Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) damper removal

[WilkinsJ]

I'm doing the KDP fix on my 96 5 spd, and the engine is rotating as I try and loosen the damper bolts.



The trans is in first and the e-brake is on. But the engine still wants to rotate. I haven't rotated the engine over completely, however.



Is this engine going to try and start if I keep rotating it? The key is in the "off" position and the batteries are disconnected.



I don't want to get driven through my garage wall if this thing lites off.



Any thoughts?

 

[GOlsen]

It shouldn't start. I got lucky with mine. I needed to replace the radiator, so I was able to get an impact wrench on them.

 

[tp0d]

Nope, wont start unless your shutdown solenoid is sticking in the up position, which then you would have a problem shutting it down normally. The shutdown solenoid kills all fuel to the inj pump.



There is an engine barring tool that interfaces to the flywheel, which can be used to either turn over the engine, or hold it in place. Not sure of a part number, but a search here should turn up something. .



good luck



-j

 

[WilkinsJ]

engine barring tool? is there an access hole to get to the flywheel?

 

[AWray]

There is a plastic plug on the passenger side. Some are removed easily, others almost need a torch. The barring tool can be purchased from Snap-On, a Cummins distributor, Miller Tool or a Dodge dealer. They cost about $35.



Insert the barring tool, a 3/8 universal, and several extensions and you can rotate the engine from above. If you are below the truck, skip the extensions. All you need is the 3/8 rachet.

 

[Highfinance97]

engine barring tool?

here is the tool from snap on Barring tool





michael

 

[hsmith]

What would it sound like if it was possible for it to start CCW? Just kidding, don't think it would happen anyway.

 

[JFaughn]

Drop the the dust cover on the bottom of the bell housing , use a long 3 ft prybar to lock the teeth of the flywheel to bell housing , to keep from turning , both for losening the bolt & tightening .

 

[Flinty]

I rotated the engine so the cps notch on the balancer was at 7-8 o'clock. Then I enguaged the slightly bent end of a 18"-20" prybar in the notch vertically with a floor jack under the curled end of the prybar to give just the right amount of uplift on the balancer. I'd say I applied enough pressure with the jack to almost rotate the engine. The nut came right off no problem. Installation is a reverseal of disassembly with the notch in the 4-5 o'clock position. It took some head scratching to figure this out but I couldn't bring myself to buy a one time use tool. Luck. J.

 

[Signal73]

you probably need at least 300 rpms to start the truck so dont worry about it especially with how slow the barring tool turns.

 

[DamonL]

Place it in 5th gear and you should be able to take off the bolts without the engine turning.

 

[Scrappy]

Place it in 5th gear and you should be able to take off the bolts without the engine turning.

Agreed!!!!

 

[Dave M]

I rotated the engine so the cps notch on the balancer was at 7-8 o'clock. Then I enguaged the slightly bent end of a 18"-20" prybar in the notch vertically with a floor jack under the curled end of the prybar to give just the right amount of uplift on the balancer. I'd say I applied enough pressure with the jack to almost rotate the engine. The nut came right off no problem. Installation is a reverseal of disassembly with the notch in the 4-5 o'clock position. It took some head scratching to figure this out but I couldn't bring myself to buy a one time use tool. Luck. J.

I did a similar thing. I wedged a bar or screw driver or someting (Its been about 3 years ago now and I forget) between the notch on the balancer and the frame or tie rod. It took a few trys to get it to stay and then I got the bolts off. I just kept looking for something to wedge against and a bar long enough till it worked. It was very frustrating though because it kept slipping off. I like the idea about wedging between bellhousing and flywheel. . Using the floor jack to wedge against is a good idea too. I never thought of that.

 

[Highfinance97]

especially with how slow the barring tool turns.

Reeeaaal slow :-laf

Place it in 5th gear and you should be able to take off the bolts without the engine turning

Ditto





Michael

 

[WilkinsJ]

thanks, all. I wound up just giving the ratchet a couple of good wacks with my 3lb sledge and the bolts loosened up nicely.



One issue I stumbled on was that the instructions from the TST website do not mention marking the damper so it goes back on the crank in the same orientation that it originally had. I only saw this admonition in the Haynes manual, while looking for guidance in removing the damper. I'm not tech by any stretch (not by ANY stretch!) but getting the damper back on the way it came off seems to be a very important point. I find it hard to believe TST left that detail out.

 

[Scrappy]

mine had an alignment dowel and can only go back on one way. I would think yours is the same.

 

[Vaughn MacKenzie]

thanks, all. I wound up just giving the ratchet a couple of good wacks with my 3lb sledge and the bolts loosened up nicely.



One issue I stumbled on was that the instructions from the TST website do not mention marking the damper so it goes back on the crank in the same orientation that it originally had. I only saw this admonition in the Haynes manual, while looking for guidance in removing the damper. I'm not tech by any stretch (not by ANY stretch!) but getting the damper back on the way it came off seems to be a very important point. I find it hard to believe TST left that detail out.

Crank damper position doesn't matter, that's why it's not in the TST instructions. The crank is internally ballanced. The only time it would matter is if you'd marked TDC on it, then it would be nice to put it back on the same position.



When reinstalling, you can counter engine rotation by using a socket on the alternator pulley with your ratchet in the "loosen" position.



Vaughn