Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Clutch before Mods?

[barngal6]

I have a 98 12v 5speed manual trans, 4x4 4. 10



I use it for towing, 10K max , don't see more than that in my future...



New to me, I think it is bone stock... I have a K&N FIPK air filter waiting to install...



Of course I want to do gauges, then?



I guess I am worried about doing a #10 fuel plate without upgrading clutch



I really need this to be dependable, dont want to be stuck on the side of the road. I would like more power.



Should I just upgrade the clutch (sounds like a SB ) before I do any other upgrades?

I read about the TST kit, but then it sounds like if I put that in I'll likely smoke my clutch. .

but I haven't read ANYWHERE where somebody starts off with a clutch upgrade... Why

 

[Bob V]

The best upgrade I would recomend is the 3000 GSK (govener spring kit) and the #10 plate. The GSK will give you a wider power band. You can do this first and drive easy the clutch will last a LITTLE while, but you will need a clutch (13").

 

[barngal6]

Yeah, thats my point...



Everybody says "you'll need a bigger (better) clutch"



How come noone starts of with this?



Cause after gauges, I'm kinda thinking this should be my next expense,

since it is probably pretty costly, and I don't want to need the expense

"unexpectedly"



other than gauges,

all the other mods (ok, the basics, not he injectors, throttle bodies, turbos, etc)

seem relatively inexpensive...



but I'm thinking the clutch is pretty costly... but basically it will have to be done,

right?

 

[CCiatteo]

I have a 98 12v 5speed manual trans, 4x4 4. 10



I use it for towing, 10K max , don't see more than that in my future...



New to me, I think it is bone stock... I have a K&N FIPK air filter waiting to install...



Of course I want to do gauges, then?



I guess I am worried about doing a #10 fuel plate without upgrading clutch



I really need this to be dependable, dont want to be stuck on the side of the road. I would like more power.



Should I just upgrade the clutch (sounds like a SB ) before I do any other upgrades?

I read about the TST kit, but then it sounds like if I put that in I'll likely smoke my clutch. .

but I haven't read ANYWHERE where somebody starts off with a clutch upgrade... Why

I have 97 with 190k on it all stock except for air filter and exhaust. I find myself in the same exact position as you. I would like more power and the general consensus seems to be the 3gsk/10plate combo is the best bang for the buck and doesn't turn hurt the dependability/towing capcity (egt temps) of the truck. But everyone states that the clutch won't hold it for long or you gotta drive it easy or back the plate off some, which to me defeats the purpose of the putting the plate in. Not that I drag race the thing from every light, but if I gotta baby it constantly to preserve the clutch???



So I would agree with your thinking, do the clutch upgrade first. Then you can do what ever you like (with in reason I suppose) and you should be fine. I just can't bring myself to upgrade the clutch when the one in the truck is working just fine. So until my clutch or transmission needs to come out for service I'll stay with the stock setup.



It's really no different than the auto guys. The have the same limitations, if they start adding fuel, then the transmission upgrade soon follows.



Chris

 

[QWaller]

but I'm thinking the clutch is pretty costly... but basically it will have to be done,

right?[/QUOTE]



Yeah, this would be the reason for me. I put in the 10 plate and dialed it back to keep my clutch relatively safe until I can afford to get the proper clutch. I am guessing I need around $1300. It just depends on what the truck is for and how much used. I have a commuter ($3. 50/gal diesel makes a person take notice) and the truck is for weekend duties and projects. If daily driver I would have done a clutch long ago. Just depends on your particular position. If you have deep pockets just do it all. The 10 plate woke my truck up and made it more user friendly, just have to watch my foot.

 

[rsaderlund]

barngal,

watch the slipperey slope you are heading down. I was just going for guages and a "litte more power". It is addicting. . now my goal is 500 to the rear wheels. Good luck and enjoy the truck:-laf

 

[The patriot]

I'm pretty much in the same boat.

I have gauges, a BHAF, 370 injectors and I have the TST plate waiting on the shelf in the garage for 2 years now.

I'm thinking I should just drop in the cam plate so that I can "free up" the money for the cluch. :-laf

 

[The patriot]

Oh yea, I got a 98 12 valve 5 speed.

 

[Dave M]

I've had a #10 and 3K GSK on the bench for 2 years waiting to spring the $$ for a clutch. A few months ago the clutch got bad... . YIPEEE..... uh... I mean... . Bummer... . I had to tell my wife since we needed a new clutch a little (really a lot) extra would handle the 350 HP I've been waiting for.



Now I need to find time to do #10 and 3K GSK. I waited because of the expense for the clutch upgrade. I didn't want to burn up my old clutch with all that power.



Go for a new clutch first if you can handle the $$. Actually... I think gages should be first and then you have a baseline on before and after. Then the clutch... . SBC. . your choice of 13 inch varieties... . you can feel safer adding MORE POWER.



Oh. . Yeah... You might consider upgrading you transmission input shaft to 1 3/8 in (thats about $500 more $$$ to your mods... OUCH!!) and then get the 13 inch clutch with the bigger input shaft. Then if you decide to swap to a 6spd NV5600 your clutch is good to go. At least in theory but I haven't verified it. I'm thinking if I get BIG problems with my 5sp going to the 6 spd might be better than putting money into the 5spd. We all know about the 5th gear nut and it seems the next upgrade would be there... after all the power mods.

 

[BigPapa]

Of course doning the clutch first would be best. It's kinda like buying a truck. Your a lot better off to save up and pay cash but nobody wants to wait. The patriot's right, it's AMAZING how the power upgrades loosen the wallet for the clutch upgrades. :-laf



Scott

 

[JGK]

You'll be a lot happier building your "foundation" with a set of gauges and a clutch that can hold the power before uprating the engine much. You're "power house" will crumble if the foundation isn't there.



People don't do the clutch first basically due to impatience and funds. They want the power NOW and injectors and a GSK and so forth are a lot cheaper and more fun than a new clutch.



Depending on your power goals and the clutch you choose, consider the bigger input shaft, too.



-Jay

 

[zstroken]

Look at the CON OFE. It is a fantastic clutch will hold almost 500HP. Of course if you abuse it it may not. Very good streetability.

 

[Forrest Nearing]

are you going to be pulling trailers right off the bat? if no, slide the plate forward, then order a 4k GSK and gauges.



when the 4k and gauges go in, grind your plate.



if you slip the clutch, pull some plate out till it doesn't slip. drive and enjoy and plan on putting a clutch in before you add more power

 

[CTD12V]

However, the 4k GSK does require 60 lb valve springs too, right? Oh well, at least that way he can add an exhaust brake down the road . . .

 

[JDKammin]

clutch

Ideally, it would be wise to install the clutch before mods. This way, you will not get stranded somewhere if the clutch goes out early, because of the mods. I have a 96 4x4 with a 5 speed that has the #10 plate, 3k gov springs, AFE air filter and MBRP 4" exhaust system and still running origional clutch. I also added a boost gauge and pyrometer. I have had it slip twice in the two years and both times were when pulling a loaded gooseneck trailer. I did buy a Southbend double disc sprung hub setup with the bigger input shaft waiting to get installed. I am also going to install some ARP head studs, different turbo and ATS exhaust manifold, but only after the clutch is in the truck.

 

[Forrest Nearing]

well, a clutch doesn't just "go out"



if the clutch slips, get out of the throttle ASAP, pull some power out of the truck and it'll get you where you need to go.



no, you do not need 60lb valvesprings to run a 4k GSK, just don't wind it over ~3400rpm and you'll be fine. Honestly I've seen enough trucks turn 4000+ on a single turbo w/ stock valvesprings that I don't even think they're a necesity in that case, but I limit my trucks to 3400-3500 w/ single turbo and stock valvesprings. zero problems with over 100k miles on trucks with no fewer than 170k on them when I started beating on them

 

[CRWilliams]

I agree with Forrest. I drove mine with the clutch slipping for 1 1/2 years after I installed mu #10 plate, exhaust and intake. I just tried not to hammer it too hard in 4th or 5th. It did eventually get to the point that I could slip it in 3rd. That's when the clutch finally moved to the top of the priority list. There are some really good clutches out there that don't cost a ton though.

 

[barngal6]

OK, I'm back. Had to do my kdp and fix the vacpump/ps leak, fuel lines etc.



Now I have pyro/boost/fuel pressure gauges in the garage! Planning a middle of the dash, wedged towards windshield mount. I a collecting all the written info I can on the install... I like to find the tips that people mention that helped. Using Isspro EV mechanical gauges...



I also have a 3GSK/#11 fuel plate, medium AFC spring kit (that I picked up cheap but not even sure I should use it:-laf... )



I need new tires, so a new clutch/input shaft is not in the budget for now.



So I plan to install my gauges and see how things run. Move my stock plate forward a bit and maybe turn the star wheel a bit. Monitor a bit.

Then install a 4" turbo back/muffler exhaust (already have a bhaf) then monitor for a bit.



I was hoping the 3gsk with #11 plate would go easy on my clutch...

guess I'll see how it runs without the power upgrade to figure out if I can wait or not...



I want a QUIET exhaust, choices seem to be Diamond Eye, MSRB, magnaflow

best choice for me? (quiet... . )



thanks

 

[CCiatteo]

OK, I'm back. Had to do my kdp and fix the vacpump/ps leak, fuel lines etc.



Now I have pyro/boost/fuel pressure gauges in the garage! Planning a middle of the dash, wedged towards windshield mount. I a collecting all the written info I can on the install... I like to find the tips that people mention that helped. Using Isspro EV mechanical gauges...



I also have a 3GSK/#11 fuel plate, medium AFC spring kit (that I picked up cheap but not even sure I should use it:-laf... )



I need new tires, so a new clutch/input shaft is not in the budget for now.



So I plan to install my gauges and see how things run. Move my stock plate forward a bit and maybe turn the star wheel a bit. Monitor a bit.

Then install a 4" turbo back/muffler exhaust (already have a bhaf) then monitor for a bit.



I was hoping the 3gsk with #11 plate would go easy on my clutch...

guess I'll see how it runs without the power upgrade to figure out if I can wait or not...



I want a QUIET exhaust, choices seem to be Diamond Eye, MSRB, magnaflow

best choice for me? (quiet... . )



thanks

From my own experience (mods in sig) the #11 plate in the stock position has worked out just fine. I don't have the 3GSK yet, but do have the AFC spring kit. It has given me the power I was looking for, but hasn't caused clutch issues at all. Mileage is good as long as I keep my foot out of it and don't do 75 down the hwy. Last load of fuel was a stellar 22. 5 mpg, calculated by hand, but that's not something I can get on a regular basis. Normally, I am in the 18. 5-20 range and have plenty of power.



I'd install what you got and just go easy until you find a comfort level.



Chris

 

[MLee]

What about his Hydrolics, should'nt those be done to? at time of change?

Who is it that has the two piece Hydrolics for the clutch? I could use that info.