with CAD delete axles or the Posi-Loc.

I hope your project goes well. Be safe, enjoy yourself, and good luck.
 
Yeah I wasn't going to mess with running vacuum lines for the CAD. My 86 W250 had the CAD and having it fail to engage once was enough for me to go get a Posi lok.

I haven't made much progress, I still need to pull the rest of my trans off the truck and tear it down. The overdrive clutches are wasted, I'm hoping the rest of them are still ok but I'm not holding my breath.

Are the >99 brakes that much worse than the <00?
 
Cosmo I have a set of Axles from a 95 if they will work ? I'm not up on second gen stuff and shipping won't be that bad I have a company I use that I get great rates from . PM me if your Interested .

Val
 
Cosmo your in Wa, right? there has been quite a few rollers for sale on craigs list over the last couple of years, why not just swap frames and running gear?
 
Thanks Val, like budnate said there are plenty of locals unless you're giving them away...

I've got a line on a 96 rolling chassis a mile or two down the road. Swapping the cab and engine over seems like more work.
 
having done it both ways, I would rather swap frames, stuff lines up and runs at the right angles when your done, fabbing and welding the front stuff on a 2wd frame is pita! and usually ends up a tad off unless you have access to real nice shop to work out of and a good helper.
 
Maybe it's Different on the second gen's but after doing Several First gen swap's there a Piece of Cake to do .
 
Got my rocker pedestals machined for my head studs finally. Local machine shop didn't have a milling machine that could deal with it, but I talked to him and brought one in for him to put his hands on, and he made a call to another shop. That guy said he didn't have time to deal with it, but if Dave wanted to come do it, he'd let him use his machine. Sweet.

Dave came back and then said I cost him a couple grand because now he's buying the other dude's machine.

Awesome.

I'm ordering some sport headlights, starter rebuild kit, and a vacuum pump seal kit too. While the truck is down, I might as well address my biggest complaints - crappy lights, leaky vacuum pump, and slow cranking.
 
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