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2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Cost of ball joint installation

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I was pricing the cost of having ball joints installed, (curious as this job seems to intimidate me).



Dodge dealer quoted $1,600. 00 for all four. :confused:



NO WAY will I pay this month for $275. 00 can purchase all four ball joints.



Anyone else had theirs done and how did much $$$ did it cost.
 
I got mine done at a pretty small local shop for about $600. Places like Firestone and Midas wanted about that much just for 2! I recommend looking in the yellow pages and just start calling people. Good luck.
 
BTW, I had my own parts, but they wouldn't use them. Warranty issue, I'm sure. So that price included the ball joints.
 
JKaptchinskie said:
I was pricing the cost of having ball joints installed, (curious as this job seems to intimidate me).



Dodge dealer quoted $1,600. 00 for all four. :confused:



NO WAY will I pay this month for $275. 00 can purchase all four ball joints.



Anyone else had theirs done and how did much $$$ did it cost.



$1600 sounds high but is possible depending on the hourly shop rate and the time quoted to do the job. Plus I'm sure that the parts are more expensive thru them also.



Ask them what the labor rate is and how many hours they are charging!

Where I live labor is approx $70~80



I do my own work and I can tell you that it will take approx 10+- hours (steady work) to replace them. The axles need to be removed and this would be a good time to check & install new ujoints and brake pads if needed.
 
I was of the same mind and actually ordered the ball joint kit from Quad4x4 for my '00. A buddy of mine suggested that I take it to a shop because his truck was such a PITA - destroyed the unit bearings removing them from the knuckles and had torch the ball joints out. The unit bearings & ball joints rusted in place. My buddy & his dad have a full shop - fork lift, lathe, mill, etc & race a diesel powered Toyota P/U at Bonneville & El Mirage. I should have listened to him in the first place.....



Long story short - I very quickly realized that I was not going to get the unit bearings off w/o destroying them so I took the truck to my local Les Schwab. They had two guys working on the truck ALL day and had to destroy one unit bearing in the process. I ended up with two new unit bearings (my cost) & new ball joints for ~$1200 and consider money well spent. There is no way I could have done the job myself given the circumstances.



Brian
 
GOlsen said:
I got mine done at a pretty small local shop for about $600. Places like Firestone and Midas wanted about that much just for 2! I recommend looking in the yellow pages and just start calling people. Good luck.



What ball joints did you get??? My buddy used to be a f/t mechanic and now works on the side at his home. I had him do mine and NAPA joints were $305. I guess I didn't check to see if he marked them up (usually he gives me parts at COST) but 10 hrs labor at $42/hr is a bargain in my book and I paid a total of $725 all 4 out the door. I guess I'm just amazed any one could do it cheaper...
 
I thought that they were Moog joints. I could be wrong. It was a little while ago. When I originally bought joints from Advance Auto, I want to say they were only about $120 a pair. Not real sure of the quality though.
 
Whoa I'm glad I do 99% of my own work... I'd NEVER be able to afford those rates!





Spicer balljoints at 6 States are $60 a side a year ago. I doubt they have gone up too much.



If the truck has alot of miles, I'd also replace the housing seals. I didn't when I replaced my balljoints, and one of them started to leak... so the whole thing had to come apart again. :eek:



J. K, where do you live. I'll give you a helping hand if you want. Swing by down to my place and we could hammer it out in a day if you want to learn/help. $$ donation appreicated... as well as beer/pizza :D
 
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SMorneau said:
Quad 4x4 has a video available and also kits that include the necessary parts and tools. The video is pretty good.





I agree the video is good but it just doesn't do justice to how badly seized in the "bores" the unit bearings and/or ball joints can be.



Any body interested in buying the Quad4x4 kit from me? I used the tools and 1 cotter pin.



Brian
 
I did mine two months ago. 5. 5 hours on the right side first, and 2. 5 hours on the left side second. I used a torch to cut off the whole steering knucle in the old ball joints, and then took the whole knuckle to the press and gently pressed out the bearing. It needed 10tons of force to let go. After that I used the torch to cut a groove in the old joints from the innside to let off pressure. Then I could use a hammer to knock them out. Covered the new one in anti-seize and used a big hammer and a well sized socket to knock in the new ball joints. Worked very well for me and a lot of money saved from letting a shop butcher my wheel bearings.
 
I really should replace my ball joints on the 01. 5. My truck has never seen salt in it's life. I assume that will be to my advantage. Who else has changed ball joints on a "salt free" truck and how did the job go?



Steve Keim
 
i work part-time for a small dealership that sells a ton of CTD pickups. all i do is ball joints & tie rods (seems like thats all), anyway ONLY install moog ball joints. have done napa,spicer,and mopar ball joints and had to replace them also. can do both sides in 3 hrs. latly had 03 and up trucks with 35 to 60 thousand miles on them and the ball joints were shot. moog has normal lowers but adjustable uppers for these trucks. was putting the adjustables uppers in (about $100. 00 each) moog has no non-adjustable ones for 03 and up trucks. did some measuring and now put 98. 5 to 02 uppers in the 03 and up trucks now.



scot
 
There are a lot of varyables , the bigger the jobs the more varyables , like some have said , axial u-joints , tie rod ends , a lot of other front end parts , most shops [ because of lawyers ] will not go into a job with out everthing they have to R&R being in good condition when the job is done .
That being said , even as a repair shop , I consider the dealers more often then not the highest priced , but it I were in there place [ all there costs being higher ] there out the door price has to be higher , thats way independant shops have work , they have opptions to cut some of those costs .
You also have to consider the right tools for the job [ the torch is the last tool -when all esl fails , depending how much heat is used , changing temper of steel , making the parts more likly to rust ] .
Then the right tools cost , they may make the job quicker , and that should not mean that the costumer is going to get all of the time savings of that new tool [ it has to get paid for ] , each shop is going to decide where they can pass on the costs/savings , and still stay in buis.
Then to answer the ??? , just ball joints , $600-800 , but then I am going to put adjustible in mine , then a costume allinement .
Havent checked in some time , but labor rates around here are about $75 - 110 hr. , I always figured that in the middle + is were the best work is going to be getting done .
I'm now out of the buis. because all the costs are getting out of control and I do not want to play all the games anymore [ fighting with most every supplyer , and if you do not win you end up fighting with the costumer , and how can you maintain a buis. if there is a high % of costumers that think , rightly or not , that they are getting , bleeped ,.
 
parts (Moogs) + labor at about 600 bucks :)

And I would've done it myself, if I'd had the time (done them on buddies' trucks and on the Jeeps). Just make sure you have the right tools ;)
 
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