Carli’s or Dynatrac for ball joints?

[Wayne M.]

Your thread made it seem so easy to change out the ball joints.... I remember this job kicking my butt!



Can you explain this breaker bar/vise grip for checking pulley's and idlers?

Scroll down a bit on the second page of this thread -
https://www.turbodieselregister.com...ion.209047/page-2?highlight=breaker+bar,+belt
It works unless you have a steering box stabilizer or other device blocking this area.

 

[Blakers]

I installed Dynatracs on my 03 in 2010. Over 150,000 miles on them. No issues. I run 315-70-17 tires and see plenty of rough dirt roads. Well tended for three years through all kinds of deep mud and snow.

Blake

 

[RVTRKN]

I probably should have done my ball joints, when I changed the unit bearings to Yukon free spinning hubs. But that was $2800 +or- a few bucks in parts and tools, to self perform the Yukon install. I like the Dynatrac ball joints being rebuildable while in the truck, if they are indeed capable of that. However, it only takes an hour each side to go as far as I went for the Yukon install, so it will be my next major project, when I have the down time. In case anyone is interested I linked the Thread.
https://www.turbodieselregister.com/threads/spyntec-or-yukon-free-spinning-hubs.266578/

 

[WalterJ]

Greetings; I had Carli BJ's installed 7.5yrs & 125K miles ago. All is well. Ditto previous comment re: installing a 90 deg Zerk & unloading them for greasing.
FYI: I've been using Red Line synth grease for a long time. Good luck.

 

[Blakers]

Has anyone ever had a Dynatrac joint fail? If so, at what mileage, and were you able to rebuild it with their rebuild kit?

 

[mwilson]

3500 miles on the Carli's...they have broken in.

Steers easier than my Caddy. You can actually drive 30 miles or so without thinking about steering the truck.....

 

[cerberusiam]

Has anyone ever had a Dynatrac joint fail? If so, at what mileage, and were you able to rebuild it with their rebuild kit?

Not fail but they do wear. After 40k of a beating on our roads they had to be disassembled and reset. Probably going to 80k or so out of them then need a rebuild. Better thna a normal joint that was getting beat to death at 30k.

 

[mwilson]

Update...

Took truck out of storage and it handles just as good as it did last fall when I put it up.

That was NOT the case with the Factory or Moog ball joints, had to chase and make corrections for steering constantly for the first few thousand miles. Then it would relent a bit but still not great...exhausting on a longer trip....

Still consider the Carli's the best upgrade so far to the truck....

 

[HOCummins04]

Dumb question time. ANY advice and wisdom welcome.
Bought my 04.5 4x4 QCLB 6 speed new. Drove for the first year for work, then got a company vehicle that lasted until I got cut in 2019. Still out of work. NOT flush with $$$.
63k miles. For years, other than occasionally hauling a refrigerator or water heater, mostly highway miles empty. No regular towing.
Found out today I have play in both upper and lower ball joints, maybe a little more than 1/4 inch movement. Factory units in truck now. Never been replaced.
Still have original tires, with many good miles left on them.
1. Do I need to replace the hub/bearing when I replace the ball joints?
1.5. If so, what brand(s) are recommended hub and/or bearing?
2. What does adjustability mean in ball joints?
3. I remember asking at the dealership years ago when the truck was new and being told there is nothing to lube on this truck. AFAIK, it has never been lubed. I've done every oil change myself. I hate taking my truck to anyone, but due to health problems I'm not able to tackle a job like ball joint replacement anymore. I've got a local garage that I have had good success for several years on my wife's van and my daughter's car. While I am asking, is there anything that needs lubed?

I have noticed a low volume growling noise below 20 mph with the driver window down for a year or two when first starting out. Since getting laid off 19 months ago, I don't drive it much at all.
I don't want to put junk in it, but have to be careful with the money.
I haven't been active on the site for years as I had no extra money due to a 25% paycut I took. They eventually came back and got the other 75%. LOL. So, if these questions have been answered in another thread, I did not find it in my search.

Thanks in advance for your help.

 

[cerberusiam]

As long as there is not excess play or noise when spinning the hubs do not need to replace them. Woul dnot hurt to get your garage to lube them thru the ABS sensor hole if they are tight.

1/4 inch is too much if it is truly that. With 63k miles hard to say they are bad but it is 17 years old so possible. If you are not using it hard and you drive on goat trails all day every day just get the NAPA premium BJ's and hubs as needed and save the $$. They works as well as high dollar stuff just not as long.

Adjustability to an extent can be done in quality BJ's to tighten them up, DynaTrac's in particular. Not really needed unless you want to drop the $$. You can usually do 3 BJ changes with stock style for the cost on the higher $$ ones and in that time you will likely have to rebuild even the Carli or DynaTrac.

The growling could be huds, brakes, u-joints, etc. Best to have it traced down. IIRC, stock the only thing greasable in the front DS, just have to check the steering to see. That stuff is so long gone do not remember what is there stock.

 

[AH64ID]

I agree with the above.

Be sure to look at the driveshaft, they have been the culprit of a lot of low speed growling when not serviced.

I'd also caution you about running around on 17 year old tires, that's asking for a tire failure. Generally LT tires have a 10 year lifespan before they should be replaced, regardless of remaining tread.

 

[cerberusiam]

Agree on the tires also. Don't expect most shops to even touch them if you have a flat, over 6 years old and they will only dismount and replace them.

A questionable tire on these trucks is just asking for trouble, especially front tires.