2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Clunk in steering wheel

[HookMeUp]

When I'm driving and going over bumps I feel a clunking in the steering wheel. I'm trying to track it down. I just had the ball joints replaced, a new borgenson steering shaft, and alignment. I checked the bushing at the end of the steering column, feels solid. What could it be?

 

[KRStone]

Could be tie rods and or track bar.

 

[HookMeUp]

Replaced worn out shocks and all is good now.

 

[Axtell3]

My current clunk, I can feel through the floorboard under my left foot, not so much through the steering column, Iv'e yanked on the control arms to see if I could get movement there, no dice. Shocks have surface rust on the outers, but aren't leaking. Were yours visibly faulty?

 

[HookMeUp]

No visible signs of wear, rust or fluid leaks. Truck has 105,000 miles and these were the stock shocks. When towing the 5th wheel when ever I stopped the front end would oscillate 4 or 5 times before settling down. Truck would also bounce all over the place on ruff roads. I had the shocks replaced with some KYB MonoMax's, what a difference they make! After they were installed I drove over the same ruff road that the truck would bounce around on, it drove over the bumps so smoothly I thought I was on different road.

 

[Axtell3]

That dosn't match my symptoms. I'm thinking control arm bushing replacement in my future. Thanks, Glad you got yours figured out.

 

[mwilson]

I had a similar noise on the '97 when I first bought it. Kept getting a little worse over time. Kind of a thunk/rattle.



Got to checking things over, shocks had been changed not long before I purchased the truck.

Put a wrench to things and discovered that the lower shock bolt on the left hand had not been torqued, I could spin it with the hand wrench.

Tightened to spec, noise went away.



Worth a try...



Mike.

 

[Axtell3]

I'll try that.

 

[HookMeUp]

Driving to work this morning and the clunking is back! When I got home this evening I crawled under the truck and started checking things out. When I grabbed the steering shaft and wiggled it I could hear the clunking noise. Thought the bushing in the column was worn, nope no movement there. I grabbed it down by the steering box and the input shaft was flopping back and forth. Looks like it's time for a new steering box.

 

[KRStone]

JB weld and a ring of duct tape

If you get the upgraded box from genos I think you'll need to grind on it forst. The genos catalog talks about it

 

[HWestfall]

Try Rock solid Steering it is a replacement for the lower bushing in the steering tube. They are around $60. 00. I have heard they work great. Harry

 

[rdriver]

I'm a first timer and relatively new to posting plus I am not a mechanic but I do know enough to mess something up...Well in any event I've been a Ford man all my adult life (7.3 diesel) until I experienced a few issues with an engine change that went bad and expensive so I decided on a Dodge. Couldn't afford a new one so I searched for over a year before I located a (one owner) 2005 ram 2500 in Mansfield, Texas and bought it in June. It had all I wanted (no 4/wd) heavy duty etc. I've noticed, as others on this site, a rattle as opposed to a clunk, on rough roads. Obviously, I would appreciate a little guidance in the search for a reasonably cost effective fix to the problem. I would appreciate any guidance any of you folks could give.
Thanks.

 

[rdriver]

Ram Rattle

I'm a first timer and relatively new to posting plus I am not a mechanic but I do know enough to mess something up...Well in any event I've been a Ford man all my adult life (7.3 diesel) until I experienced a few issues with an engine change that went bad and expensive so I decided on a Dodge. Couldn't afford a new one so I searched for over a year before I located a (one owner) 2005 ram 2500 in Mansfield, Texas and bought it in June. It had all I wanted (no 4/wd) heavy duty etc. I've noticed, as others on this site, a rattle as opposed to a clunk, on rough roads. Obviously, I would appreciate a little guidance in the search for a reasonably cost effective fix to the problem. I would appreciate any guidance any of you folks could give.
Thanks.

PS: Sorry about the duplicity. Again, I'm a first timer !!!

 

[Joe Mc]

rdriver welcome! Here's a quick and cheap place to start looking - check the shock bushes top and bottom. have someone jounce the front end as you view the bushes if there's movement or split/cracks start there. Also listen for the noise while someone is jouncing the front end. Another idea, lie down by the front bumper so you can view all front end parts and while (someone you trust) is in the truck, engine running, have them wiggle (about 1/2 turn) the wheel left/right while you look at all the moving parts. You might hear the noise or not, if safe you can place a hand on moving steering gear and "feel" things too. Be careful not to get close to the spinning pulleys and the accessory belt = not good...

Others have mentioned control arm bushings and such. These too can be checked with similar as above method, only more caution is needed as more danger involved... With someone (once again that you trust) behind the wheel, engine running, you laying on the "side" of the front wheel looking at the arm to frame end, have helper at the wheel move the truck forward and hit the brakes quick, same thing moving truck rearward. If you see movement = bingo. Now for the front diff to arm check, here's where it gets real dangerous, 1st lie down "center of front" and have the helper at the wheel move truck rear ward and hit the brakes hard while you observe arm end. I suggest for when you need to have the helper at the wheel move forward that you get a broom or something to place in your hand (arm extended fully) as a reference to show them where the front of the truck is (meaning a place for them to "STOP" moving forward) so you can view any movement.

Should you determine the control arm bushings are worn, instead of replacing with stock units, I suggest considering "Tubular Control Arms". I did this and the complete kit, (upper and lower arms & bushings) cost less than the replacement bushings. Also, the stock bushings (at the time) were not available. I think I got mine at "Top Guns Customz" they were around $200.00

 

[rdriver]

Joe Mc,
Thanks for the in depth info....There's nothing like experience. I'll try your recommendations. The rattle seems to have gotten worse.

Thanks Again!!