Here I am

Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Clutch slave and master cylinder replacement

Attention: TDR Forum Junkies
To the point: Click this link and check out the Front Page News story(ies) where we are tracking the introduction of the 2025 Ram HD trucks.

Thanks, TDR Staff

Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) P1693

Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) who has the Best VP44

Status
Not open for further replies.
What is the best way to bleed this system? I have a new slave and m/cylinder, using the old hydro tube. If I remove everything, can I bleed it all before putting back on the truck? If not, what is the best and easiest way to get this done? My old doesn't allow the truck to move until it is all the way out. The clutch is brand new and should have replaced all at once, but penny pinched. Thanks!
 
Without watching the vid I'll try to sun it up in a few words.

Assemble your master/slave/tube outside the truck. fill it with fluid and hold it all on grade with the reservoir at the top, slave rod at the bottom. Pump the slave slowly several times and watch the fluid level. Add fluid as needed to prevent it from going empty and pump until it maintains level. Install in truck.
 
Gary I just watched your video, and was wondering, some guys have installed bleeders on the slave. I thought that this was not possible. Is it? I had read of your procedure but the video was informative thanks for sharing.
 
MLee,



I'm not aware of adding a bleed screw or "vent" to an existing plastic slave cylinder.



I'm not taking credit for devising the procedure we show, but there it is and it works if your system is not compromised, eg: an internal check valve in the master that is bypassing or ANY leak that allows air to be sucked in as the slave cylinder expands. Internal check valve bypassing should show up as a backflush of fluid into the reservoir, fluid needs to go down, not up. Reservoir surface shoud be still not rippling during release stroke.



To me brake fluid is kinda nasty to handle and the less I get on me the better. I like the idea of putting the amount of fluid necessary to do the job into the system in steps and just getting the air bubbles to come out the top and then proving in your own hands that it is bled and if you try the procedure YOU WILL be able to tell when it does not have air in it.



I did the same procedure to an Elantra and it was bled before I could say Hyundai 10 times, kinda scarry.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top