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Dodge Problems-Some observations

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ETC/Auto VRS ETH/DEE

First Oil Change- A new Twist!

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One thing that seems to be generating confusion about the Allison automatics:

The 1000 (there is no "T" - GM's trademark name is "1000 Series") was brand new last year. The transmissions that have been used in medium trucks prior are the AT545 and the MT653. Neither of the older units have a Park position; the 1000 does. Cummins even introduced a new rating of the ISB specifically to use with the 1000 last year for the RV market.

The official spec sheet is a pdf and can be grabbed from Allison's website at this address: http://www.allisontransmission.com/documents/product/publications/pubs/SA3361EN.pdf
 
I have been driving Chevy 4wd trucks, blazers, & suburban since 1973, & still own the '83 sub. 6. 2 diesel 4wd and a '96 Blazer, along with my 98. 5 Ram 2500 quad cab 4wd. Until chevy went with independent front suspension, they wandared all over the road, much worse than the Dodge. However, I will not buy another Chevy and want to exchange my Blazer for a Dodge because they did away with the tight turning radius when they did away with the straight axle. My Ram will turn a tighter circle than the s10 Blazer. I test drove Chevy 3/4 ton 4x4 before buying the Dodge and they were worse.

Besides all of that, the Dodge has been in the shop about 1/10th the amount of time each of my new Chevy's spent in the shop during the first 3 years.

My Ram had steering problems and brake pulling problems. However I finally had my tires checked at the tire store and found the beginning of tread separation. A new set of Michelins fixed all of that.

For those in the Dallas area looking for good service, try Bonham Chrysler in Bonham Tx. I worked a phone deal, drove there, picked out my truck. I tried getting good service in Dallas, ended up at Bonham and got outstanding service.
 
If you really don't like it, and wish you had something else. Then jump over the fence and hope the grass is the same color when you get there.

nuf said
 
For those of us that have the steering problem, it is a serious issue. My truck steering sucks and I have spent over $500. 00 out of my pocket trying to fix my 2001 steering. It must be an issue because so many people are complaining about it. Hey DC pull your head out and help us. Do I hear a class action lawsuit against DC. Any comments for or against or any ideas.
 
Going back to the steering problem we started with, My 2001 4WD wandered all over the road when I first got it and has been improving since mile one. Don't know why, but it is much better now. At present it has 4000 miles on it.

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2001 Ram 3500 dually, 4:10, auto, SLT+,anti-spin,custom side paint, Custom pin striping,Advanced Thermal Products Sound Blanket Kit, Smittybar nerf step,Geno's stainless wheel well trim, tonneau cover, air dam, chrome monster tip, mud flaps/chrome tips,pyro-trans-boost gauges, Bosch 275 Injectors, Van Aaken.
 
In regards to the steering problems, I found the following very interesting...

The full text and the rest of the thread can be had at this link
http://x52. deja.com/[ST_rn=ps]/getdoc. xp?AN=584018553&CONTEXT=963611422. 348782594&hi tnum=5[/URL]

QUOTE FOLLOWS

Alignment programs (and service manuals I believe), give a wide acceptable range for front caster on the 4x4 Rams. I believe the range is 2 degrees to 5 degrees (if that's not correct, it's pretty close). The problem occurs when the alignment tech (independent or dealer) tells you that the measurements
"checked out fine", just because they were in this broad range of acceptance. Caster readings that fall on either end of the scale are subject to caster shimmy, even though they are "acceptable". I had to align some 30 trucks and attend a 9 hour "Dodge Ram Chassis Dynamics Diagnostics" training session (fancy name, ehh?), before finding out that 3 degrees to 4 degrees is the optimal caster setting for 4x4 Rams that eliminates caster shimmy. Below I will post what specifications I set Ram trucks to. First I want to give a little more info on correct Ram alignments so you can see if you had a job well done, The eccentrics on the lower control arms ARE NOT for individual wheel caster adjustments (even
though our alignment machine says they are). The eccentric sleeves in the upper ball joints ARE NOT for adjusting individual camber and total cross caster (difference in caster between two front wheels). This is why replacement eccentrics are positionable in eight different ways. Once camber and cross caster are attained with the eccentrics, the lower control arm eccentrics are then used to swing the caster readings into specifications. The two eccentrics must be swung in the SAME direction in EQUAL amounts. If they are not, it will create a setback condition (one front wheel further forward than the other).
FYI - Comparing between the two front wheels, caster will cause a pull to the smaller value and camber will cause a pull to the larger value. A truck set up with caster pulling in one direction and camber pulling in the other direction, can lead to a wandering truck; even though it is "in specifications"!!!!!!
If the eccentrics on the lower control arms of your truck are not pointing the same direction, the alignment was done incorrectly and the axle was "twisted" or "forced" into position to attain the acceptable values (seen them from the factory this way, go figure). A correct alignment will set the truck up with a slight negative cross caster (truck has slight pull to left) to compensate for right hand road crown. Camber will be equal side to side slightly on the negative side. This will help maintain acceptable camber when hauling heavy loads, as the truck tends to lift in the front when towing. Camber will then fall slightly positive when towing.
Just because the alignment shop says "it's in specifications", that does not mean it is set up for proper performance and handling!!!!!!!

Specifications (my personal settings for every Ram I align): all specs below are in degrees.


Left Wheel , Right Wheel

Caster 3. 2 , 3. 5
Cross Caster -. 3

Camber -. 10 , -. 10
Cross Camber 0. 0

Toe - standard specs, (maybe a little out if you tow a lot, they will pull in as the front end lifts up).

Brent
ASE Certified
Gold Certified Chrysler tech

[This message has been edited by Rebel (edited 08-30-2000). ]

[This message has been edited by Rebel (edited 08-30-2000). ]
 
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REBEL, I wish you could set my truck up!! When I asked my dealer about checking the alignment on my truck the "tech" said that the caster angles were not adjustable on the RAMS. I didn't question him there but it stuck in my mind as something to find out because it sounded fishy to me.
 
Sorry to hear that so many of you are having steering problems. I'm on my third truck of this body style, 2 3/4 ton and this one-ton, since 1995. My total amount of warrenty claims is 3(all trucks combined). This is my third cummins powered truck the other was a V-10. All have been great trucks, no breakdowns and basicly no complaints. I totally disagree with the statement that cummins carrys Dodge, All of my Dodge pickups from 1968, 1974, 75, 87,92 and the new ones have all been very good quality, that why I keep buying them! Some of us remember when owning a Dodge wasn't fashionable, sort of like Harleys use to be, now everybody wants one. Lord help some of these new guys if they actually would have to kick start one. Give your truck a chance and I'll bet you won't be disappointed #ad


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2001 3500 ETH/DEE, Black and loaded, chief transportation for two hayburners.
 
DUNE RACER, Sorry but I'm not an alignment tech (A&P Mech). Just stumbled across that thread one day and saved it for a rainy day. I've never had any problems with the steering on my '97 Ram. You might try going someplace else besides the dealer... in a past life (many years ago) I worked a dealership for a short time, its not the best place (IMHO) to have your pride and joy worked on.
At any rate the author of the thread (Brent) seemed to be very Knowledgeable on the subject, has the proper background and I thought made some good points. Sorry the ULR does't work.
 
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