DTT transmission installed

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New transmission is installed yahoooooo!!!! Ok few questions for you folks that have the 91% TC. Before when I had the stock transmission when I switched from Fwd gear to Rev gear it would stall. Bill K. did tell me that his TC was gonna make the stalling issue worse and said to get it checked out. But guess what, I havent had time yet. So now I see what Bill is talking about. The TC is tighter and engages alot harder than the stock. It rocks the whole truck. Bill said my idle in drive is too low 650-675. He said it should be 750-800rpm. Has anybody had any problems like this and what have you done about it. I heard a relash but not sure. What does that cost. Any ideas I would like to hear.
 
I have the 91%

The transmission is a different animal now, You just can't slam it from reverse to forward or forward to reverse, you have to take you time, stop at neutral for a second before you shift into gear.
 
Hey Puffin, I can't help with your questions, but I am glad that you are happy with your new transmission. I would advise you to check the idle speed with a timing light though, the tach's on our trucks are notoriously wrong. The Snap-On or similar scanners that take the idle from the ECM are also a great way to see what it actually is. Good luck with your transmission, Hope this helps.
 
I drove it like 50 miles last night and when i got home I kept switching the gears last night and it seemed to stop stalling. But still a tight engagement but feels more normal now. I was giving it time before when I had like under 10 miles on the transmission. Rev was the hardest. Had the hood up and when I put it in rev and stalled I thought the cummins was gonna start spinning under the hood. Literally would twist the truck. :eek:



Gonna do the pressure checks today.



Hey if any of you alaska guys are installing a new transmission or wanna check your trans pressures let me know and I will bring my new MAC trans pressure kit that I bought this week. New tools are like new toys to me. :D
 
Hey Puffin,



Just curious, as are all my other posts, as I don't own a CTD... yet. But, have you put your truck on a dyno at all? I'm looking at working my way into buying an early 2001, QC, SWB, auto, that's stock right now. It will have about 70,000 miles on it when I get the chance to buy it. Yours with the DD2's, Edge Comp box, and DTT transmission stuff is identical to what I want to do... not sure what DTT stuff to save up for though. Why'd you go with the 91% T/C? Did you just buy a whole transmission from them, or just put on the T/C and a VB? Curious minds want to know. :)



Thanks, Josh.



EDIT: Ok, missed the signature the first time, now I see that you have the T/C and VB... ignore those questions.
 
stalling

Puffin Smoke,

I must be one of the lucky ones because I have never had the stalling issues that othes seem to have. Even after I went to bigger injectors, I still have never had it stall. It does shift into gear pretty hard, but you'll get used to it. Plus it is kind of imtimidating(?) I think.

Didn't you have some gauges to install also? What are your tanny temps like?



Ted
 
My truck did the same thing,get the reflash,it will bring the idle up a tad,the downside is it will go into gear even harder than it does now. It will be real hard to stop it too,it just wants to go with the tight TC,and hi idle reflash. .
 
Idle is better now. . think it needed to fuzz of or something. . doesnt stall now. But i gotta tear the transmission back out tomorow. TC was leaking like a sive today and drained majority of the oil out all over the truck and ground when its in gear. Called Bill K. and he says that i damaged the pump seal. I was careful but I dont know. Stephan said its a common thing. I waited today at the auto craft shop on base for 6hrs to get a dam bay. Im first on the list to get the bay tommorow. hopefully I can get it in and out in 9hrs by myself because the craft shop isnt open mon-weds. This really killed my moral for the weekend.



Snowracer I bought the full transmission from bill. The decided the 91% because of my elevation here and I think because also the kind of turbo i plan on purchasing. Havent dynoed because they dont have one here in alaska that i know of.
 
Transmissions

I just got through installing my transmission for

the second time last night. When I rebuilt it I

cut a seal ring so I had to pull it back out to

replace the seal ring so I know how you feel. It

was one of those weeks when things just wouldn't

go right. After figuring out what was wrong and

starting to pull the transmission the hydraulic pump on

my transmission jack decided it had had enough so then I

had to go borrow another jack from a friend. It

was just one of those kinds of weeks.
 
Hey Snowman. Yes I did my own install. Had to take it back out today. TC was leaking like a Sive. Investigation found out that the seal some how welded itself to the TC and started spinning. Dunno what happen but its just been one of those weekends. I got Speedo checking it out for me. He's been a big help!



Your question about the update kit and which one. Im not sure, didnt know there was more than one. Im not to familiar with it. But sure did learn alot doing this install this weekend. Actually twice by the end of this next comming week.
 
In almost 20k miles with my DTT set-up, I have had just one instance of stalling; the best way to prevent this is being considerate when switching between Drive and Reverse and since then no further occurences.



Apart from anything else, you won't or shouldn't then have to explain how you stalled an automatic ;)
 
91% and no jolts...

I have about 800 miles on my new trans and it's doing fine. Never had it stall out or shift overly hard. It does however shift firmly into reverse, but does not jolt or lurch.



I've had it jump 200 rpm for no reason when crusing at 70 with the Cruise on. Found out it was the TPS again, but I didn't recognize it. It felt completely different with the new transmission.



Going to install a noise filter on the TPS line and clean it out again.



Glad you got it working OK.



Now you need a 3k Gov. Spring Kit and you'll be sitting real nice. I've said this before... If someone installed a set in your truck at no charge and let you drive it for a week and you will gladly pay to NOT have them removed at the end of the week.
 
Had to pull the transmission back out Sunday. TC was leaking like a sive. Something happened to make it weld right to the TC. Speedo is looking into it for me. He's gonna have to take my old pump and put it in the new transmission since it spun the seal inside. Not quite sure what happened but I think after a few measurements we will find out though.
 
Hey ben how much for the govenor spring and what does it actually do. Im thinking about getting the update for my Comp box so it does not defuel.
 
not an expert here, but...

The spring kit sell for around $125 through Piers. TST also sells them - price ?.



The whole idea is ultimately based on defueling.



Their are 2 flyweights, each on opposite sides of the center shaft inside your govenor housing. The fly weights are "governed" by the strength of the springs that are attached to each of them. The stronger the springs, the more centrifical force that is needed before they allow the fly weights to expand outward and begin defueling. This relates to the top right end of your torque curve. The more pedal you give it beyond a certain rpm, the more the govenor opens up and begins working against you. You give it more and more fuel, it opens up wider and wider and "over rides" you.





Stock springs are softer, "squishier" - allowing the fly weights to open sooner - around 2500 rpm. 3,000 rpm Gov. Springs are stronger and don't allow the fly weights on the govenor to open until later- say +/- 2800 to 3000 rpm. Again, I'm no expert here, but this is the general idea.



I think of it like a horse with hobbles vs one without. It doesn't hurt anything to lose the hobbles and allow the engine to run more freely.



I'm told that these engines are balanced to around 4400 rmp. 3000 rmp is well within safe operating specs.



Spring Kits are only for 12 valvers that have P7100 pumps and mechanical pump adjustments - like torque plates and AFC adjustment wheels.



I don't think they work on 24 valve motors because they are electronically controlled. This being the case, your Comp Box might be doing the same thing - only electronically rather than mechanically.



I can't see your signature to tell whether your a 12 or 24.



Anybody else got something to add?
 
Well got the transmission back tonight from Speedo. He replaced the Pump bushing and seal for me. I can't quite figure out why it did that but hopefully all go's well when I start to install it thursday night. :rolleyes:
 
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