Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Boost guage

[fnny6770]

I have a 2001 ram 3500 with a 5.9 cummings, auto transmission, Where is a good place to connect a boost gauge to? thank you

 

[SAndreasen]

Genos garage sells a Banjo type bolt that you can just install in one of the bolt holes in the intake then you can plumb your gauge into that

 

[fnny6770]

Thank You, does it matter what bolt I replace it with? I don't know diesels very well, I know gas engines and have rebuilt many. We bought this truck new and other than periodic maintenance, its stock. I started pulling a new 30 foot fifth wheel trailer and its heavy, close to 14,000lbs, I would also like to up the power some for towing, but don't know how. Ive been reading up on it and theres a lot of stuff that can be done to a cummings.

 

[RonaldLarson]

Gauges!!!

Thank You, does it matter what bolt I replace it with? I don't know diesels very well, I know gas engines and have rebuilt many. We bought this truck new and other than periodic maintenance, its stock. I started pulling a new 30 foot fifth wheel trailer and its heavy, close to 14,000lbs, I would also like to up the power some for towing, but don't know how. Ive been reading up on it and theres a lot of stuff that can be done to a cummings.

Pulling that weight dictates more than a boost gauge. (No "G" in Cummins). You will need exhaust temp, fuel pressure and trans temp. I also recommend a triple disc convertor and convertor lockup controller. Check out ATS in Wheatridge Co. for these convertor parts. The controller will reduce your transmission temp dramatically.
Depending upon what you have for a lift pump, you should consider a frame mounted pump to feed the injector pump. Considering your trailer weight, low fuel pressure from heavy towing will cook your injection pump. The stock pump works well for non-towing work.
After all this is done, you are ready for more power. The electronics for raising power should include maximum boost modifying. If not, you will need to install a boost orifice in the rubber hose that feeds the waste gate, which raises the max boost to cool the engine combustion.
Remember, your diesel engine warms with loads, cools with light loads or coasting and idling.
Adding fuel with bigger injectors or electronics without raising max boost first is essential.
Tell us what your axle ratio is, please.

 

[fnny6770]

Thank You for the info, the factory build sheet says under the maximum rated loads, it has a 3.54 axle ratio, I thought it had a 4.10 but its not on the sheet so it must be a 3.54, I can lift the truck to verify that if needed. the truck is the 3500 dual wheels, its been a great truck, The transmission is a 4-speed auto, 47RE. We pulled the trailer up into Yellowstone in Idaho and its pretty steep. We was down to 30 MPH, peddle almost to the floor, the engine was running hotter than ive ever seen it, it didn't over heat but I was concerned because it was very close to hot and you could smell the heat, so I back off the throttle and kept it at 30 mph, turned off the air conditioning thinking wow this is steep and hard pulling. it would have been nice to have a transmission temp gauge. I would like to change the radiator to a larger one too. The stock radiator is a 2 core aluminum, plenty of radiator for general towing and driving. I would like to increase the power for towing without going over board.

 

[SnoKing]

OK, here is the deal. You can not increase to power much without first addressing the 47RE transmission and torque converter. When pulling hard did you hear the fan clutch cycle on and off(loud roar when engaged)? If you are turning around 1700 to 1800 RPM at 62-63 MPH you have 3.54's. 2000 RPM's at 62-63 is 4:10's. Depending on trailer weight you may want an exhaust brake, which requires a torque converter lockup box.

Does in have disc brakes on the rear(2001.5) or drum(2001)?

How much does your trailer weigh? Are you going to tow in the mountains a lot?

Gauges:

Pyro
Boost
transmission temp at outlet line(forget the pan temp)
Fuel Pressure gauge.

#ad


You might want to read this old thread! SNOKING
https://www.turbodieselregister.com...001-5-Auto-to-Tow-and-Stop?highlight=building

 

[fnny6770]

I just looked up the dry weight of the trailer, its is 9235lbs, not what I thought it was, loaded its probably 10800lbs give or take.
The truck has disk brakes on the rear so that makes it a 2001.5? The truck has the camper and towing packages. The fan clutch you could hear kicking on and off except when we was pulling the hills, then it was roaring constantly. I will have to take it for a ride and see where the RPMs are at 62-63 mph. as far as camping in the mountains, we probably will on an average scale. We bought it to use for camping and for pulling to places from coast to coast. We have not pulled anything behind the trailer yet even though it has a receiver hitch.

Nice gauge setup, where did you get them?

 

[SAndreasen]

I pull way way heavier than in the mountains if you getting it that hot with that size of load you need to pull your radiator and take to the car wash the last one I did didn't look bad but when I started to washing it cost me 25.00$ to get it clean. Also I would not add any more power with an auto transmission without upgrading it . A trans temp and fuel psi would be the bare minimum gauges i would shoot for with a stock truck if the turbo quits you won't need a boost gauge to know it and the egt I've never seen go to high on a stock truck .

 

[SnoKing]

I just looked up the dry weight of the trailer, its is 9235lbs, not what I thought it was, loaded its probably 10800lbs give or take.
The truck has disk brakes on the rear so that makes it a 2001.5? The truck has the camper and towing packages. The fan clutch you could hear kicking on and off except when we was pulling the hills, then it was roaring constantly. I will have to take it for a ride and see where the RPMs are at 62-63 mph. as far as camping in the mountains, we probably will on an average scale. We bought it to use for camping and for pulling to places from coast to coast. We have not pulled anything behind the trailer yet even though it has a receiver hitch.

Nice gauge setup, where did you get them?

The A-Pillar pods are available at many sources. The first three gauges are Banks and the fuel pressure was added later in its own pod. It is a mechanical gauge with isolator. SNOKING

 

[RonaldLarson]

Thank You for the info, the factory build sheet says under the maximum rated loads, it has a 3.54 axle ratio, I thought it had a 4.10 but its not on the sheet so it must be a 3.54, I can lift the truck to verify that if needed. the truck is the 3500 dual wheels, its been a great truck, The transmission is a 4-speed auto, 47RE. We pulled the trailer up into Yellowstone in Idaho and its pretty steep. We was down to 30 MPH, peddle almost to the floor, the engine was running hotter than ive ever seen it, it didn't over heat but I was concerned because it was very close to hot and you could smell the heat, so I back off the throttle and kept it at 30 mph, turned off the air conditioning thinking wow this is steep and hard pulling. it would have been nice to have a transmission temp gauge. I would like to change the radiator to a larger one too. The stock radiator is a 2 core aluminum, plenty of radiator for general towing and driving. I would like to increase the power for towing without going over board.

You must start from step one. Pulling that weight without upgrades is going to damage your engine. With 3.54 gears, you are over capacity. Most of the heat rise you saw was likely exhaust gas temp. You have done nothing to increase boost, which cools EGT. Gauges are critical, but do not solve your power issue. Step one: 4 inch exhaust. Step 2, 275 HP injectors. Step 3, increase boost pressure Step 4, add power module to control timing and fuel flow (Edge Products). Step5, 3 clutch convertor. Step 6, convertor lockup controller Step 7, High performance transmission bands and clutches. If you continue to tow that monster, change gears to 4.11. Step 8, EGT, Trans temp, fuel pressure and boost gauges.
All this is from my many years towing with my truck and working in service at a Dodge dealer. Trust me, you'll love your truck even more when you treat it right.
P.S. Do not ever use a K&N air filter. Stick with Cummins only, same with oil, no Fram, only Cummins.

 

[SnoKing]

The HY-35 Turbo is a stumbling block! It can be J-hooked, but a better turbo is in order in the long run. I went with a PDR-35-12W, which is a tuned up HX-35, which spools similar to the small HY-35.

Steps after fixing any cooling system issues.

1. Gauges Pyro, Boost, transmission Temp on output line and fuel pressure. If you do not do this, stop do not pass go!
2. The Dodge in that vintage had a restricted tail pipe above the rear diff, so a good 4" exhaust is a good idea, however that should be done in conjunction with turbo and exhaust brake.
3. Remove air box boot to fender and drill 6 or 8 1" holes in bottom and side near fender in bottom half of air box.
4. Transmission / torque converter
5. Lift pump
6. Injectors - RV275's are good for towing.
7. Timing box or Smarty.

Slipperly Slope

I went with a 4" Banks turbo mounted Exhaust Brake because my step son was a wholesaler at the time, which caused me to stay with the HY/HX style turbo outlet flange. Brake was original on HY and stayed there with the HX turbo. My exhaust was originally Magnaflow 4" SS, and now is Banks down pipe and intermediate pipe, then the rest is still Magnaflow.

I have 4:10 gears which are best for towing with the 47RE transmission!

Check your throttle linkage as noted near the end of the link I provided above.

I tow a 12K+ 5th wheel and would not do it with this vintage Dodge/Cummins/47RE transmission combination WITHOUT an exhaust brake! The torque converter does not lock on compression and you just free wheel down grades relying on service and trailer brakes.

SNOKING

 

[SAndreasen]

Towed

You must start from step one. Pulling that weight without upgrades is going to damage your engine. With 3.54 gears, you are over capacity. Most of the heat rise you saw was likely exhaust gas temp. You have done nothing to increase boost, which cools EGT. Gauges are critical, but do not solve your power issue. Step one: 4 inch exhaust. Step 2, 275 HP injectors. Step 3, increase boost pressure Step 4, add power module to control timing and fuel flow (Edge Products). Step5, 3 clutch convertor. Step 6, convertor lockup controller Step 7, High performance transmission bands and clutches. If you continue to tow that monster, change gears to 4.11. Step 8, EGT, Trans temp, fuel pressure and boost gauges.
All this is from my many years towing with my truck and working in service at a Dodge dealer. Trust me, you'll love your truck even more when you treat it right.
P.S. Do not ever use a K&N air filter. Stick with Cummins only, same with oil, no Fram, only Cummins.

Towed over 25'000 with my 01 never ever seen over 1300 degrees pre turbo exhaust gas temp with 3.54 gear 285/75/16 tires delivered living quarter horse trailers all over the west running 60 hp tuner and stock turbo with my 01 never over heated the radiator either . Towed 30,000 with the same truck around the farm all the time. 47re transmission

 

[SAndreasen]

I pull these loads everyday I know what towing and towing heavy means

 

[SAndreasen]

Nothing under 24000 here

 

[NIsaacs]

Some nice loads, the dually will pack some weight, I would move that tractor all the way forward and take some weight off the trailer. Are those mobile home axles?

Nick

 

[fnny6770]

Thank You all for the good info. Like mentioned earlier, I dont know much about diesel engines so this is going to be a good learning experience. That's some heavy towing alright!!!
I am going to keep pulling the trailer , in the mean time it sounds like I have some money to save up for parts. Its going to be a good project to have done by spring.

 

[fnny6770]

Thank You guys, its going to be a good learning project. Where do You guys recommend I get the parts from?

 

[fnny6770]

Snoking,

Does your truck have the little tweeter speakers in the pillers? Mine does, down on the bottom and I cant tell if the piller gauge pod will work from looking at your picture

 

[SAndreasen]

Some nice loads, the dually will pack some weight, I would move that tractor all the way forward and take some weight off the trailer. Are those mobile home axles?

Nick

Thanks ya the dually will carry some weight I'm glad I finally got one I usually load the tractor right between the trailer axles that way the truck and trailer are loaded about equal the axles are set up like on log trailer its a walking beam axle setup no leaf springs it has 8 tires

 

[SAndreasen]

Thank You guys, its going to be a good learning project. Where do You guys recommend I get the parts from?

Get a genos catalog they have everything you need
www.genosgarage.com