Converting 1 ton to single wheel

[Gizmo 007]

I'd like to get some info on converting my 3500 into a single wheel (basically a 3/4 ton). I'm attendind college and living on campus, and parking is tight to say the least. Poor ol' blue is gonna lose a fender I'm afraid.



I need to know the main difference as far as the axle spacing front and rear. Is there longer studs and spacers for the dual wheels, or a completely different axle on the rear? And same thing for the front. Can I just change out studs and remove the spacers?



I'm also on the lookout for a used 3/4 ton bed. Anyone ever attempted this stunt before? Looking for any and all input.

 

[Batman]

There are those on the forum that want to convert their 2500 to DRW, may want to contact them.

I believe the 1 tons have Dana 80 while the 2500's have a different rear. Don't know if the lengths are the same or different. I would assume they are different as the drums stick out quite far on the duallies.

HTH,George

 

[jsimpson]

Why not just pull the outer wheels and fender extensions while you're in school and put 'em back on when you graduate?

 

[ReggieRam]

Also Interested

This is a good topic for me too. I may be moving from the wide open spaces of New Mexico to the ever-so-crowded land of Orange County, CA before too long. I've been spending quite a bit of time out there lately, and have noticed a couple of things: One being that people freak out when they see a giant duallie that sounds like it has an engine full of rocks driving around, and that all those little BMW's dive out of the way when you put on a turn signal. The second thing I've noticed is that they make parking spaces quite a bit smaller out there and give you less room to turn into them.



I started thinking about going to a single rear wheel when I saw a Powerjoke that was reduced to a single rear wheel, only wider like 10" front and back, and looked like it had custom rear fenders that were pulled in a bit from the regular duallie fenders. It actually looked pretty sharp, but I'm wondering if it's more trouble than it's worth.

 

[MUDDY]

just stick a flatbed on it. it would survive some pretty hard hits and those cars would give you extra room so they dont get their sides ripped open, and you wont worry about door dings on your bed.

 

[Bad340fish]

The Flatbed is a good idea... or you could just Make it taller



It would not be worht it IMO to change it over. I bet you could by a few dually fenders for the cost of the COMPLETE 2500 conversion

Clark

 

[Pit Bull]

Your only talking about 8 1/2 inches on each side. That won't make any real difference in parking, plus you will ruin the resale value of your truck and spend some additional bucks doing it. You would be better off trading it in on a 2500.

 

[CGoyette]

are y9ou taking medication???

What on earth would make a real truck owner want to trade dow to just another wimpy pick up..... manly men drive trucks with 4 feet of rubber in the back! Dullies forever!



Just get use to parking it ... . it really ain't bad once you get the feel of the rig.



Seriously just sell the truck or trade it to a 2500 owner who wants the 3500..... ask you might get a answer... .



But please don't do something as silly as making a 3500 a 2500 it dosent even sound fun

Curt

 

[Gizmo 007]

Here's the problem. You'd have to see the parking spaces around here to know what I mean. My inside tires cover BOTH stripes of the parking space AT THE SAME TIME. Not fun considering that the parking lot is full 99% of the time. And the streets around here are tough on a dually owners nerves. Again, the outside duals are riding both stripes.



I don't want to permanently swap out, just while I'm here at college. I want to keep all of my stuff so I can put it back. Probably won't work out like that though. Just have to put up with driving a land yaght in a small stream. But thanks for the replies and insight guys.



CGoyette, I agree completely with you, but certain conditions call for certain measures.

 

[MCummings]

Well, Here's my two bits.



Buy two new rims and tires for the rear ("regualr 8-lug rims, non dually),, they can be a little wide for a "Macho" or "Toughtruck" look. Take the 3500 Bed off, and try putting just a plain jane flatbed on the rear.



If you are willing to spend the money you can get a machine shop, or some shop of the like, that would put an aluminum flatbed, just bolted to the frame, and some wheel wells to clear the wheels.



Option #2, aka, The Temporary fix.



Put the 8-lug 2500 type wheels on the rear, remove the bed, and store it in a safe place, then have some custom wheel wells, and rear stoplights, turn signals mounted up. Leave the Frame, complete with Spare, Driveshaft, Fuel Tank, etc. showing. Like a cab and chassis. The fuel filler would also have to have a place to go.



I would leave the front-end alone.



What do you think??,, This would be a temporary fix.

You would need to check local laws to see if ya can do that, but I think it is possible.



MerrickNJr

 

[DDUNN]

I have a '99 QC 3500 I want to convert too. The front looks easy, remove the hub extension and put on stock 3/4T rims. Only concern is the brake calipers. Rear is a little different, the #80 rear end is wider and with stock 3/4T rims, the tires would extend outside the the fender wells by a couple of inches on each side ( on a conventional bed ). This may be ok for you, but I don't want any tickets . I have just started my search, and it is still rough around the edge, but I'll throw out my early guessaments. 8" rims with a 6"+/- backspacing should make the rear wheel spacing correct, but I'm not sure of any problems in the front with the calipers or hitting the frame on steering lock. Most wheels that I have found usually have a backspace equal to 1/2 the rim width. The extra 2" of backspacing should tuck the wheels and tires under the fender nicely and still look " right". Just need to find "off the shelf" rims and not have to have them custom made. I have thought of Hummer wheels, but can't find the actual bolt pattern and backspace. ( just a starting point )

As far as just buying a 3/4T truck and be done with it. Been there, done that ! The 1T has larger brakes ( learned that the scarely way). I don't need the larger GVW, but want to be able to stop.

 

[Pit Bull]

Have you looked into moving to a college with bigger streets and parking places?

Originally posted by Gizmo 007

I'd like to get some info on converting my 3500 into a single wheel (basically a 3/4 ton). I'm attendind college and living on campus, and parking is tight to say the least. Poor ol' blue is gonna lose a fender I'm afraid.



I need to know the main difference as far as the axle spacing front and rear. Is there longer studs and spacers for the dual wheels, or a completely different axle on the rear? And same thing for the front. Can I just change out studs and remove the spacers?



I'm also on the lookout for a used 3/4 ton bed. Anyone ever attempted this stunt before? Looking for any and all input.

 

[Patriot Diesel]

I'll throw this out there. I have a 2000 2500 that I have been considering a changeover to dually. Love the truck, would never want to trade it in. We have an 8000 lb 5th wheel. We are looking to go bigger; possibly 36-40' King of the Road, Travel Supreme, Alfa... etc... I would feel much better with a dually configuration. If anyone is interested in a swap; let me know; maybe we can work something out.

 

[GTX]

I might be interested in a swap also. My goose neck is about 12k loaded so a little extra stability would be nice.

 

[DieselB59]

Well, we tried at Auto Wurks Diesel earlier this year to convert our DRW racer to single wheel by ordering new axle shafts, hubs, drums, etc. All we ended up doing is returning it all to the dealer who lugged it all the way up to us. Regardless of what the dealer says, the axle assembly, housing and all, are different size for the 3500. So we kept the heavier housing and just found more ways to make it go that much faster.

 

[Bart]

I believe that the 3500 (Dana 80) is wider than the 2500 single or the 3500 single. The cheapest idea is to park it and buy some **** ant vehicle until you're out of college and scrap it and fire up the real truck.





98 Dodge Quad Cab SLT 3500 CTD 12v auto 4x4 3. 54 L. S. D #6 plate (to make it GO very fast with half the world in it's bed)

 

[Briar Hopper]

Bart has the right idea, buy a "beater" for $400-$800, it'll be cheaper than putting your wide-load baby on a diet.