Chain Saw Recommendations

[NIsaacs]

The intellicarb is mechanical.

I went with the MS362 because it is the professional series, even thou I use it like a homeowner. I have ran the pro and non-pro Stihl's and simply prefer the operation of the pro saws. Stronger and longer lasting, like a Cummins My MS362 is smaller than your MS391 (59vs64 cc's) but makes more power (4.7 vs 4.4 bhp).

Okay, thanks. I guess I should have went ahead and worked on it. I was intimidated....Only 4.4 bhp, I need a turbo

Some of the issues might be a dirty muffler screen. I keep thinking the saw is new but it is 3.5 years old, probably due. I was frustrated with it and not thinking clear, just dropped it off at the shop. I might get a $$$ lesson...

 

[GCroyle]

The other thing I looked at in the parts book was ignition system. A coil wire and kill switch harness that’s all.

I have worked on the top handle climbing saw and one of them had a harness going to the carb. Still learning about those.

 

[STeichert]

I like this old thread going again. Here is a load from this fall right before we got hit with a lot of snow. It’s my old ‘98 12 valve and my ms361, ms261, and my wife’s little ms180. The pro saws are a better power to weight ratio, better anti vibration, and a magnesium case vs a polymer case. Plus the ms261 has the captive bar nuts. The other saws are still great saws.

 

[Dl5treez]

Can you explain that more in depth? I have always wondered why the commercial grade cost so much more. The MS391 is the top farm saw but cheaper than a smaller engine equipped commercial saw. The price/size was why I picked it. Same engine size as my Pioneer P42. I didn't want to get any smaller.

So it used to be the saws rarely changed in design but lately—like most everything else—everyone feels the need to reengineer and change things.....

The most basic difference was construction. Polycarbonate/plastic frame structures v. magnesium. Plastic pieces in place of metal. (Oil pumps, side covers, etc). Professional grade saws are designed to be field repairable. You can perform essentially an “in frame” on your pickup’s tailgate.

Engine cases are all metal v. some midgrade Husqvarna having polycarbonate lower crankcase sections. Engines that bolt directly to the magnesium frame v. sitting in a polycarbonate cradle. Nickel/chrome plating on cylinder bores, forged connecting rods v. cast, higher compression, better porting, better filters, bigger carburetors, adjustable oilers, captive bar nut adjusters, etc.

This is a 6 year old video at time of posting so it could be slightly out of date but the producer does a great job comparing the professional MS261 to the midrange MS271.

They’re always changing so this is subject to, well, change since it’s from 2016...

 

[NIsaacs]

Wow, big differences with the pro v/s homeowners. I always wondered why the price difference, now I can justify it. Still can't afford the 462

 

[bighammer]

I've always had Stihl until my Husqvarna. Let me back up just a little, I was given a Stihl 036 as sort of a housewarming gift from my dad after building my first house. It was a great saw. I didn't like the local dealer and was starting to visit them more often as parts were wearing out.

The Husqvarna dealer is a general store, but they have a great selection and service dept, and a much more friendly and helpful attitude. I bought a 550xp and it's been an awesome saw so far. It does have an electronic carb, which took a little getting used to, but it's been very dependable. There are just a couple things I don't like about it. First, the sprocket is behind the clutch. Sort of a PITA changing chains. (I could've swapped a chain on my Stihl in the dark) The brake was built into the cover and also sort of fiddly to get back together. (I finally just removed the whole brake system)

There was a listing craigslist for a deal on new Jonsered saws. The guy had bought a pallet of them when Tractor Supply quit carrying them. It came with a 24" bar, but I also bought a 32" bar and some skiptooth chains. Awesome saw!

 

[Dl5treez]

Wow, big differences with the pro v/s homeowners. I always wondered why the price difference, now I can justify it. Still can't afford the 462

The 046/MS460/61/62 is in many professional’s opinion the overall best chainsaw Stihl produces. Enough power to handle a 36+” bar in big timber felling but also reasonably light enough to cut firewood with a 20-24” bar. They rarely run out of power, especially when tuned/ported, and every timber faller I know, if forced to only have one Stihl saw, would pick it.

 

[Dl5treez]

Just for fun too, this is what I think is the best instructional video on YouTube regarding basic timber felling. Lots of misinformation out there about the topic. Mark is exceptionally good at it, both doing and teaching.

 

[Killer223]

my saws are old. i have 2 stihl 026, a 360, and a 660. one of the 026 has an 18" bar the other a 20", the 360 has a 20" and 24", the 660 has 24, 32, 48" bars.
i've cut well over 500 cords with these saws.
if i were to only own one. it would be the 360. great power to weight ratio.
i knock the trees down with the 660, and cut to lengths with it. then limb with the 026. if the trees are small enough i use the 360 for all of it. thats about 8' across at the base. make tables and mantles with these, their the reason for the larger saws and bar. i'm waiting to find a good deal on a 088.

 

[GCroyle]

Nice diversion thread.

January this year a friend helped me with a project, needed his electrical skills. Asked if he needed help with anything he handed me a MS210 that didn't run correctly. It SCREAMED on full choke. Some of you already know what the problem was took me a little poking around etc to find the air leak. New crank seals and sealing the bottom end and it's back to service. It sent me to a local dealer for parts, that's a key clue. Pic is at full teardown, yeah it's a mess I know.

Then he had a Homelite and a Poulan neither had any TLC in years. Poulan got carb work, Homelite needed carb and resealing. Both are on reserve duty to the MS210. More trips to dealer.

After several trips to dealer they had a help wanted sign posted and I threw my hat in the ring. All of those parts getting purchased on old nasty stuff, somebody remembered and told boss to talk with me.

I got the part time job.

We get homeowner saws and some of those should be confiscated from the owner, commercial tree company saws also some confiscations are in order, landscapers and whatever but the focus is on Stihl and Husqvarna. I've done work on Stihl climbing saws mostly handle R&R due to damage up to an MS660 that's the biggest one I've wrenched on.

I enjoy the bench work and the challenge of putting it back into service and I'm working part time with a good crew. And the guy that pays me is the same guy I bought my MS290 from earlier in this thread. And I now have my OWN bench!

Gary

 

[CVR222NV]

Great discussion. I have been looking at chainsaws and this is very helpful. I'm still a little confused on the carburetors that are described in these two versions of the MS362:

STIHL MS 362 Chainsaw - Professional Use Mid Size Chainsaws | STIHL USA

MS 362 C-M with M-Tronic Engine Management Technology | STIHL USA

Both are expensive but minimal price difference between the two. Mostly for use with firewood for my smoker but the SIL and I have talked about building a log house. Just wondering if anyone has any experience with the new M-Tronic technology?

 

[Topzide]

@CVR222NV, You mention building a log home, I've used a Haddon Lumber maker (http://www.haddontools.com/) for slabbing out a Black Walnut that fell at a buddy's house. Did a real nice job with slabs. Once they seasoned a bit more in loft of shed, going through planner and onto project of making a couple tables. Did this with a bit under sized saw (CS-400 w/ 18" bar). With a larger saw, would have been quicker. No need for special chains, just keep them sharp and change out often. Portable chain sharpener from HF worked great with inverter for touch ups.

 

[Dl5treez]

Great discussion. I have been looking at chainsaws and this is very helpful. I'm still a little confused on the carburetors that are described in these two versions of the MS362:

STIHL MS 362 Chainsaw - Professional Use Mid Size Chainsaws | STIHL USA

MS 362 C-M with M-Tronic Engine Management Technology | STIHL USA

Both are expensive but minimal price difference between the two. Mostly for use with firewood for my smoker but the SIL and I have talked about building a log house. Just wondering if anyone has any experience with the new M-Tronic technology?

The simple terms. The M-tronic is a computer controlled carburetor. The other one has the regular carburetor.

M-tronic essentially takes away the high side and low side adjustment/“mixture” screws and replaces them with little electronic solenoid valves and some airflow management sensors.

 

[Mark31]

I have a Husky 575XP with 20" and 32" bars and a Shindaiwa 500 that I bought in 1989 after hurricane Hugo. It has a small flywheel and is harder to pull than the Husky. Get a good grip on the cord or it will be snatched out of your hand once in a while and it smarts! If you don't follow through, occasionally it will run backwards. A friend had his Shindaiwa 488 run backwards on a Monday morning after a party weekend. He thought the haints had him! I run pure gas 89 octane and Echo/Shindaiwa oil (has stabilizer) and don't worry about how old it is. I pulled out an old spare (neglected) Kawasaki trimmer that had old fuel and it went right to work. The Echo oil is much cheaper. I read mixing heavy on oil lowers octane?

 

[GCroyle]

Great discussion. I have been looking at chainsaws and this is very helpful. I'm still a little confused on the carburetors that are described in these two versions of the MS362:

Just wondering if anyone has any experience with the new M-Tronic technology?

I do not have experience on the M-Tronic system but this video caught my eye regarding the system and software. Pretty extensive.

 

[Dl5treez]

I do not have experience on the M-Tronic system but this video caught my eye regarding the system and software. Pretty extensive.

I believe what he is referring to in regards to addressing the solenoids that meter the fuel is that originally the M Tronic solenoid valves had plastic seats/internals and Stihl used a 30 micron fuel filter. This proved, problematic.

The updates are metal solenoid valve internals and a 15 micron filter. Much-er better-er.

 

[Topzide]

On oil mixing, more oil is a bit of a balance. More oil affects the screen in the muffler which causes loss of power. I've removed the screens as I don't run them in parks were they're required. I've ran the Super Tech marine 2 cycle oil in my equipment since new with no issues! Echo has recommended mix with their oil of 3.8 oz per gallon. You'd wait a long time to get all of it out of bottle! I mix about 4.5 oz per gallon. That way I know it has slightly more the the 3.8 oz it needs. Little smoke at times, mainly on the trimmer. Started this year of non-ethanol fuel, much more power then before with all equipment! Worth the extra $ and will see how they start after hibernation.

 

[Cummins12V98]

I have used AMZ/OIL 2 cycle since the late 70's. Nice not to have a ton of blue smoke in your face. Rarely had to replace spark plugs.

 

[Dl5treez]

Techniques abound; Started running a Stihl 009 around 9-10 years old. Stihl was all my dad would purchase for the business. I have a couple Huskys now, and a Jonsered, but never really got into the other brands. Nothing wrong with them, just always had great experiences with Stihl. Being in logging country helps as the saw shops have exceptional customer service after the sell and many are tuners, on customer request.

For Stihl it was always 32:1 in the older saws, 50:1 in the newer ones. (Sometimes we go 32:1 in the newer non-M tronic larger saws if they are running hard and especially long days.)

I don’t like using water cooled 2 cycle engine oil in air cooled equipment.

Stihl and Husky both offer premixed fuel in cans that last for 2 years after opening. 95 octane or so. Synthetic oils. Great stuff but it’s like $15-20 a gallon. When you run through a few hundred gallons of saw gas a year it adds up!

I mix 1 gallon at a time and don’t keep it much past two weeks. Use non ethanol 93 octane from the local card lock and basic Stihl orange bottles of premix. Knock on wood haven’t had a powerhead fail prematurely yet!

 

[AH64ID]

I have used AMZ/OIL 2 cycle since the late 70's. Nice not to have a ton of blue smoke in your face. Rarely had to replace spark plugs.

As an Amsoil dealer I ran it for a long time, but I find the Stihl HP-Ultra synthetic burns cleaner. It’s the only oil I buy that isn’t Amsoil.

I first tired the HP-Ultra in a weed eater because it doubled
my warranty. I didn’t want two jugs of gas so I ran it for two years. I was so impressed with how it burned that I never switched back to Amsoil.