Dana 80 Ugly Oil

[Gary - K7GLD]

... I should have included in earlier post, the differential lube that has worked best for ME, is (gasp!) the OEM stuff at local Dodge dealer. In my case, there is noticeable LSD action in sharp turns in dirt or gravel, but nothing noticeable on dry pavement. In snow or icy conditions, BOTH rear wheels spin freely under power. Unfortunately, mine is a California truck, bought as a RV puller in fair weather, so no 4 wheel drive - makes the truck totally worthless in most eastern Oregon winters... AHHHhh, but the 27mpg traveling empty, and 17mpg towing 5er in good weather is sure nice and easy to take - especially now that diesel fuel is well over $5 a gallon locally...

 

[Shelby Griggs]

Put about 1200 miles on the rebuilt rear axle last week. Rear axle has definitely lost the howl at 45 MPH that was there for the last 100K since the last shop rebuilt it. Going to dump the oil this week and run another "flush" fill for maybe 3-5k and then put the Schafers 75-140 in, maybe add a new differential cover at that time Witing for Banks to release their new cover for the Dana 80.

I still have a speed related vibration, so it isn't the drive line (new carrier and new U joints) and it isn't in the rear axle. It also shouldn't be the tires, two sets of tires and both rod force and balance beads tried.

I need new control arm bushings or maybe all new arms, thinking those could be amplifying pavement imperfections and small tire imbalances to the body? Rather the control arms are contributing or not, they need fixed, so next task. I can feel the front axle move when backing up and touching the brakes. The kicker is those bushings were upgraded to Synergy poly bushings in last 20K, so not happy with the life, probably going to go with Carli or Thuren new control arms as soon as I can afford it. Unfortunately most of the expensive quality control arms seems to still use the caster cams instead of an adjustable length control arm which seems a bit odd given the price point and the weak caster adjustment from the factory.

Heading out on a OR, NV, CA tour end of week towing camper, be on the road till end of April so hopefully nothing else needs immediate attention as my wallet is a little thin after the rear axle rebuild!

 

[Gary - K7GLD]

Earlier on, when testing different differential lubes, I got tired of the slooooow draining of lube, so drilled and tapped rear cover for a drain plug - things went lots faster then...

 

[Shelby Griggs]

Gary, that works, although you do leave some oil in that sump, no matter what kind of drain you have on the cover. I currently have a Mag Hytech cover and it has a drain, BUT also leaves probably 1/4 cup in the sump along with the dregs. I have thought about drilling the bottom of the housing so it all drains.

 

[Gary - K7GLD]

Yeah, I considered drilling the bottom housing to get ALL the lube out - but didn't like the idea of drilling and threading debris inside the housing. Too bad Dodge didn't provide a better drain location, since the LSD really could use relatively frequent changing...

 

[Cummins12V98]

Earlier on, when testing different differential lubes, I got tired of the slooooow draining of lube, so drilled and tapped rear cover for a drain plug - things went lots faster then...

View attachment 133207

Not sure the logic here. Simply have a catch pan under neath and remove the bolts and hit it with a dead blow if needed. I always mop up all the GL I can. Clean diff, cover and 1/8" diameter of the right stuff all around cover plus around holes. Never a leak.

 

[Gary - K7GLD]

Not sure the logic here. Simply have a catch pan under neath and remove the bolts and hit it with a dead blow if needed. I always mop up all the GL I can. Clean diff, cover and 1/8" diameter of the right stuff all around cover plus around holes. Never a leak.

To each his own - you have yours, I have mine..

 

[Ozymandias]

Not sure the logic here. Simply have a catch pan under neath and remove the bolts and hit it with a dead blow if needed. I always mop up all the GL I can. Clean diff, cover and 1/8" diameter of the right stuff all around cover plus around holes. Never a leak.

Buy a reusable gasket, it is SO MUCH better then sealant.

 

[Ozymandias]

Yeah, I considered drilling the bottom housing to get ALL the lube out - but didn't like the idea of drilling and threading debris inside the housing. Too bad Dodge didn't provide a better drain location, since the LSD really could use relatively frequent changing...

No big deal, I did that on my Grand Cherokee years ago. Only make sure to have drill and tap that is suitable for cast iron.

 

[Cummins12V98]

No big deal, I did that on my Grand Cherokee years ago. Only make sure to have drill and tap that is suitable for cast iron.[/

 

[Cummins12V98]

Buy a reusable gasket, it is SO MUCH better then sealant.

For a Dana 70 or 80?

 

[NIsaacs]

For a Dana 70 or 80?

Either or, they are spendy. Note, when you scroll down the page a bit, you will see a list of them.

https://torqueking.com/product/42031/qu42031-dana-80-reusable-diff-cover-gasket/

 

[Cummins12V98]

I had no idea! Looks like a flat gasket so I wonder how Well it works? On my 15 the re usable has never leaked a drop.

 

[Ozymandias]

Works perfectly, I've put two of these into my buddies '98.